The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop V-8 Engine Mounting Options

Just found a good 350 block to replace the tired 265 that the previous owner installed in my 59 3E tow truck back in the late sixties. The 265 is mounted to the front cross member as original v-8’s were installed in 59. I’ve seen kits that mount V-8’s from the sides as later models are mounted. Do any of you know if there is an advantage in mounting from the sides versus mounting from the front?

Unless you're going to also change the bellhousing and fabricate a rear crossmember for the transmission tailshaft housing, don't mess with success- - - -that 4-point mount setup at the front of the engine and the bellhousing has worked for decades. The engineers who designed it didn't fall off a turnip truck from Podunk USA!
Jerry

There is no advantage if you are using the original bellhousing mounts. If you were converting to an automatic transmission that uses a rear mount, the center mount configuration would be recommended. Many 350 engines have the front mount locations drilled and tapped to use the early configuration. Replacement crate engines are also set up for the front mounts.
Fred

In some situations the brackets for the original "bird leg" mounts will need to be notched for harmonic balancer clearance. The original 265/283/307 6" diameter balancer will fit the 350 crankshaft snout, but the timing mark that is secured by a couple of timing cover bolts at about the 2:00 position will also need to be used with that balancer.
Jerry

Thanks Jerry I’ll keep the front mounts, and notch brackets for harmonic if needed.

Wish we could say the same for some of the engineers of present day vehicles. LOL

Fred, It took me awhile to find a standard bore 350 block from the early 70’s so I would have the tapped holes in the front for the front mount. Thanks for your reply.Andy.

The bosses for those threaded holes are still there on the newer blocks- - - - -just be sure to use a floor-mount drill press to be sure you get the 5/16" diameter holes drilled square with the block before using a 3/8-16 tap to thread the holes. One hole on the passenger's side needs to go all the way through to the fuel pump pushrod bore- - - -putting a long bolt into that hole during a fuel pump change keeps the pushrod from falling out. Just be sure to put the short bolt back into that hole before starting the engine!
Jerry

Newbie here...I have a question about this swap, should I start a new thread or ask? Here go's...I'm gonna do the same swap. If I use the front mount, is the length of the v-8 comparible to the straight 6? I'm wondering when I put the compound 4-speed and motor in, will the tranny shifter be close to the hole in the cab floor? 52 ton and a half. Thanks and let me know about a new thread....Elmer T.

Yes, a new thread would be a good idea. There is a way to make the trans fit the floorboard exactly, but it involves a crossmember and bell housing change.
Jerry

Thank you Jerry. And thank you for the info. I'm sure I can figure it out with a little help from my friends.....Elmer T