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Mod | | Forums66 Topics126,777 Posts1,039,270 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 57 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 57 | I have a 54 3600, and I'm Changing over to a 12v system with a 383. It currently has the Air Flow Heater that attaches to the passenger side wall. I need to upgrade to a 12v system but I'm wondering if there are any heating systems that could go in that wouldn't require the hoses to go through the firewall? I really like the look of a clean firewall and I have been working to relocate as much as I can going through in the stock holes, but I'm getting stumped on a heater system.
Open to options, advice, and ideas. Thanks | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 | I had a Vintage Air heater under the seat that worked really good, to good in fact. I had to run with cowl vent open to regulate the temperature. Hose came in from bottom of truck. | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | 12 volt heater motors are readily available.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 57 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2019 Posts: 57 | That's certainly a cheaper option worth looking at. Likely the easiest too at this point. | | | | Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 107 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 107 | FWIW, I have a stock heater in my '53 3600. I installed a 12v motor, sourced I believe from Classic Parts (formerly Chevy Duty). I am not terribly satisfied with the airflow out of the heater. It does warm the cab, but it is very weak blowing air to the windshield for defrost. I would love to have a motor that blows twice as hard. My truck is a year-round work truck, and it can get pretty cold here in west-central Michigan. | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 2,832 | Also like a clean firewall which can be done by routing hoses to come out just above the right kick panel. In Texas a/c is more important than heat so we run all four hoses this way if cost is not a factor. It is $$$ and glove box is cut down in size. A less bite on the billfold is to use an Old Air Products style heater motor hole block off plate that has 4 bulkhead fittings for the hoses (or just 2 for heater only). We use a heat/cool unit but hoses can run to any heater. [img]https://i.postimg.cc/LJydwm7q/dan-s-49-011.jpg[/img]
Evan
| | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 186 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 186 | Tyler Watts, putting a 12 v motor in solves the voltage issuse and is more than able to supply the air flow, however,the design of the heater itself is the problem. I ll try to be brief. If you take the heater apart you will find that there is a fan blade that pulls cab air and pushes it thru the heater core. Then the air goes into the box and is directed to the floor or defrost by flicking the flap to desired postion. The biggest problem is the none of this is sealed good enough and there is to much air leakage inside to effectivly get air up the the windshield. Plus by only using in cab air, you are reciculating air and that causes steaming windows and even frost on the inside if windshield esp in colder temps. ( i speak from experince!) Look at any newer heater boxes and you will find better internal sealing, flappers will have foam or soft rubber edges to help with sealing. The heater core is more self contained and the blower will be a cage,not a fan. The whole design is to take outside air directly thru core then directed to wherever you want it. The deluxe heater that is made for the AD trucks is made to pull outside air in. While it is a little more efficient, it still has internal air flow/ leakage issuses. I have had both units apart, and while i havent done any modifications, it is possble to sealup the inside better. It will take some time and a little fabrication and imagination, or go after a retro assy that has todays technology for yesterdays trucks. Which will be just fine, but if you're wanting to stay original you'll have to reengineer the heater to make it more efficient! | | | | Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 107 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2003 Posts: 107 | Thanks for that info, Quindel. I'm not totally committed to originality--sounds like it might be too much work for not much gain. Do you have any recommendations for generic retro heaters? I am also "rustoring" a '46 Fleetline Aerosedan that I plan on driving year round (yep, in the rain, snow, and salt! I will wash it regularly--it's just a car) and will need a very capable heater for it as well. Thanks! | | |
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