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| | | Forums66 Topics128,129 Posts1,056,700 Members48,454 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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Last edited by olezippi; 05/06/2020 8:30 PM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 Sir Searchalot | | Sir Searchalot Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,983 | I had to laugh. We have all fought doors. The new rubber fights us. The weight fights us. The latches, the catches. Her what you can try/check.
1. First of all keep the window from breaking thru all this. 2. When you say it won't latch, do you mean it catches but won't fully latch? 3. Will it slam and work every time? 4. Don't push on the handles when slamming. 5. Did you just replace the rubber? 6. I Assume you tried adjusting the striker plate. 7. See if you can detect anything from the passengers door that closes correctly. Does that door have new rubber? 8. You need to read the shop manual regarding door adjustment. Available online.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,296 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,296 | A common mistake made, is thinking that moving the striker further inboard will make a door stay closed. More often, the problem is that the striker is too far inboard. This results in the striker to catch the latch in the 'safety' position, but not allow it to catch it in the fully latched position. Pulling the latch out about 1/8" or less will usually do the trick.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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