I was in the process of changing temperature Guage when I came across this issue. The original gauge is electric, and the gauge cluster will only fit this electric model. I didn't think they were supposed to be anything but the capillary tube type. Has anyone else come across this issue? If so, how do I make the original one work again?
Nice! No breaking the old tube for you! I’ve never seen one before.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
The Jim Carter catalogue says to inquire if you have an electric gauge. I'm not sure if this means they might have a sending unit for you or might have a gauge. You should inquire. I believe the electric gauges were used primarily on the bigger trucks, 1-1/2 ton and up. Post a 'wanted' request in the swap meet section.
You could also replace the gauge cluster housing with one that used a capillary sending unit. They are readily available as a used part and there are reproduction gauges available. If you get lucky you might also find a NOS sender.
Restoring the gauge cluster was one of the more satisfying jobs I've done on my '48 GMC 1-Ton.
Great, thanks for the advice. I may look at Jim Carter's magazine again to see what I find. Oddly enough, it seems to read correctly when I have the whole gauge assembly dismounted and the truck on, yet then the fuel gauge dropped to zero. Seems like some sort of grounding problem. I'll chase it a while, but then will probably just get a new gauge.
My 49 GMC 150 also had a electric gauge. Confused the hell outa me. I did search aroubd for a sender for a while and they are scarce because they are some oddball ohm value. I actually had a extra gauge set so I used the gauge back to run a new simple capillary tube style but i think you could easily mod the gauge housing to fit either. Its just a matter of drilling those 2 holes or opening up the center. I will try and find my part numbers that I saved when I was looking before.
PN 1511734 is what I have found on the interwebs. They say its 520 ohms @180 degrees. I remember they were all expensive and I wasnt sure if the gauge head was good so I opted to go with the mechanical gauge and its been fine. I actually swapped gauge faces so my original worn face is on it now so it dosent stick out.
Interesting. The Parts catalog doesn't show an electric temperature gauge. It sure looks original, with a typical part number on the face of the gauge. [on edit] Nevermind. I was looking at the Chevy parts book.
Last edited by klhansen; 05/03/20208:11 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
So all you asked was "how do I make the original one work again?". Then a huge dialog began. So I will asked the important questions. What is wrong with what? Do you have an electric gauge and an electric sender? Are you saying that the temperature is not reading right? What does the gauge do? Have you tested the gauge or the sender? What is the goal?
For those wondering why convert to 12V as GM did in 1955: 1. No big huge cables required 2. You can buy a 12V battery anywhere. 3. Faster starting, especially in cold weather. 4. You can add accessories, winch, electric wipers, radios...... 5. You can by bulbs anywhere 6. You can get a jump start from someone without burning out bulbs and gauges. 7. Automotive is built around 12V systems 8. Testing is built around 12V 9. Aftermarket is built around 12V 10. You can buy a 12V alternator anywhere and cheap. You can't buy a generator or Voltage regulator anywhere and cheap. 11. Brighter headlights and tail lights, no need for relays 12. You can charge your cell phone 13. 6V takes twice the current/amps to get the same watts. If you have 50W hi beam headlights, they will draw twice as much current as on a 12V system. I.E. 100W (both headlights) is 100W/6V=16.7 Amps vs 100W/12V= 8.33 Amps. You can run out of amps on 6V. (dimming, etc). Then you start bandaiding with relays, voltage regulator tricks or living with it. 14. May take a special harness to rewire a 6V truck. 15. It's so easy and inexpensive. 16. There is no reason not to convert except to prove something...........I don't know what.
No shade on those who like 6V, just a list for those asking why bother. If you switch, only your hair dresser will know for sure.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
So all you asked was "how do I make the original one work again?". Then a huge dialog began. So I will asked the important questions. What is wrong with what? Do you have an electric gauge and an electric sender? Are you saying that the temperature is not reading right? What does the gauge do? Have you tested the gauge or the sender? What is the goal?
For those wondering why convert to 12V as GM did in 1955: 1. No big huge cables required 2. You can buy a 12V battery anywhere. 3. Faster starting 4. You can add accessories, winch, electric wipers, radios...... 5. You can by bulbs anywhere 6. You can get a jump start from someone without burning out bulbs and gauges. 7. Automotive is built around 12V systems 8. Testing is built around 12V 9. Aftermarket is built around 12V 10. You can buy a 12V alternator anywhere and cheap. You can't buy a generator or Voltage regulator anywhere and cheap. 11. Brighter headlights and tail lights, no need for relays 12. You can charge your cell phone 13. 6V takes twice the current/amps to get the same watts. 14. May take a special harness to rewire a 6V truck. 15. There is no reason not to convert except to prove something...........I don't know what.
Three words, bartamus. Chicks dig it.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Well I apologize for jumping the gun on posting this thread. Turns out the gauge works fine after cleaning up some wire connections and of course, replacing the thermostat. I naively assumed assumed it was functional, but it was definitely stuck open, making it seems like the gauge was reading incorrectly stuck on 100 degrees all the time.
It's OK, we should have stopped and asked more questions. The key to helping a person is to finitely confirm the issue and the symptoms. To understand what a person is saying before we start blasting away. I have always tried to use this approach but I forget sometimes. Very glad you do not have an issue. Don't hesitate to post with the next problem you may have.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
