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#1358019 05/01/2020 1:41 AM
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 266
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I finally got the Ebrake all put together in my 49 3600. The brake itself holds fine, but the pedal doesn't stay down unless I'm pushing in on the release handle. As soon as I let go the pedal pops right to the top. How is this thing supposed to work? I'm starting to think I'm missing a part somewhere or something... Help!


49 Chevy 3600
65 Chevy K10
48 International KB-1 Service Truck
55 Willys CJ5 - Chevy 331 powered
26 Model T Roadster Rat Rod
70 Tucker Sno-Cat 442-A
96 Dodge 3500 Cummins dually flatbed x-cab 4x4
06 Jeep Wrangler LJ rock crawler
If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,001
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,001
Do you have the spring in place that goes around the pedal link and underneath the release lever to keep the release handle down? If you have a shop manual, check page 5-6.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
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Yes, that spring is in place


49 Chevy 3600
65 Chevy K10
48 International KB-1 Service Truck
55 Willys CJ5 - Chevy 331 powered
26 Model T Roadster Rat Rod
70 Tucker Sno-Cat 442-A
96 Dodge 3500 Cummins dually flatbed x-cab 4x4
06 Jeep Wrangler LJ rock crawler
If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,001
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,001
Possibly the hole in the release bar is worn. A sharp edged hole would be more effective at grabbing the pedal link.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 266
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Posts: 266
Hmmm... I'll have to take a closer look at it. I wonder if just sharpening up the edges a bit will do the trick


49 Chevy 3600
65 Chevy K10
48 International KB-1 Service Truck
55 Willys CJ5 - Chevy 331 powered
26 Model T Roadster Rat Rod
70 Tucker Sno-Cat 442-A
96 Dodge 3500 Cummins dually flatbed x-cab 4x4
06 Jeep Wrangler LJ rock crawler
If you can't fix it with a hammer, it's an electrical problem
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,337
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'Bolter
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On occasion I had to put a little more angle on the lock bar where the round shaft goes through so it gets a better bite.


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Joined: Jan 2017
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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southtowns 27--Make sure the lock bar has no paint or rust--I had to sand mine--then it worked fine--Bill

Joined: Mar 2010
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Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
Make sure there is no floor mat, or jute, or carpet wadded up under the lock bar, preventing the spring from doing its job.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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