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Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 93
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Okay, I did some welding 20 years ago. Some stick under supervision and a HB wire feed with no gas.

I would really like to go with a MIG unit without gas and use flux core wire to weld with. This will only be used for simple body patch panels.

I have no plans on becoming a serious welder and only want enough machine to replace simple cut out rust spots in my cab, etc... I want to keep it simple and not too expensive, under $500. I do have practice pieces for the welding.

thanks

Last edited by 60ApacheC20; 04/25/2020 4:31 PM.

1960 C20 Apache Step Side Long Bed
"Swamp Thing" restoration
Story starts in 60-66 trucks
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,168
I would not recommend flux core wire for sheet metal work. The machine I have (A Lincoln Handy-Mig - paid about $350 for it) specifies different polarities for MIG and flux core welding, and the setup for flux core increases penetration, which tends to blow holes in sheet metal. Also, you have the flux to clean off after you're done welding.

If your going to get a dual setup (MIG/Flux core) wire feed, bite the bullet and get a bottle of C02 (cheaper than argon, and works reasonably well). You'll be happy you did. Save the flux core wire for thicker stuff you'll eventually wind up welding.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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C
'Bolter
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You definitely don't want flux core. But If you haven't done a whole lot of welding Argon/CO2 mix is easier to weld with than straight CO2. I own about a dozen welders. Everything from a Miller D500 Pro down to a couple of Hobart 140 Handlers. I have one of the Hobarts at the shop and one at home. I use 025 wire and mixed gas. For someone who is just going to weld ever once in a while, I think I would recommend something like this. https://www.harborfreight.com/mig-140-professional-welder-with-120-volt-input-64804.html And they always have 20% off on a single item coupons. https://go.harborfreight.com/coupons/2019/08/20-off-any-single-item-at-harbor-freight/ And a tank of mix can be bought here. https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF:X:20CYL-ARCD It would keep you right around $500. Once you own a welder, you might be surprised how often you use it.

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Shop Shark
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Crenwelge ?? thanks. But, does this welder come with the hoses and such.... or do I need to purchase a tank, valve and hoses to go with the welder?


1960 C20 Apache Step Side Long Bed
"Swamp Thing" restoration
Story starts in 60-66 trucks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,168
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,168
That one does come with a regulator for gas and hose. You will need to purchase a tank of gas (you can lease them at your local gas supplier, but buying the tank outright is probably a better thing for the occasional user). When they say ready to weld out of the box, they just mean with flux core. Unfortunately if you read the small print on HF's 20% off coupons, it says excludes welders, etc. frown
Crenwelge is right, that you'll find yourself doing more welding than you expect. Once friends know you have a welder, they'll find projects for you to do. grin


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,518
S
'Bolter
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Flux core will make a mess out of patch panels, unless you can turn it way down. I have a cheapy HF that has a high and low setting and low is still too high


1953 Chevrolet 3100
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I've got a 110v miller. I've only used flux core wire with it. It took me a while to figure out how to NOT make bigger holes in my sheet metal. But it does a pretty good job as long as you have a grinder to smooth things out. I don't weld anything that matters tho!!!!!


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
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Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
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If you ask Carl52, he'll say get a TIG welder. That's one process I can't do. Have MIG, O/A, and stick welders. Maybe one day I'll get a TIG.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 86
A
'Bolter
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Stay away from flux core. OK for working outside on a windy day as a band aid but get a Lincoln 140 mig welder. Great choice for body panels. Everybody sells them.
I get my gas at Tractor Supply. (Argon CO2)
The best wire is Lincoln L56 by far.
Never tried TIG but provides beautiful weld beads but may require more learning curve to get proficient.


Mike
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton w/ 1959 235
1971 Chevelle
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5
Renaissance Man
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A TIG is 3X over budget for the OP, but man are they nice. I can weld most kinds of metal together, and can weld some dissimilar metals together.
There aren't sparks flying all over the shop and there isn't much grunge to clean up after the weld.
There is a learning curve. Working the pedal to get the right amount of heat takes a while to get use to. After you get the hang of that, you will wonder why they don't put pedals on stick or MIG welders.
I would say that it takes a steady hand to keep the torch off of the work piece and the filler rod where it belongs, but there are many ways to cheat to stay steady, like getting into a comfortable position and resting your forearms on whatever you can.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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Laying your rod on the joint? Walking the cup?

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Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by MNSmith
Laying your rod on the joint? Walking the cup?
Yep, and laying off the caffeine and nicotine.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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6
Shop Shark
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Purchased a Hobart 140, looks good. Now I need to find the wire and a gas tank locally.


1960 C20 Apache Step Side Long Bed
"Swamp Thing" restoration
Story starts in 60-66 trucks
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2
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Search the computer yellow pages for welding supplies.

Don


1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck
"The Flag Pole"
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1957 1-ton flatbed dually,
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,168
Originally Posted by 60ApacheC20
Purchased a Hobart 140, looks good. Now I need to find the wire and a gas tank locally.
Airgas down in McMinnville, as well as Industrial Welding Supply. Not far from you.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 35
5
'Bolter
'Bolter
5 Offline
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 35
If you have a Lowe’s near you, they carry Lincoln electric mig wire and usually stock .025 size which is what you would want to use on auto body sheet metal. They also usually have the electrode tips for your mig gun. Air Gas is where I get my cylinders filled also.

Last edited by 593ETow; 04/29/2020 7:49 AM.

56 210 Del Ray
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'Bolter
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I had the same question as well. Have looked at a ton of videos on the electronic encyclopedia (YOUTUBE). Lots of guys show panel welding with flux core. Yes its a little messier, but like you price point is important. By me a 20# tank 75/25 Argon/CO2 is about $140 and 60# is over $200 A spool of .035 flux core was $8, and I don't have a tank of gas running out or sitting around forever. .035 is a little thick for panels, can be done, but I need a spool for some heavier things as well. I've now got some cash for other parts, and some practice sheet metal. I own a Lincoln 180 pro mig. Switching polarity is easy, and it actually came out of the box set for flux core. (DC- /straight polarity ) I'm getting ready in the next few weeks to start practicing as the body repair is coming up soon. As for spatter mess, lots of video pros swear by the anti-spatter spray. Like cooking spray for your sheet metal. I've watched this series,
and this series as well
But there are lots to choose from. Just my $.02. I'm hoping for good luck, and I wish you the same.

Big Ed


"it's only old if you can't find a use for it; otherwise it's cool and i'll use it."
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,261
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,261
My Model A project. Done with a Miller 220, 225, or whatever it is. 200 amp, 220v machine with .035 wire. .025 tends to birdcage if I'm not paying attention or put a sharp bend in the hose. But .035 is certainly doable for sheet metal. Adjust your machine to the proper settings and take your time doing a lot of spread out zot zots!

BTW, do yourself a favor and save a few bucks. Always turn off your gas valve when not welding. There is a better chance for leakage through the valve and machine when not in use. That will result in either running out of gas in the middle of a project, or having to run down to the welding supply for a refill more than you should.
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