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| | Forums66 Topics126,778 Posts1,039,291 Members48,100 | Most Online2,175 Jul 21st, 2025 | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 | I'm fitting the hood on my '53 AD. It seems like the more I raise the radiator support the better it fits. I'm up to about 1 1/4" between the support mounts and the crossmember. I've got good measurements on my cab mounts, as per the assembly manual. I can build a spacer for the rad support gap, thats no problem. Anybody (or everybody) go this high? Any other tricks? | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | Do you have the fenders loosely bolted up? Seems like something isn't right if it's that high.
I'm sure someone with more hood fitting experience will chime in. Carl? How about it?
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 | Whoops sorry. All front clip sheet metal is loose. Everything is an "old" part, no repos. | | | | Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,194 Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part | Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part Joined: Jan 2013 Posts: 2,194 | Do you have the felt spacers that go between the radiator support and the cross member?
Chris | | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 | Do you have the felt spacers that go between the radiator support and the cross member?
Chris No, some rubber ones were in there. Why do you ask this? | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Here are some radiator core support parts : Chevs of the 40sClassic Parts | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | Do you happen to have a GMC frame and a Chevrolet radiator support? That would cause your exact issue. I have that combination on the truck which I am building. The GMC crossmember sits 1 1/2" lower than the Chevrolet crossmember. I made a 1 1/2'" spacer to account for this.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 | Do you happen to have a GMC frame and a Chevrolet radiator support? That would cause your exact issue. I have that combination on the truck which I am building. The GMC crossmember sits 1 1/2" lower than the Chevrolet crossmember. I made a 1 1/2'" spacer to account for this. I don't believe so...everything was good 12 years ago when I took it apart, all the same parts. Should I try dropping the rear of the fenders? | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | If you have all Chevrolet parts, you need to recheck the gaps at all four cab mounts. Make sure that you measured from the correct points. I little bit off on those areas creates a huge error at the radiator support.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 | If you have all Chevrolet parts, you need to recheck the gaps at all four cab mounts. Make sure that you measured from the correct points. I little bit off on those areas creates a huge error at the radiator support. I checked again and those measurements are quite near what they should be. The hood is stopped closing when the bottoms of the rear curve of the hood hits the cowl. I previously said that all parts were original GM, all except the lower cowl. Original was replaced with aftermarket due to rust. I'm thinking maybe the curve in the cowl for the hood is off. What is the next adjustment? | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | Do you have the Chevrolet Factory Repair Manual? It will guide you through the process.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 | Do you have the Chevrolet Factory Repair Manual? It will guide you through the process. I don't have a repair manual. Which process? | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 Bubba - Curmudgeon | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,262 | Do you have the Chevrolet Factory Repair Manual? It will guide you through the process. This is all that I could find in the Shop Manual - 1948-1951(, but probably good for radiator through 1953? It does not discuss/describe using shims (metal or "fabric). I have used such shims (and, used too many). Someday, I'll re-adjust the "front clip" (it sits too high on my Suburban). | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | The process boils down to this: 1) Adjust the cab to factory specs. Since you don't have a manual, you probably don't have the cab set to specs above the frame. 2) Adjust the back of the hood to the cowl so that you have a parallel gap the full length of 3/16" to 1/4". This is when you set the correct height of the radiator support. The gap won't be parallel if the radiator support is not spaced correctly. There is a lot more in the manual, but this should get you headed in the right direction. Your life will be much easier once you buy a manual.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 70 | The process boils down to this: 1) Adjust the cab to factory specs. Since you don't have a manual, you probably don't have the cab set to specs above the frame. 2) Adjust the back of the hood to the cowl so that you have a parallel gap the full length of 3/16" to 1/4". This is when you set the correct height of the radiator support. The gap won't be parallel if the radiator support is not spaced correctly. There is a lot more in the manual, but this should get you headed in the right direction. Your life will be much easier once you buy a manual. Which manual? I have an assembly manual, it gives me measurements, etc. The cab is sitting as per that manual's floor/frame distances. How do you adjust the hood to cowl gap? | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 Renaissance Man | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,059 | You need the Factory Shop Manual.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 9,830 | 48-51 Chevy Truck Shop ManualReprints are also available if you want a hard copy.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 'Bolter | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 4,886 | If you need to raise the core support ( front of hood ) to align the hood to cab, why not raise the back of the cab slightly and core support slightly and meet in the middle? If it looks right, then start attaching other parts to see how they fit up. Lots of variables to deal with, even if the measurements are per manual, that doesn't mean there right for 60 year old parts. | | |
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