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Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 95
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 95
Just rewired my 47 panel, replaced light switch with new. The rheostat is heating up to almost burning the contact when light switch is on. Didn’t do this at first. I’m installing a turn signal and in process of wiring the tail lights. It’s 6 volt. Any ideas?


1949 Chev 3800
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,105
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,105
Was the new light switch for 12V? Both are available, and it might make a difference in how hot the rheostat gets. It will always get warm, as it's a resistance device, but operating a 12V rheostat on 6V could be the cause.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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Insomniac
Insomniac
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,196
Yes, the rheostat is a variable resistor. The more current that passes through it, the hotter it gets.

I have not been happy with the rheostat in my truck. (I have also found them troublesome in other older cars). To me, "rheostat" may be a curse word in some foreign language. In this truck, I thought I had it working OK, but last time we were out in the evening, I turned the lights on and there were no instrument lights. Turning the rheostat madly back and forth did not clean the contacts and bring the lights up. I couldn't find a sweet spot where the instrument lights lit up so we drove home without them. Next day, I moved the instrument light wire under the same screw as the tail lights. So now the instrument lights are not adjustable, but they work.

My solution is to simply connect the instrument light wire to the same point on the light switch as the tail lights. Who needs a rheostat!


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Posts: 11,105
Good info Gord.

RHEOSTAT!! Nope, the forum censor doesn't flag it. grin


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 9,115
The dash lights should not draw enough current to heat that up. Something is wrong in the setup.


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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Check the dash light circuit for a short- - - -there shouldn't be enough current draw to make the stat get that hot.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Jul 2019
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Ok, thanks for all this information guys. I will retrace everything. The switch I have is supposed to be a replacement for the original 6 v switch. I assumed it was 6v. I do like the idea of bypassing the dash light terminal. I don’t care to or have need to dim them anyway. Thanks again!


1949 Chev 3800

Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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