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Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 93
6
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 93
I am doing my body work in stages as time allows. So I may sand down a fender one day and have some parts come back from the dip tank another week... I want to protect the metal until I have time to shoot primer on the bare metal. So, I have seen things like Eastwood Metal Wash to protect bare metal. It could be weeks between sanding and priming. I am thinking of using Epoxy Primer / Sealer over the rust sealer. Will I have to wash off the sealer with a special soap to make sure the paint sticks?


1960 C20 Apache Step Side Long Bed
"Swamp Thing" restoration
Story starts in 60-66 trucks
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,305
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
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Joined: Mar 2010
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If you want to be 100% sure that you have consistent adhesion and no rust creeping out later, I would recommend that you epoxy prime the parts right after they come from the paint stripper. Keep them in a dry place until you can work on them further.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Jan 2013
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S
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Agree with Carl here, it will save both time and money in the long run.
Best of all store your primed parts in a low humidity area, not a dirt floor out building.
When the time comes scuff up your primed parts and proceed with body and fill work.
Seal your primer before painting base or top coats.

Some people prefer to do body work and filler on bare metal before epoxy priming in this instance you can prime with a thin etch primer that will sand off easy when the time comes.
I'm not a professional but merely telling you what has worked for me.

Etch primered parts should sit a couple weeks before epoxy primering, or it can cure quicker if put out in the sun.

Last edited by sstock; 04/22/2020 2:02 AM.

1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
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T
Bondo Artiste
Bondo Artiste
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I etch primed all of my bare metal parts after blasting before body work. Some parts sat for two years after etch priming before body work and then epoxy priming. It worked out nicely.


~ Phillip
1949 GMC Suburban - 10 year project
1952 Pontiac Chieftain Convertible straight 8 hydramatic
1945 GMC half ton truck - Driver- Sold 9-15-25
1946 Chevy COE - SOLD 1-5-26 BUH BYE CHEVY!
1959 GMC Half ton long bed NAPCO
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,260
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,260
I agree with the previously mentioned prime right away if you can.

I would suggest you check with the manufacturer of your epoxy primer. Some say their stuff will stick best to bare metal, no etch.

Joined: Oct 2015
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F
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Joined: Oct 2015
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Originally Posted by 52Carl
If you want to be 100% sure that you have consistent adhesion and no rust creeping out later, I would recommend that you epoxy prime the parts right after they come from the paint stripper. Keep them in a dry place until you can work on them further.

No better advice has been given on this topic.

"etch" primer is a catch phrase for sticky primer... think about it... what good is a primer if it ISN'T sticky.

There is NO replacement for epoxy primer regardless of brand.

Bare metal needs epoxy primer to prevent rust creep. Rust Creep describes the ability for rust to creep under coatings once it starts with a scratch or chip. Just look at powder coating that's been chipped or scratched... that's "rust creep". Epoxy primer over bare steel is ONLY rust preventive coating.

Last edited by FootStomper; 04/22/2020 3:29 AM.

~~ Darcy

1959 GMC 9310 Canadian- built Shortbox Fleetside Deluxe
FootStomper
In the Stovebolt Gallery
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Great answer(s). Now I will do some research and add another post for "etch" Epoxy Primers. I will splurge on a 60 gallon compressor and a good paint gun after I figure out best price on a quality equipment. It has been 30 years since I painted a vehicle and it was not the quality I want this time.....

thanks for the great replies


1960 C20 Apache Step Side Long Bed
"Swamp Thing" restoration
Story starts in 60-66 trucks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,260
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,260
Start with Southern Polyurethanes. Lots of tech info on their site. You could look at almost any manufacturer, but sometimes it's complicated to navigate their web sites unless you know the exact product you want.


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