Any suggestions for getting a frozen/rusted leaf spring eyebolt out so I can take the leaf springs out Chevy '49 3100. These are at the rear of the front springs and the front of the rear springs. I have a rosebud tip to apply heat however since the frame casting is irreplaceable, it is hard to know how much is too much. The photo is before frame repair.
Last edited by Joe S.; 04/21/20202:28 AM. Reason: Add picture
'49 3100 "Sweet Caroline" because the truck has fabulous curves .... like Caroline!
I’m not sure if you know, but that bushing/sleeve is threaded as well. Take the grease zero off, then nut off the end of the bolt, then back out the bolt with a breaking/strongarm bar like a regular bolt. Take it slow and easy so you don’t strip the bracket. No hammers required on this one. I’ve been there in the past, too. Penetrating oil will be your friend on this one judging by the pictures. Good luck.
Last edited by Fox; 04/21/20204:30 AM.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
I used my hydraulic floor jack under the breaker bar to do some of the initial turning of the nut and then the bolt. Slow going but it worked. I used the weight of my truck as resistance vs. hernia surgery!
