The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay installing a GG#50070 Heavy duty Turn signal Hazard warning switch

Does anyone have any experience installing a Universal GG#50070 Heavy Duty turn signal. I', installing it in a 54 chevy 3100 with a new wiring harness.There is one area on the wiring diagram that came with the switch that is confusing. Any help would be appreciated. Hope everyone is staying home and working on their stovebolts. That is what i am doing. Thanks

If you post the instructions and explain what is confusing, we can help for sure. If there is a diagram, post that also.
All of those are pretty much the same wiring. The pic below is your switch. 7 wire. Many of us have installed these type units.

Thanks. That is the switch. I will try to post a copy of the instructions. I had installed a new wire harness in. It had terrific instructions.

the area i do not understand is in the lower left corner where it says "cut & tape". I just took the brown wire directly to the right signal/brake light.

I think its telling you to cut and abandon the existing brake wire from the brake light switch to each of the brake lights. It gets replaced by the two wires from the signal switch. If you don't remove that wire, then both brake lights will flash when either left or right turn signal is selected.

We will fix you up. Yes, we both need to look at the same diagram. You did not state your confusion? Is it an overall confusion or just one area? If you are taking pics of the instructions, make sure they are readable before posting. When posting a pic, use the "attachment manager" at lower left of the post reply. Easy to follow. Takes you right to your picture files on your computer. Download pics to computer, then use Attachment manager. If you don't see "attachment manager", click on "Use Full Editor" at lower right of reply page. Then you will see it.

Hope this gets thru. i had installed a new wiring harness and it all went well . There were very good instructions with it. The area i am having trouble understanding is in the lower left corner where the "cut & tape" instructions are. i just took the brown wire directly to the right rear stop or signal light. The park lights are not shown on the diagram. i have replace the one element bulb in the park lights and using one element for park and one for signal. i can send the results of my work so far if you think it will help. Thanks for your help. the post shows one file in the Attachment Manager, but i can not see it. hope it gets thru. if not maybe i can send it to your email.
Frank

Yes I see the diagram.
The 1954 wiring diagram shows only one tail light. I assume you must have added another tail light.

See My post 4 posts up. The "cut and tape" comments are telling him to disconnect the original stop light wiring. That would have to be done whether he currently has one stoplight or two. Otherwise there would be feedback from the brake light switch that would override the signals. (He posted the diagram in a separate thread that got merged with this one.)

Forget the words on the diagram "cut and tape". The diagram is very confusing. I will explain what you need to end up with. The cut and tape on the diagram is describing what to do with existing wiring. You are doing all new. Ignore all that.

DISCONNECT BATTERY.

1. Remove the old wire from the stop switch terminal that went to the rear. Leave the other stop switch wire attached to the stop switch. You probably did that already.
2. Attach the turn signal red wire to that stop switch terminal.
3. I know you are doing a new harness that has colors. The new turn signal has colors also. The only colors I will mention are the turn signal colors I see on the diagram. The new harness has wires for the tail lamp/running lamp filament. You probably have that wired already. I will skip that because those wires are not associated with the turn signal wiring.
4. For the brake/turn filament wires coming out of the rear sockets...... as follows:
A wire from the left turn/stop filament to orange turn sig wire.
A wire from the right turn/stop filament to brown turn sig wire.
DONE. Sounds like you may have already figured it out.

Let me know if you have further.

I don't know if you are aware that the 1954 truck offered a cup type turn signal switch assembly instead of the clamp on type.
Also there is a single indicator light socket that goes between the 0 mph and the 90 mph numbers on the speedometer.
1954 was the first year that Chevrolet offered this type of turn signal for their trucks.
It is the same cup turn signal switch assembly that is used on the 53-54 Chevrolet passenger car.

Below link is the wiring diagram for the cup type turn signal switch assembly.
1954 Truck Directional Signals

Illustration
Group # 6.512 cover

Where to Find
(1954-56) Turnsignal Cup Assembly

xfiles

What a lousy wiring diagram. I like the "hose cramp".

Anyway, I will add one more thing to look out for. The "hose cramp" is supposed to ground the switch to the steering column. When I installed the switch, I didn't want the clamp screwing up the paint on my freshly painted column, so I wrapped rubber around the column. This meant that the switch wasn't properly grounded and didn't work correctly. To fix this, I ran a separate ground to the switch by slipping a spade terminal under the clamp and running the wire down the column to a good ground.

Kind of like the camera that goes "Crick"

Or the instructions for a plasma cutter that say "Do not use in a dropping environment".

The worst I've ever seen. Frank did not know this before he purchased. I didn't either. But to anyone else....do not buy this unit. It's all written in pigeon English and the drawing is below amateur. Also, they say "flash and off" and "parking stop". "Cramp"... the L and the R are far apart on the keyboard so it is not a fat finger mistake. It's Clazy. Up the yin yang.
A first time DIY installer would be in the nut house before they got turn signals. It always seemed odd to me that such a nice chrome unit is put on with a sewer pipe clamp.

Frank, you may want to consider a Signal Stat 900....or pop for the real deal as Jorb said.

Not electrical in nature but when I installed that on the steering column, I got a bad shiny reflection in the windshield. Really annoying. I painted the top of the "box" and the top of the handle with flat black paint.

That is correct. i added a right taillight

Thanks. I will give use this tomorrow and see what happens. I appreciate your help.

Wow...not meaning to hijack this post, but thanks jorb, I was recently able to locate an original turn signal cup for my 54 and the information you provided will help.

Thanks,
Phillip

SmithLakeChevy,

The 1st attached photo is what the original 1954 turn signal lever looks like. More of a black teardrop end,.

The aftermarket lever looks like a black lolly pop on the end.
(1954-59) Turnsignal Lever w/ Knob

I have been able to only find turn signal levers that look like the original teardrop end, but only with a white teardrop end.
I guess you could paint it black.
54 55 56 Chevy turn signal lever

The original turn signal lever lock nut in the 1st photo, on mine, was not a nut but is round and not hex shaped. Like a threaded spacer.

Tim Lederman's Suburban turn signal

Glad I could help,

xfiles

This is what I picked up on eBay recently. I purchased the whole unit, wheel, horn button, turn signal and all.

It appears to be what is in Tim Lederman's Suburban. The PO had actually sawed the whole wheel assembly off the vehicle right below the turn signal. Ouch! Anyway, everything looks to be intact and undamaged with the exception of the signal switch wiring (which he also sawed). No problem though since Jim Carter has a replacement part for that. I am proud to have it.

The last picture is what is in the truck now.

Thanks jorb and good luck with your project clrh2ofrank. Let us know how it turns out.

I assume grounding the switch is for the indicator lights on the switch. Is that correct. The indicator lights are working. R,L and Hazard.

Yes, that would be the only reason. For the "built-in" indicators (AKA pilot bulb), not for dash indicators.
Frank, is every thing working now?

SmithLakeChevy,

That is a rare find.

Since the previous owner wacked off the turn signal switch ribbon wire, you can find one HERE

Does the lower portion of your steering column have the ribbon/horn wire hole cover?
If not, maybe the previous owner still has the cover & screw.

Here is Tim Lederman's page that has the 1954 - 1955-1st series Installation Instructions for Directional Signals on
Carryall Suburban, Panel, and Canopy Express Trucks.
http://1954advance-design.com/DirectionalSignalsInstall.htm

The Sub & Panel truck turn signal rear wiring is different from the pick-up truck rear wiring.
http://1954advance-design.com/Documents/Signal%20Install%2012.pdf

Hooked up according to bartimos instructions. they were much simpler. ive attached some data from the results. Still have a few issues. Thanks for eveyones help
Frank

Try to send a better copy. When the parking ights are on i can not tell any difference when the brake is applied.

I straightened, rotated and blown up, the turn signal data.
Check attached.

still have a question about the following:

Still have a question about the following:
Park/ L turn signal

I cant't type

Still have a question about the following:
Park/L Turn signal
park/R Turn signal
Park/ Hazards Should all flash rather than steady?
Brake/Hazards Should all flash rather than steady?
Park/Brake See no dfference when brake is applied.

Thanks for your help.
Thanks for straightening the data sheet.

You have three malfunctions on the chart. Two are with hazard on. One is not. I have numbered them 1 thru 12. First order of business is to be SURE all bulbs are working, both filaments.
Be SURE these tests are done with ignition switch ON.
Next: Number 5. This says park is on and turn signal lever is in left turn position. Result is LF solid, RF no light, LR solid, RR no light.

1. LF and LR are on solid. Which filament is on. Park or stop/turn?
2. RF and RR are not on. Take out bulb and check socket contacts for voltage. Using a ice pick tester is good, it will flash if receiving flash signal and it will indicate voltage for park and stop. Alligator clip on good ground and touch each filament down inside socket with pick. I don't like a multimeter for these tests.
3. When a bulb is supposed to flash but does not it can mean a burnt out filament or it can mean the ever popular ground.
4. When check socket contacts, also use a small screw driver or a wire to touch the bulb case to ground while bulb is still in socket and appropriate lights or signals are on. Ignition on.
5. Keep in mind that the wires, socket contact and bulb filament for park are absolutely separate from the turn signal switch and wiring. If something is wired wrong they may be connected. This needs fixed.
6. Numbers 7 and 11 show hazard is somehow not receiving flash signal. Again, bad bulbs or obviously wired wrong. The brand new switch can also be malfunctioning.
7. Number 12 seems to indicate that both filaments are on, on all four light. Can you check that? Don't miss this check. You can't see while pushing brake pedal. You have to install a push rod on the pedal (2x4). All lenses should be off while all this trouble shooting is done.


FIY. The turn signal switch is a router. One of the things it does, for example, is that when you are turning right and you apply brakes, the switch shuts off the right brake light signal and only allows the right flash signal to the bulb. Since turn and brake are the same filament, it would not flash if receiving a solid brake voltage. The left brake light still works.

Apology to bartamos for the misspelling. When i look at the data it appears the park is a common denominator for some of the issues, all except the brake/hazard combination. must be getting some feed back. disconnected the tail light at the fuseblock and the turnsignal worked but that was the same as it not being on so no surprise. At the rear of the truck i tied the tail light coming from the front to the left and right tail light and the license plate light.

Did you see my list of suggestions, explanations and tests to perform? My take on the chart? You don't have to follow any of it just want to know if you saw it and read it. You seem to be blasting right past everything I post.

Also, you don't need to post to clarify a post. Just edit the original post. Under "EDIT".

I have seen it tonight. Plan to start down the list tomorrow. One thing i realized today is i left the tail light out of the equation. Im going thru your list and then see what i have.Thanks for your help. Everyone has been good to assist and offer suggestions. i'll let you know tomorrow where i am on it.
Thanks

Yes, park and tail lights are strictly operated by the headlight switch. No relation to the turn signal switch. Their wiring is on the same filament which is different than the stop/brake filament. I assume you have only one bulb in tail lights and park lights....with dual filaments.

One thing i have not mentioned is the tail lights are LED's and the Parking lights are standard bulbs. Could this be a problem. It came to mind when i read the comment about doing testing with lenses off.

good borning bartamos,
the park light is a normal bulb with two filaments. The tail light are LED with two wires that show different brightness. i am using the lower bright side for the tail light.thanks

LED’s take a different flasher?🛠

Morning not borning. ive gone thru the list
1. both have both filament on.
2. verified with ice pick tester.
3. Checked all bulbs and LEDs
4. grounds all checked good.
5. still checking the wiring.
6. Checking wiring. bulbs are good. Have not resorted to trying another switch, it might come to that.
7. Both filaments are on on all four bulbs/LED.

Im not questioning your judgmen, just want to learn. The light switch and the signal switch are fed independent of the ignition switch. Why does the ignition switch need to be ON.
Thanks for your patience.

Are any of the LEDs connected to the turn signal switch ?

Are you trying to flash a filament directional lamp and a LED directional lamp at the same time?

Like a hybrid,
Left front directional filament lamp
Left rear directional LED lamp

I don't know if you can mix match LEDs lamps and filament lamps on the same circuit.
At least when using a flasher in the circuit..

When pulling out the headlight switch how does the front park and the rear tail lamps look?

Is this how you have the truck lamps configured?
Check attached

xfiles

I had an issue on my Ford truck where the right rear bulb had burnt out and the loose filament shorted to the opposite filament. The result was when the lights were on, the right turn signal would not flash, but was on solid. I was on the road with a camper and it took me a few days to get the opportunity to take the camper off to access that bulb. In the meantime, I signaled right turns by "manually" flashing with the turn signal lever.
I would double check the bulbs to be sure that one or more filaments aren't shorted together.