Starting a restoration of this truck after a 8 year break. Newbie to site so I don't think I can post pictures. Truck was parked on dirt floor barn since 1960 and has some rust pitting on rims, brake drums, etc. Fairly new to restoration work so tips and advice appreciated. Past restoration projects 1917 Dodge Brothers Roadster and 68 MG Midget. This is my first stovebolt build. I'll try to address things on at a time. Truck has been disassembled and stored undercover. Frame has been sand blasted and epoxy primed. New spring pins and shackle bolts installed. Disassembled transmission yesterday and started cleaning. Everything shifted ok but stiff before disassembly. No rust and everything coated in very thick tar like grease.Gears and bearing seem ok. Anything I should be looking at in transmission before reassembly?
John 37 Chevy 1.5 ton 17 Dodge Brothers Roadster 23 Dodge Brothers Touring 23 Dodge Brothers Coupe 73 Plymouth Scamp 2 dr
John, read the photo instructions in the left margin of every page. Give it a try. I don’t believe you are restricted from photos . But, I’ve been wrong before.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
John, Regarding the transmission, if the gears and bearings look good, you have a great start. That tranny (GTK-134) has no synchros so if the gear teeth are not obviously worn that is a good sign that it was used by someone who knew how to shift. Check the external case for broken mounting ears (the two at the top). While I am thinking about mounting the tranny, the bottom two bolts mount into the case so be sure to use sealant on the threads on assembly or you will end up with a slow drip.
The bosses cast into the case to mount the parking brake and pedal assembly also need to be examined. They are tapped for the mounting bolts but bottom out. If you use too long of bolts you will break off the bosses. So be sure someone else has not broken them and be sure your mounting bolts are not overly long.
Get your self an repair manual or look up on line (Old Online Chevy Manual, Keith Hardy's site). The only measurement necessary to reassemble is the gap between the cluster gear and case (0.015 to 0.045 inch, I think going on memory). If you decide to disassemble the shift tower, you can put sealant on the ends of the shift rails, another place these trannys leak oil.
Thanks for the info Kent. Will look at all suggestions a was hopefully today and post. Manuals I have Master parts list 29-47 and 29-48 Motors truck manual 1936-42 Happy Holidays, John
John 37 Chevy 1.5 ton 17 Dodge Brothers Roadster 23 Dodge Brothers Touring 23 Dodge Brothers Coupe 73 Plymouth Scamp 2 dr
John, I have the exact same truck. Same color and looks to be in about the same condition. It was my wife's grandfather's farm truck. It was parked in the barn in 63 and didn't move until I pulled it out last August. I've got it completely down to the frame now. I've attached a couple of before and after pics of the engine and transmission rebuild. I sent it out to a guy. Good luck on your project.
Progress being made. Engine and transmission are back in truck. Still waiting on radiator and generator before start up so switched to body work. Sandblasted, repaired, and painted radiator support and front fender skirt. Removed cab parts and seat support/floor to prep for welding and paint.
John 37 Chevy 1.5 ton 17 Dodge Brothers Roadster 23 Dodge Brothers Touring 23 Dodge Brothers Coupe 73 Plymouth Scamp 2 dr
Much better shape than mine. Front and rear cab corners are pretty much gone. Finished welding cab corner supports today. They were all broken and shattered. Before my truck was retired they used it as a self unloading wagon for corn silage. I think it was also hit pretty hard in rear center of cab. Thinking of putting an extra strip of metal to smooth out where dents were on rear of seat support. Debating on whether to repair corners before or after sandblasting. I'm thinking after . That way I don't have to move to sandblaster a few miles away with new sheet metal andd chance damage.[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/16838/filename/IMG_1579.JPG[/img][img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/16836/filename/IMG_1853.JPG[/img]
John 37 Chevy 1.5 ton 17 Dodge Brothers Roadster 23 Dodge Brothers Touring 23 Dodge Brothers Coupe 73 Plymouth Scamp 2 dr
Started fabricating front cab corners. Dennis, I see in your picture there is a bead rolled section at bottom of front post near door. Could you possibly do a close up pic of that section? Also sent you a PM.
John 37 Chevy 1.5 ton 17 Dodge Brothers Roadster 23 Dodge Brothers Touring 23 Dodge Brothers Coupe 73 Plymouth Scamp 2 dr
Absolutely ZERO promises but if you PM me a list of parts you need I might be able to find a few since the only thing we kept off a 37 stake bed we modified was the body sheet metal. May (?) have chassis down at storage yard and put smaller pieces into two storage buildings nine years ago so might be as easy to find as Unicorns. Would not look for any but if I know what you need I would set aside as I stumble across them. Do remember it had a perfect windshield crank out assembly which is rare. Pics show little original parts remain. Has a rollback bed now that owner uses to haul his 37 Chevy Business Coupe.
Starting to work on 37 truck again. Fixed supports for lower firewall and sheet metal yesterday. Bought a new floor pan from the filling station and noticed one cutout is different. Anyone know how original Wiring was done or have pics. Wiring was a rats nest when I bought truck and Would like to put back To original. Sharpie is pointing at cutout on right in question. Thanks, John
Last edited by John Dlugos; 10/27/20201:56 PM.
John 37 Chevy 1.5 ton 17 Dodge Brothers Roadster 23 Dodge Brothers Touring 23 Dodge Brothers Coupe 73 Plymouth Scamp 2 dr
Regarding the wiring, I did a body off restoration on my '37 1/2 pick up. The truck came in pieces with almost no residual wiring. I ordered a complete wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring and figured out where things go by deduction. I think I can help you with pictures which would be best by email; my email address should be in my profile. For the next week I am not where my truck lives so if you are patient I may be able to help. Kent
I just started following you project. Your doing some nice work and making headway. Keep up the good work and before you know it you’ll see that light at the end of the tunnel. If your like me, I enjoy the journey and satisfaction of the little victory’s along the road!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Doors are in epoxy primer and ordered glass channel kit and a few other parts. There wasn’t much left to the old widow wiper seals or glass channel. Piece pictured of channel was all that was left from 2 doors. I’m assuming channel runs AllThe way around from one side to the other. One of my doors had what looks like a track for window channel on hinge side and other door it was missing? Is the piece that’s there complete? Going to make on for other side but not sure if I’m missing part of it.
Contemplating my next step. Running boards? Tin around nose and radiator? Both are really rough and will probably try to make new.
Any thoughts
John 37 Chevy 1.5 ton 17 Dodge Brothers Roadster 23 Dodge Brothers Touring 23 Dodge Brothers Coupe 73 Plymouth Scamp 2 dr
Not real sure from your pictures what your question is about the window channel, but I believe it runs only on the sides (2 pieces per door) and not across the top. As I recall if you run the channel as one piece across the top of the window it would cover part of the garnish molding. The top of the glass with the window all the way up is tucked up high enough in the door that you don't get wind noise while driving. Kent