The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop One barrel Holly carb rebuild kit

Where can I find a rebuild kit for a 1 barrel Holley R8053 2929 carburetor for my 1960 Chevy truck. The accelerator pump is bad. I looked on Holley's website with no luck.

Thanks,

With all due respect, that is not the Holley identification number for a 1-barrel carburetor. Either there is another number somewhere (or it was once on a now missing tag), or this one was mis-read.

Holley R8053 is a type 2280 aftermarket 2-barrel.
Holley 2929 is a type 4150 O.E. 4-barrel.

If this is an end-bowl single barrel with the word Holley on the bowl:

(1) assemble a wire brush, a pencil eraser, a strong light, a strong magnifying glass, and most importantly, a pair of "young eyes".
(2) orient the carburetor such that you can read the word Holley on the bowl.
(3) observe the fuel inlet screws into a "boss" of the casting on your left.
(4) on the side of the boss, you can see, use the wire brush, followed by the pencil eraser to spotlessly clean the boss.
(5) use the light, the glass, and the young eyes to read the number.

This is only true on Holley type 1904 and 1908, and 1920 single barrel carbs made before about 1968; newer ones are identified by tag only.

Unless aftermarket, once you find the number, your FLAPS should be able to order a kit (probably not stocked). If aftermarket, you are probably out of luck.

Jon.

Thanks for the response. I should have said two barrel. Not sure why I said one. Regardless, it has to be the two barrel aftermarket carb you referred to because the numbers I gave are correct. I see no ther numbers on there. Strange why the 2929 number was on there as well. O'Reilly"s were coming up with four barrels when researching them. Do you have a suggestion on what to replace it with?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

The original equipment Rochester 2 barrel would be the logical choice. That's probably the best carb Rochester ever built, at least until they came up with the Quadrajet. "Anything but a Holley" would be the operative term here. The small bore Rochesters used on the 283's and early 327's would be a close match, and parts and rebuild kits are available at any local auto parts store.
Jerry

Sounds good. It's going on a 283. Just out of curiosity. What does FLAPS stand for? I assume it refers to the local chain auto parts stores.

Thanks,

Mark

Agree completely, but there is one issue involved.

If you an old geezer like me, you need to put a Porta-Potty in the back of the truck; as you will be going twice as far on a tank of gasoline

Jon.

I guessed everything but the friendly part.

Thanks

Hey Jon,
I am but don't drive that far anymore. O'Reilly quoted me a price of $435 for the Rochester. Boy, those are pricey. He said they could get a reman from Tomco but it would be junk. He said I could get a Holley but I am taking the advice of "Anything but a Holley" from you and Hotrod Lincoln. Although I have been driving this truck for almost 30 years without any trouble. You did say it was an aftermarket though.

I assume you don't have anything that would work for me as a replacement.

Thanks again,

Mark

Mark - I am sold out of the Rochesters for this application.

All of the guys that want eye candy on their V-8 (tripower) have bought up the small base Rochester 2-barrels. Probably why you were quoted what you were, as you don't have a core to trade in.

Jon.

Thanks Jon. I hope that is the case. I'd hate to pay more than $435. I think I'll try and find a reputable place to buy a reman. Maybe some of the car clubs around here can point me in the right direction.

It's not impossible to find a "rebuildable core" on Ebay. Anything from the late 1950's to late 60's, 283, 307, or 327 would probably be in the ballpark, calibration-wise.
Jerry

Ole Green I sent you a PM. Dave

Hey Dave,

I got the carburetor today. Had to get an adapter for the gas inlet. Mine was bigger. Had to do a little work on the accelerator linkage. But got those things easily lined out.
The truck started right up, ran ok at first but started loading up with gas. A lot of white smoke. I was able to adjust the mixture screw on the drivers side until the smoke was mostly gone. Not so with the passenger side. I ran the mixture screw almost all the way in. But still lots of white smoke. As you would guess a very rough idle.

Before the accelerator pump on the Holley gave out the truck was running fine. Good plugs, timing is good etc. I know that's not a guarantee but I'm struggling getting it going again. It just doesn't seem to like that carburetor some some reason. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

White smoke???

Normally antifreeze.

Not good.

Jon.

Whitish. Smells likes unburned gas. It's only been two months since I last had the truck running and everything was fine then. Would it be in the oil?

The more I smell it the less it smells like gas. Are you saying it might be a blown head gasket? I"ll check the compression in the cylinders. Starting on the passenger side. There is no antifreeze in the oil.

Thanks,
Mark

Over rich gas turns to black soot when it cannot burn properly.
Pull your plugs and look for one or two plugs cleaner than the rest. That is where your water is getting in from either a cracked head or a blown head gasket. They get steam cleaned.

I pulled all the plugs on that side. They were all the same, sooty. The rear plug was a little wet. I did a compression check. 120 across the board. The rear hole was blowing out raw fuel. I will pull the valve cover tomorrow to check the valve train. A friend said maybe a lifter sticking? He didn't think it made any sense why just one cylinder.

Thanks 52Carl,

Mark

Got the truck running. There was nothing wrong with the carb. I made a bone head mistake installing it. Thanks to you Dave and everyone else for the help.