The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 1956 6100 Front Brakes

So I am getting ready to order some brake parts for my 56 6100 Chevrolet. This is what I have come up with for parts. Before I pull the trigger can you guys look this over and see if everything looks good. I'm also open if you have any suggestions for different part numbers?

Brake drum size 14" x 2.5" - Reline shoes and have drum turned

Return Springs - GM1416653 - NAPA 80163 - Raybestos H140

Adjusting Nut Spring - NAPA 80518 - Raybestos H407

Shoe Hold Down
Pin - NAPA 80466
Spring - NAPA 80179
Cup - NAPA 80446

Adjusting Screw and Nut - NAPA 80561 - (appears obsolete)

Master Cylinder - GM Casting #5454517 - 1.25" bore - Raybestos MC21698

Front Wheel Cylinder - GM Casting #5454385 - 0.875" - NAPA 19091 and 19090

Replace all lines with copper nickel

Hy DougH6100, I did a very quick check and you seem to have a good handle on things. The only thing I have to add is about the wheel cylinders, the original wheel cylinders with the straight in hose connection are no longer available. The wheel cylinder part number you quoted is actually for a 1960 and a bit newer application, these are the same bore as the originals, but they have an angled connection for the brake hose. I have suggested this conversion to others over the years and it has been successfully accomplished. As the newer wheel cylinders are handed I would suggest you purchase one of each part number 19091 and 19090 so that if nothing else your brake job will look the same side to side. Stay healthy.

A problem I had a couple of years ago when I relined only the front brakes on my 98 3/4ton was that the friction material didn't match whatever is on the rear. So the front rotors would overheat under load and begin to pulse. I could feel it in the steering wheel and the brake pedal. It had new rotors. I put the original pads on the new rotors and the problem went away. I suppose I'll have to change the rear shoes when these pads wear out unless I can find the part number for the pads on it now.

The same thing happened on my 1-ton AD but for different reasons-- no cooling holes in the alloy wheels. New wheels fixed that.

Do you have any idea if the friction materials are compatalble front for rear?

Thanks for the feed back 3B I'll update my parts list

Tommy the plan is to eventually re do the rear as well. I'll get the front and rear shoes re lined and the drums turned, so they should all have the same friction material. As of now I can't get the rear wheels off. Already broke one breaker bar and one socket extension.

Also forgot to mention that all the brake lines will be replaced with copper nickel lines.

I use a Ken-Tool lug wrench like this one,

https://www.amazon.com/Ken-Tool-35695-Heavy-Wrench-27-Inch/dp/B000P6WROG

put the correct size socket on the lug and the other end resting on a jack stand holding the wrench level. Then I side a 6' section of 3" thinwall conduit on as a cheater and give it all my 200 pounds has to bust them loose. Make sure your turning the correct way...left side are left threads...should be stamped "L" on the end of the lug.

Mike B

I had to use a little heat to break some of mine loose, only on the rears - Budd wheels.

I have a 3/4 set like that, bought it cuz it was cheap. Always expect to break it, every time I use it. So far I have not had to remove wheels from my brake drums.

I have simply removed the entire wheel, drum, and hub assembly as one unit. The first time I use a pallet jack on a smooth concrete floor, very nice. Then later on a rough asphalt driveway I use a homemade dolly with 5" casters. The dolly was pushed under the jacked up wheel. The truck was then lowered to just touch the dolly and the wheel bearing disassembled to allow the the wheel assembly to be rolled away from the truck on the dolly. Never touched the lugs. Did it by myself twice, all 4 wheels including the duals. The dolly was made of 2x4's.

I have also used a sheet of steel on a smooth floor, with some grease on the floor, long ago in another life. Doable but not as easy as the pallet jack or homemade dolly.

Thanks for the suggestions all. Mike I have been looking that that lug wrench and will probably get that one. I am going the correct direction, learned that on the front wheels.

Doug, I can bring my oxy-acetylene, the hoses are long enough we could keep 25 feet from each other. HaHa

I would look to a torque multiplier style, wheel nut tool, so you don't need heat

I found da problem, your tools are in random pieces.

I tried an official torque modifier tool, didn't do as well as without.

Ed

I know you're only heating the lug nut, but be very careful not to apply any heat to a rim with an inflated tire, the heat can cause a tire to explode.

Watch this video staging a tire blow up and how fast it happens...



Be safe,

Mike B

If I put any heat on these old lugs I will deflate the tire and remove the valve stem core. These are the old RH5 rims and I am not comfortable working around them fully inflated. Also plan to put new rims and rubber back on.

There used to be a dedicated Budd Wrench: hex on one end square on the other. It was sort of like a slide type breaker bar with a section of 1-1/4 round stock that slid back and forth through a hole in the section with the sockets on it. Hell for stout. The intent was to put a 6ft. cheater of 1-1/2 pipe over the round stock.

This was in my hay hauling days and the boss made us change our own flats because we were forever picking up nails in barnyards. Between me and the hay buck we never had on one couldn't undo. We carried this outfit on the rig at all times. That and a 12-ton bottle jack and a length of 2x6 to run the inside dual up on. It got used monthly at least. One tractor had Dayton wheels on it. I hated that. The only advantage was that it only had 5 or 6 lugs instead of 10. Never could get them square. Drove me nuts watching them wobble back and forth in the mirror.

Ha thats funny you mentioned the decicated budd wrench. I actual have two different one leaning in the corner next to my tire machine. I beat on things with em. Lol. I actually just was trying to help my tire machine undo a tire on a 35 ford wire wheel with it. Maybe i was giving to hard of love taps, but long story short, the wheel is now junk. I guess 85 year old spokes were atad bit tired. Another funny thing about that tool is that i never used it to remove a lugnut. Go figure.

Once you deflate an RH-5 you should NEVER re-inflate them...that's when they blow apart...they should go straight to the scrap man. Your playing with fire here...there's a reason they were out-law'd and got the name "Widow Maker" .

Be Safe!

Mike B

“There used to be a dedicated Budd Wrench: hex on one end square on the other. It was sort of like a slide type breaker bar with a section of 1-1/4 round stock that slid back and forth through a hole in the section with the sockets on it. Hell for stout.”
I have one of those I picked up years ago. The bar with the hex on one end and square on the other, with a hole through it part. Got it in a box of junk at a farm sale. Now I know what it is.