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OK, I see. Don't think in your case you will use the black or the brown. Do you understand the ignition switch test? Do you have a multimeter? It's OK if you don't do the test. But I don't know which one is battery terminal on that switch.

Do not use any fork tongue terminals in your wiring. Only ring tongue. Cut off the red just in front of black splice and crimp on a ring tongue terminal with correct wire size barrel and correct hole size for terminal.

I’m trying to test it now I have a cheap harbor freight multimeter. Trying to figure it out.
Ok to to fork terminals. What’s it issue with those

Good deal. Just read the instructions for continuity. You will have 3 sets of terminals to check. If they were marked A B C....Check AB AC BC

Can a ring tongue come off? the answer is negatory.

Can a fork tongue "fork off". Uh Huh.

I don’t know if I’m doing it correctly. I have the multimeter set to 2000k on the ohms, With the key off, only 1 terminal makes the multimeter go to 000 from 1 on the screen. All 3 terminals do that when red and black lead touch the same terminal. Example with the black lead from multimeter touching terminal A and red lead touch terminal A it goes to 000 from 1 on the screen. From A to B terminal nothing, from A to C nothing.
With the key “0n” they all go to 000 from 1 on the screen

I found this doing a google search: it’s the same ignition switch

The Ignition Switch is what you use to connect Switched power. The only time switched power allows an accessory to be provided with electrical energy is when the ignition key is turned on. Ammeter Negative is the connection to the starter/battery directly. The one labeled Fuel Gauge is your switched terminal. So, anything that you require to be switched, you must stack on to that one terminal. This is generally not a problem since there are a limited number of accessories to begin with. If this becomes a problem you can always add a fuse/terminal block. It would not be hard to do, but most people do not find it necessary.

And this...

The three terminals on 47-54 truck ignition switch are --
> Ignition (Coil & Fuel Gauge)
> Power Source (Ammeter)
> Accessory Terminal (Empty, switched with ignition key)

I have the terminals connected like this on my "stomp starter" '54 3100 with the ignition switch installed in the dash and looking at it from the driver's seat:

> Left terminal: Coil and Fuel Gauge
> Bottom terminal: Ammeter
> Right terminal: Heater blower and Cigarette lighter - so that it will switch off anything plugged into the lighter when the switch is turned off. Cig lighter was probably not switched originally)

Set it to 200 ohms. (lowest setting). If you have a symbol .) ) ) Set it to that instead of 200 ohm. That is a buzzer.

Put the black plug into the COM jack. Put the red plug into the VΩmA Jack. Does not matter which probe you use to touch terminals. One probe on one Ign switch terminal, other probe on another ign switch terminal. Assign a letter to each of the terminals A, B and C. u] Hold probes on the terminals for several seconds, let the reading settle. [/u]

You can use tape on the terminals with A, B and C marked if you wish. Any method to keep track.

You can touch the two probes together before you start to hear beep or see a value on the screen as a test. You will hear a beep or see a value on the display.

What are the readings or beeps between these sets (SWITCH OFF):

A and B (one probe on A , one probe on B)

A and C (one probe on A, one on C)

B and C (one on B, one on C)

Do the test again at 2000 Ohms

Give exact results Like 2.0 or 0.2 or .001 or 0.00 or 000..whatever

Bottom line is that you can't hurt anything as long as you put 33 and 30 on different terminals. Even then you wouldn't hurt anything, but you won't be able to turn motor off.

Ok thanks great instructions bartamos
At 200
A to B nothing
A to C nothing
B to C nothing

At 2000
A to B nothing
A to C nothing
B to c nothing

You only needed three tests.
A to B
A to C
B to C

You are testing things like A to A. Does that mean you are touching both probes on the same terminal? If you touch the same terminal with both probes, it's the same as touching the probes together. That will always give a reading on the meter. Also: A to B is the same as B to A. You are running wild brother.

In a continuity test, the meter is passing a small current thru one of it's wires and wants to see if the current returns to the meter thru the other wire. If it does, it displays a number on the screen. It does not matter what the number is, Just that there is a number. THE NUMBER CAN BE ZEROS. If you touch the two probes together, obviously the current passes back into the meter and you see a number. That's why you touch them to see if everything it working before testing something.
If a person has two ends of a wire but doesn't know if the wire is broken somewhere in the middle, they do a continuity test. They touch the black probe on one end of the wire and the red probe on the other end of the wire to see if they get a reading on the display screen. If they do, the wire is not broken. In your case, you are testing to see which terminals are "connected" inside the switch when the switch is off and when it's on.

Most meters show a "1" when you set them to test continuity. In other words when you turn the meter on. This means "no continuity". If the "1" changes to zero (000/00/0) or near zero, when you touch probes to something you are testing, or touch probes together, it means there is continuity. Current is passing thru and back to meter. I know it's weird that zeros mean continuity.

Please advise if the meter displays a "1" when turned on/set for continuity.... or displays "OL".

We are trying to find out which terminals are connected inside the switch (showing continuity/a reading on the meter) and which are not.
Also, I don't know what a reading of "nothing" means. Zero's or screen is blank? Looks like using 200 ohms is the best setting. So now explain what "nothing" means. I expect that when you turn the meter on, you see some sort of number.

Next: same test with switch ON.
A two position switch means there is OFF and there is ON. It does not mean there is Off and then two positions. If "nothing" means you got 000, you had the switch "ON".

Continuity can be used to find a short to ground. A whole other story.

Ok I get it. Meter turned on @ 200 it’s “1”.
When I was testing by saying nothing I meant screen stayed at “1”. No continuity on A to B, A to C, B to C.
With key “ON”
A to B @ 02.7
A to C @ 03.2
B to C @ 03.2
It’s a 2 position switch

I guess we didn't prove anything. I thought that since ON and ACC were the same thing, that the simple rotary switch would have them already connected inside so that the "wiper" design is simple. Very interesting.
Anyway I don't see where it makes any difference which is used for battery, they are all dead when off and all live when on.
I wonder what an original switch shows?

Very good job by the way. Good man. Welder/harness installer!!!!!!!!!
Screw them wires on there, stick that switch on the dash and move to the next thing. Progress is fun and motivational. After I do something good, I just get a chair, sit back, stare at it and drink something.

Even if we didn’t prove anything Ive learn a lot. Thank you. I also wonder what a original switch reads? I’m Not done though. Going to go wire the ignition switch. I’m sure I’ll be back soon with more questions.

Stovebolt is open 24/7/365. 366 this year! A whole extra day to talk wiring...oooooooooorah.

Hey guys I’m back with the need for more help. Well I been working on the engine. Today I was going to start it but after testing my electrical I noticed I have no power going to the fuel gauge. I tested the gauge power wire with a light tester and no power.
The fuel gauge is wired as follows: fuel gauge pink #40 Is on sending unit terminal and gauge power Red #9 to voltage reducer to the hot terminal at the gauge. The fuel gauge pink #40 out to sending unit on gas tank and a ground wire from sending unit to the frame.
That’s how I have it.
Am I supposed to ground it at the gauge cluster also?
Or do I run a wire from the ignition to the fuel gauge like the 47 wiring diagram shows.
Thanks guys

I don't remember and did not go over all of this post BUT..........

The harness is not set up for a reducer, it is set up for 12V. So by following the instructions you attached the correct red wire to the ignition switch and per instructions you attached the correct red wire to the gauge. Normally the harness and it's fuse panel takes care of the circuit.
HOWEVER......you have a reducer. So, how did you hook up the reducer? You probably put it in series on the wire to the gauge? Is that what you did?

If that is the situation, take off red wire at the gauge, turn on ignition switch and put a tester between disconnected end of red wire and a good ground. (this would be after the reducer). Should get 6V. Then put tester before reducer to good ground. Should get 12V. Report or ask more if not sure.

"Am I supposed to ground IT at the gauge cluster also?" WHAT IS "IT"?

"Or do I run a wire from the ignition to the fuel gauge like the 47 wiring diagram shows." Don't think so.

If you don't have power on the end of the wire to the gauge, nothing else matters.

I don’t have power to the gauge power wire.
What do you think could cause that? I have power to the ammeter and headlights starter and alternator.

PM sent. Please answer my questions above? and here. Why did you not confirm/report the test I gave you? I/E. No reading on either side of reducer? Check the gauge power fuse and any other fuse involved.

The answer is you have something wired wrong, or a blown fuse or bad ignition switch or a bad reducer or you didn't turn on the ignition or the battery is dead or a wire fell off...........to find it, it takes a little testing/tracing/logic/answers from you. It can't be ground because you used a good clean ground on the tester tonight, right? Run a wire from the battery negative post to the tester ground lead when you test for voltage, that will eliminate all chassis ground problems and tell us it is a voltage problem for sure.
Is there power to the ignition switch? On the BAT terminal on the rear of switch.

Read the PM too!

I hooked up 1 side of the reducer to the gauge power wire and the reducer to the hot terminal on the fuel gauge itself.
“IT” I was referring to the harness instructions, they show the fuel gauge grounded. Sorry.
With the ignition on there was no reading on either side of the reducer, not even to the gauge power wire. I have checked the fuses and all fuses are good. Yes there is power to the ignition switch, with the ignition turned on. Yes to good clean ground.

The fuel gauge is usually grounded buy it's mounting in the cluster. It's case touching metal. That is not a problem right now.