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#1352104 03/28/2020 4:55 PM
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Hey everyone - Sorry to barge in. I am new to Stovebolt and am not familiar with protocals or fomalities. I decided to take on some of the small projects in my '51 I have been putting off. I finally fixed the heater fan. The previous owner, may father, had fried the circuit with a 6v switch after we did a 12v conversion. I am replacing other interior wiring that where the sheaths are rotting. I am working on sound proofing the cab so I can hear my wife talking to me while we cruse at 70 on the freeeway....maybe rethink that last one...scratch that, so I can hear my radio... Any expertise on sound deadening from the wise would be appreciated. Bruce


Bruce Diehl
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Posts: 7,440
Bolter
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Got to your local big box building supply and get some of the peel and stick aluminum faced insulation. Very effective and easy to work with.🛠


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
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Thanks, I will check that out, first thing tomorrow, if Home Depot is open during the lock down.


Bruce Diehl
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The peal and stick will help a lot.
New door seals and windlace will help also.
One other thing is where the windlace is slid into a C-channel, there are gaps to facilitate installation. These leak air real bad.
Also, sometimes the C-channel has gaps where it was spotwelded to the cab.
I seal both of these areas with Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker. Have a rag wet with acetone handy for quick cleanup on the surrounding painted areas.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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I recently did a small, easy job which resulted in the unexpected bonus of Less Noise when going down the road. After years of procrastination, I followed 52Carl's advice on adjusting the hood. My truck's hood was about 1/2" too high at the back (near the windshield). To lower it I loosened the 4 bolts under the dash, used a ratchet strap to pull the hood down and tightened the bolts.

I had over the years taken all the normal steps to quieten the '51 to include; 1. Remove doors and install new door gaskets. 2. Remove interior and cover everything (including inside doors) with peel and stick. 3.Cover the floor, back of cab and roof with 3/4" dense foam rubber mat. What I observed after all this work is when you eliminate or lessen one noise, that just makes it easier to hear other noises. In my case, engine noise from the hood gap was one of the last remaining (now MUCH less) sources.

Good Luck,

RonR


RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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I used this from Lowes. Great stuff. Just buy a good small, solid roller. It has no Smell and my cab is 100% better now. Inside doors, floors, gas tank, ect. It is the same as Fatmat .
Todd
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1950 Chevy 3100
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'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Shaffer's1950
I used this from Lowes. Great stuff. Just buy a good small, solid roller. It has no Smell and my cab is 100% better now. Inside doors, floors, gas tank, ect. It is the same as Fatmat .
Todd
How thick is this Peel & Seal?


"If you can't fix it with duct tape it's an electrical problem"
1949 5 Window 3100
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We used a combination of Noico and Kilmat, both 80 mil. Owner bought it from Amazon.







Did the insides of the doors as well as roof skin. Really tightened up the panels.

.

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.045 is the Specs... I can tell you it's the same as FatMat.
I put both in my cab...


1950 Chevy 3100
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,232
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Moderator: Interiors, Texas Bolters, Name that Part
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,232
If you look under the interior forum, there is a lot of discussion that can assist you. The search options is your friend.

Chris


Moderated by  ndkid275, Phak1 

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