The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Universal wire harness

Thank if you were near me I’d buy you a case of you favorite adult beverage. I really appreciate your help, there a ton of people here and your all over it thank you

No problem but I am still editing. So give it another look in a few minutes.

I am tracking coil, I have that covered. I do not know what you are talking about Starter side terminal.?????

Do you have a foot start or a key start? Do you have a ballast resistor?

I want to further clarify the TOTALLY CONFUSING instructions for ammeter seen on these two harness instructions used by 400case and 47bomber regarding the so called "Solenoid Power Red Wire".
To wit:

IMPORTANT
AMP METER INSTRUCTIONS
IF YOU ARE USING AN AMP METER YOU
WILL NEED TO ROUTE THE 10 GA
SOLENOID PRW-RED WIRE FROM
THE FUSE PANEL TO THE AMP METER AND
THEN FROM THE OTHER POST OF THE AMP
METER OUT TO YOU POSITIVE BATTERY
SOURCE. DO THIS BEFORE INSTALLING

What they are saying is CUT OFF the 10ga wire (which is shown on their NON Ammeter diagram as going from fuse panel directly to solenoid battery hot stud) and attach it to an ammeter post. Then take the rest of the wire that you have cut and attach one end to the other ammeter post and one end to the solenoid battery hot stud. Their "solenoid power" wire from the fuse panel feeds all the load. It feeds the hot side of several fuses. So you are putting the ammeter in series between the loads and the battery.
In summation, both sides of the ammeter are using the same 10ga red wire supplied in the harness. You are cutting it short, terminating it and reusing the cut off piece for the other side of the ammeter. This cut off wire piece is the one that goes thru a fusible link, or other suitable fuse, on it's way to the battery.

What is confusing for me is two guys with same basic truck and same basic harness. Trying to keep track of who's who or is it whom's who. See, I'm going knutty. I enjoy helping them both. They are getting great advise from other members also.

Key in dash for on and off. Foot button which pushes button on starter.

With the picture you sent, I get it now. Thanks, I did not know I had to change that. button on the starter. Thanks!!!!

So what about a ballast resistor? Did you get an internally resisted coil or externally resisted coil? FYI, you are missing questions already asked.
The links are from Tim and were appreciated.

If you mean by "ballast resistor" you are speaking of the 12 volt switch on top of the starter--I ordered that, and thank you. If something else, I don't know what you mean.

The side terminal button switch, a ballast resistor and an externally resisted 12V coil are all parts of a bypass circuit/points saving circuit we can help you wire up. It's a fairly simple part of a 12V conversion. Read the Stovebolt tip section regarding 12V conversion to get familiar with it.

Ok I think I understand now... I ordered a starter switch with a side terminal. I assume I put an inline ballast resistor on the wire to the starter and hook it to this side terminal...

This and this.

Wire from ignition switch "ON" to one side of ballast, other side of ballast to coil positive. (Mount resistor to firewall with good air flow.)

Wire from side terminal to coil positive.

Start motor and drive to Mugs Up.

The painless harness has a wire that goes to the coil and a separate wire that goes to the starter... The coil is 12 volt, so I will only use the ballast resistor to the starter. Correct?

The Ballast Resistor has nothing to do with the starter. It is in the ignition circuit.🛠

These Hot Rod universal harnesses are not really designed for our AD trucks. They try to cover ammeters and foot starts and 12V conversion and generators and voltage regulators. When installing one of these it's a little hard, especially for a person who has not done it. We have to try and follow the harness instructions and at the same time accommodate the older system requirements I just mentioned. So here, in this thread, we are doing that for two guys at once, asking about these older system requirements. Trying to follow the instructions. It's very hard to explain when I don't have the instructions, the diagrams and the schematics that you have so we can talk the same language that is used in the harness instructions. So I can see what they say and re-interpret them for you and add what is needed/not needed for older systems. All the while factoring in any modern changes the poster has made.

One person has supplied that info. One has not. So, I'll wait. I have asked very politely already and have been ignored. Post number 1351310

If for some reason they can not be supplied I will do my best to answer generically. (no guarantees)

Mr./Mrs. 400case: The ignition start and run is wired as I described above. 1351480. I will assume the wire "that goes to the coil" is a harness wire that actually comes from the ignition "ON", but is not apparent because it's in a bundle. That is the wire that goes to one side of the ballast resistor. Install a wire from the other side of ballast to the coil positive. Secondly, I assume the "wire that goes to the starter" is intended for an electromagnetic solenoid, which you do not have. So that wire is unused. Then there is only one other thing to do, install a wire from side terminal to coil positive.

Explanation of the Ballast/side terminal wiring, known as the bypass resistor system.
The wire thru the ballast resistor powers the coil/points during normal driving. It reduces the 12V to about 9V to save the points, make them last a long time. 12V is too much. So turn the ignition to ON and coil gets 9V. However, during starting the starter steals a lot of voltage/huge amp draw and starves the points that are already only 9V. Sooooooooo when you push the foot button the huge stud connects the battery to the starter motor and it spins. At the same time the side terminal is energized and a direct wire to the coil "bypasses" the ballast resistor to give the coil a better voltage. When you lift your foot, the side terminal disconnects. This idea is also used on a electromagnetic starter solenoid. This is the "R" terminal. It's exactly like the side terminal.

When I or anyone says bypass resistor. It's a tricky word. The resistor itself is being bypassed, but on the other hand, it is "bypassing" 12V battery voltage.

My painless wiring harness manual is labeled 90625, for harness number 10104, 21 circuit.

The truck is being converted to a GM 12 volt alternator with a electronic ignition distributor from a 1983 S-10 with a 2.8 V-6.

Attached are the pictures and pages from the Painless manual that applies to these questions. I assume no ballast resistor is needed as this will be a 12 volt system. I do NOT have a tachometer.

I will send another with my 6th attachment.

6th attachment...

Good info. Looks like it covers every scenario.

IF HEI: No ballast, no side terminal, coil is inside HEI.

This is a new one on me. Didn't expect this info to be held back. Never heard of someone with a foot start and 1983 2.8 V6 with HEI. It's like Fred's Flintstones Footmobile with Bluetooth.

So you have a 1983 2.8 V6? What motor do you have? You can't have a foot start starter with a newer motor. Did you adapt an HEI to a 46 motor?
I'm in a tizzy right now. Very confused. I'm on blood thinner already buddy. I wrote all that ballast crap for nothing!!!!!! I've been hornschwaggled!!!!!!!!!!!!

No, 1958 235, with a 2.8 V6 distributor with the shaft modified to slide into the 235. Going back to earlier, how do I wire this thing?

1. Pink wire (920) to coil?
2. Purple (919) to starter?
3. Anything from starter to coil?

You have a unique situation. Foot start/12V/HEI ........ no need for bypass resistor, side terminal or externally resisted coil.

Thank you so much for your patience with me and your help. I don't know how I could do this without everyone's help!

Also: Thank you for what you do.

I was reading what you said in post 1351310. I’m about to wire my fuel gauge and I see two ways of wiring it.

On the harness instructions it says to use the Gauge Power wire #9 (that would go to the hot side)?
Pink #40 Fuel Gauge wire I’m thinking it’s for the sending unit because it goes all the way to the tail end with the tail lights, so pink to other post on fuel gauge.

The other way I see. Is to run a wire from the ignition to the hot side of the fuel gauge and the pink #40 wire to other post out to sending unit. Like it shows in the 47 wire diagram.
How close to the fuel gauge should I put the gas gauge voltage reducer?

I will assume the wire numbers and colors you gave are correct.
1. #9 powers the gauges. The hot terminal of gauges. If there are 12V gauges and 6V gauges you have to "split" #9. You can tie #9 to the 12V gauge, then jumper to the gas gauge with reducer inline in that jumper wire. Any method that accomplishes the task. As you said, I guess #9 can go to the 12V gauge and another wire from ignition switch "ON" to the gas gauge with a reducer in that line. (that's no good if the harness is fusing all gauges). When they started using fuses, and up to at least 1966, gauges were not fused. Power came off the ignition switch "ON" terminal. They would be indirectly fused if the power to ignition switch had a fusible link. Maybe the harness does that and it's not apparent until you follow #9. It may be done via the ammeter instruction in your case.

2. If all gauges are 6V, they each need their own reducer. Some gauges take a different reducer than others. I never had a 6V truck so I don't know.

3. One end of #40 to gauge sender terminal, other end to sender center tap.

4. If you want to learn about wiring and at the same time learn about this harness. Use a multimeter to check continuity of the relevant wires to see where they go. To a fuse panel? thru the fuse to the switched hot bar?...or bypass the fuse panel? Make a note or a drawing of all the relevant wires. Not that many in your case. See if you can figure out what they did and how it all works. The colors and markings tell you what the wires do but not how they do it. Could be enlightening. We are all cooped up anyway so plenty of time.

This does not mean I will stop helping. No problem. But it's pressure for me not to make a mistake.

The wire colors and numbers are correct. The fuel gauge is 6 volt. But the only one that gets power is the fuel gauge. Everything else is mechanical, oil,temp,and speedometer. There is a fuseable link in the positive battery source.

#9 gauge power does come from the fuse panel. If I run #9 to fuel gauge hot which is 6 volt wouldn’t I need the gas voltage reducer there? And do I still run a wire from ignition switch to fuel gauge? With the gas voltage reducer there? Or at #9

#9 to reducer, reducer to gauge. That's it. I believe the ignition switch will turn on the fuse panel and that will turn on the #9 gauge power wire. (that would be easy to test). Anyway: One end of reducer goes right onto the gas gauge power terminal. Crimp a ring tongue terminal onto #9 and screw it to the other end of reducer. There is no polarity on the gas gauge resistor/reducer.
There are quite few a members who don't use a reducer and they have had no problems. It seems like cheap insurance to me.

Continuity testing is done with NO battery power connected. The multimeter provides a small current to pass thru the wire or component being tested to see if one thing is connected to another or to find both ends of a wire. Probably need to learn how to do that.

Testing for power, with power on, can be done with a ice pick style light tester, carefully. Nothing is dangerous or tricky. You just don't touch a hot wire to chassis ground. Always have the battery negative disconnected when doing wiring or replacing a component.

Got it. Ok I think I understand now. I was trying to wire it like the 47 wiring diagram, ignition to fuel gauge. But since I have a fuse panel now...I use the fused power wires from the harness? Correct?

Not the 47 wiring diagram for powering things like headlights, instead I would use the red headlight power wire #1 and run it to where the Ammeter wire would go to the bottom terminal on the headlight switch, is that correct?

Also I was reading what you and 400case were discussing on post 1351654.
I also have a pink coil positive #55 wire. harness instructions say it goes into one side of ignition resistor, out the other side of the resistor to the coil positive side.
But I ran the pink coil positive #55 straight to the positive side of the coil, because I have a Pertronix ignitor ignition system and a 12 volt flame thrower coil. I don’t think I need a Ignition resistor. Or do I?

As for the purple wire, this harness has two. One is purple tachometer #45wire. I don’t think I use that wire. Because I have NO TACHOMETER. Correct?
2nd purple wire is. Purple #32 Ing switch start/starter solenoid. I don’t know if this wire goes to side terminal on starter switch or on the battery stud on starter?

Thanks a million bartamos and Stovebolt crew. Don’t feel pressure buddy, I’ve learned a lot, have tons of notes and making colored diagrams.

Love to help people who are eager, hard working and stay in touch. Good job. I know it's good to have help on your first wire job, especially from scratch. You guys here are the future helpers. You are not done yet, though

I haven’t ran wire fro side terminal to coil yet been cleaning yard. I’ll get to work on the truck this evening.
From the battery positive post, I have a original style 6 volt battery cable attached to the starter solenoid top bolt.
From starter top bolt I ran the 10 gauge solenoid power wire with a fuseable link to Ammeter D-.
How did I do!

So I only have 3 wires for ignition.
1) 10 gauge wire to starter from Ammeter D-
2) coil wire fro harness to coil positive.
3) wire from side terminal to coil positive
Today I’m going to try to wire the ignition switch, get ready for more questions lol.

Glad to receive thumbs up! Thank you for the lessons. I installed the Wire from side terminal on starter to the positive side of the coil. I also installed the ballast resistor. I ran pink wire #55 coil positive to 1 side of ballast terminal and from the opposite terminal to the positive side of the coil. I can see that’s correct according to you and harness instructions.
But I was reading the Pertronix instructions, added image. They say to run the Pertronix red wire to the ignition side of the ballast! Should I just remove the red Pertronix wire from the coil positive and run it to the ballast?
The engine came with the Pertronix red wire going to the positive side of the coil, and black wire to negative side of coil. I’m guessing previous owner didn’t use a ballast resistor?

>>>>>>>>>>>>> I MISSPOKE <<<<<<<<<<<<<<

There is No wire from side terminal to coil. Side terminal not used.

Looks like No Ballast Resistor if you are using their coil. (Figure A) They say,Fig B, to use ballast when you have a stock coil.

So use Fig A wiring. Pink 55 to coil Positive. Pertronix Red to coil positive. Pertronix black to coil negative.

Haha I can’t stop laughing that’s funny! So now I’ll correct those wires no biggie.
Now on to the ignition switch I ran ignition switch power wire #33 to where the Ammeter negative wire would go on the ignition switch. But ignition switch power wire #33 has a black wire on it it splits into two. Is that a ground? If so do I just ground it anywhere on the dash? It doesn’t show the black wire on the harness instructions.
Ignition switch coil wire #30 and ignition switch ignition wire #29 wires I ran to the positive side of the ignition switch where the fuel gauge wire would normally go. If it’s wrong please correct me!
I know ignition switch start wire #32 won’t be used. That leaves ignition switch Acc wire #31. Not sure where it goes, or if I use it.

One place above you describe 33 Red as going to ignition switch battery terminal. That is correct. Then in another place you say "ran some wires to the positive side of the ignition switch". Not sure what you mean. Please don't use terms like "positive side". Describe what terminal.

I saw something at 1351414 where I agreed with your statement. I see that you said "So I would run the 10GA from fuse panel to the gauge face charge post along with a wire to the ignition switch and a wire to headlight switch and the battery source from the other post going to the starter with a fusible link?" NO, not correct. 10ga, cut to correct length, to ammeter post. The cut off piece of the 10ga goes from other ammeter post to and thru the fusible link, or MIDI fuse, to starter hot stud. That part you said correctly. That is all that is connected to the ammeter as I see it. The ignition switch/headlight switch wires you mention in that statement are taken care of by following the instructions. The instructions do not say to attach them to the ammeter.

Go back and read what I said to you or 400case about cutting/terminating 10 Ga Red "solenoid power" wire, as they call it, to the ammeter. At 1351464

Yes I’m looking at 33. Image will explain better than I.

One of The problem I’m having is The ignition switch doesn’t have any markings on it. The only thing I see Is one terminal sticks out and the other two don’t. It’s a original type ignition switch from Classic Parts #53-405. I’m assuming the terminal sticking out is Battery terminal?
So I would only use #33 Red and #30 Pink for ignition switch. Im coiling up and tied unused wires, haven’t cut any off. I am installing turn Signals. Looking to buy a Signal-Stat 900 or something similar.

Sorry I meant to say the “ON”terminal on ignition switch for wires #30 & #29. And wire #33 to battery terminal.

Yes I thought I was getting power from the ammeter to headlights, ignition and so on. But I’m getting power from assigned power wires like it says in the harness instructions. Headlight power to headlight battery terminal, gauge power to fuel gauge, and ignition power to ignition battery terminal.

Is the ignition switch just on/off? Two key positions only?

Yes on and off. Put key in, 1 click to right. Back to left key comes out.

It is said that the "bottom" terminal, when mounted in dash, is the Battery hot.
Test switch without wires attached. See if, when switch is OFF, there is only one set of two terminals that are still showing continuity to each other. Those would be the NON battery terminals. "ON" and "Acc". Then when switch is ON, all three will show continuity. Yes? No?

Yes on 33 and 30.

Are you saying that the Brand New harness came with that black wire spliced to the red? Was the black wire cut off like that?

Who put the terminal on the end of the red in pic?

Yes the harness came with the black wire spliced to the red power wire and they attached to 2 different ignition plugs. I cut off the 2 supplied harness plugs for the ignition harness since I don’t have that type of plug. I put the terminal on the red wire.
In the image you can see the red wire on the white plug and black wire was on black plug but spliced together.