The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Hard Start

She cranks great but hard starting. When I step on the button she cranks, but will usually only fire right at the end of the cranking when I let off the starter.It's like the ignition isn't getting much juice when the starter is cranking. Once running, she's great. Here's the situation:
1949 Chevy 6400 (2 ton dump bed) with a 216 engine. Converted electrical to 12 volt: 12 volt battery, new alternator, 6 volt starter, voltage reducer for the coil. Many new wires...I replaced the STEEL wire from the coil to the distributor with a copper one since it was mainly bare. I remember somebody saying the steel wire was important for the resistance in the circuit. Anybody able to confirm this? Could this be the problem? I have no idea how to trouble shoot this...
Decent compression. Points OK, plugs OK.
I have pulled the starter and cleaned. Replaced gear and bushing.
Fuel OK, when I shoot starter fluid at it, it's still is hard to fire, so I'm pretty sure it's an ignition problem...Any ideas would be appreciated

Have you done anything tune up wise? Compression check? Carb rebuild?

I checked compression a couple years back, 100 and even. She has good power when running. I guess I could check again. Carb cleaned. It has had this hard start for the last 5 years or so. It sat for the last two years but I'm getting her going again for some work this summer. Back 10 years ago she started much easier....But I can't point to one thing I did to cause the change. But I have made a lot of changes. 12 volt conversion.

No resistance wire used in 1949, so copper wire is good. Did you install a resistor bypass wire when you installed the resistor? The resistor should be bypassed while cranking.

The nickel/chrome (not steel) resistance wire was used between the ignition switch and the coil on early 1960's and later models instead of a ballast resistor to drop the voltage to the coil during normal running. To assist in getting the engine cranked, a bypass wire was run from the starter solenoid or foot switch on 12 volt stovebolt engines. Check the voltage at the (+) terminal of the coil while the engine is cranking- - - -it should be a minimum of 9-10 volts. If not, install a foot switch for a 55-up 235 starter, the one that has a small terminal on the side as well as the big one for the battery cable, and run a wire from that connection to the coil (+) terminal. Rock Auto lists that switch in their online catalog. If the ballast resistor is installed properly between the ignition switch and the coil, you should be getting 9-10 volts to the ignition switch side of the coil (+) during normal running.
Jerry

Mr. Lincoln: Thanks so much. That was the advice I needed!! I'll go do it!

Just for giggles, clean the points. Its easy, free, and a common problem which causes hard starts. New points often have something on them which should be cleaned off before installing them for good measure.
If that results in it starting up, shut it off and don't run it until you do what Hotrod Lincoln has advised about the resister and special switch on the starter. Straight 12 volts will ruin the points.
Carl

Tie up this thread. I had cleaned the points. I got that starter button with the momentary terminal on the side and now works great.Stats so much easier. The side terminal just gives it 12V while cranking, then goes through the resistor for 6-9 volts at running.

Good show dschmidt.
I have to 'giggle'. (See my earlier post for why.)
Carl