The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop securing to an engine stand

newbie question


I removed the bell housing and assume to mount the engine stand to the back of the block where the bell housing attaches to. is that the best location for mounting? any better location?

I believe I had an engine mounted here prior and somehow it fell over. it's been a year or two and I forget.

What type of engine stand do you have - the one that fell over?
What is the weight rating of your stand that fell over?

Some examples of styles are attached.

That is the location. If you are asking about a 235 and you happen to have the engine stand sold commonly by Harbor Freight and others, you will probably need to slightly modify it to fit the bolt holes (meaning you will need to drill at least 2 new holes in the stand mounting plates). And you may have to buy a box of washers to use as spacers. If you have a different (older and made in the USA) stand, you may not have to do this, but the 235 mounts somewhat differently than small block V8s and others. At any rate be very careful and use new bolts. The 235 is both heavy and long and those factors work against you. Good luck.

To get the proper help you must post what you are working on with every new thread. Year, make and model.

My stand is more like the one Tim showed in his first image (from the left) and I never could make all 4 of the mounting spots line up correctly.

clarification I have a 59-62 261. the stand is now mounted to the engine. the stand i am using is a bolt together stand where the front bolts to the middle and the back wheels mount to the bottom of the upright. I put the plate sideways to catch all 4 bolts to the back of the block. seems to be ok for now. i have not moved it around much and the engine hoist is still there just in case connected to the chain i pulled the engine out of the truck with

the stand is like the top left above pictured.

I bought new grade 8 bolts to attach with

I "played around" with the stand's engine-mount-fingers (and plate) to get a completely stable assembly.

I could roll easily/safely roll the engine in and out of my garage (for cleaning and painting).

My stand was the stand on the right (in my earlier post).

what's the secret to getting it so clean?

so I guess I'm going to the dollar store to get some oven cleaner tomorrow to get this one cleaned up. the engine block number is 3769925 so it's a 59 - 62 261

Tim's method works perfectly and that is what I used. Notice that the top two arms are used as spacers and the bottom two are used as arms.

If this is directed to me (my 261 engine, above), I used a small soda blaster.
Sprayed it off with a slightly-acid white-vinegar/water solution, and quickly wiped that dry.

The spray-can hi-temp engine-paint is still on that 261 engine in my Suburban - since around-about 15 years ago.

My 261 is currently on an engine stand in my shop. The two top bolt holes on the engine were too close together for the engine stand to bolt up. I used a piece of flat bar to make an adapter bracket.

Also, the 261 being so long, I keep the piece of 4x4 under the front engine mount, while the 261 is sitting there on the stand. It makes me feel better about all that weight hanging there on those four bolts on the back of the engine.

is the 261 same length as 235?

For the same year engines - Yes

The 235 and 261 water pumps were longer (stuck out further) in 1955-2nd and later.

That is why Pre ‘68 Dave’s water pump relocation plate is a pre-1955nd truck owner’s
“savior”.

All 216/235/261 blocks and heads are the same length.

in order to mount in my 1947 truck I know the front mount needs to change from the side mount to the mount behind the timing cover. so everything else should be the same?

Spicoli01 (and others),

In order to have your post understandable to readers/members who are using small-screen devices, you might want to put more information in each of your posts.

Something like:

in order to mount my 59-62 261 in my 1947 truck, I know the front mount needs to change from the side mount to the mount under the timing cover - so, everything else should be the same?

No, you will still/also have to use Pre- '68 Dave's water-pump relocation plate (with your 1947 water pump on your 59-62 261 block).

And, if you will still have a 6v truck/starter, you will need to use your 1947 "6v" flywheel and clutch assembly.

Once the cylinder head is installed on a stovebolt six, the engine has a tendency to be extremely top heavy. By using a piece of 1/2" X 2" steel flat bar bolted across the upper bellhousing mounting holes, it's possible to use all the support arms effectively to move the pivot point of the stand up a few inches to avoid the problem of the engine swinging upside down violently if it's not clamped tight into the stand. An unexpected movement like that can cut someone's fingers off in an instant if they happen to get into a pinch point.
Jerry

I'll work on it.

figured since I've already mentioned the details earlier I wouldnt need to continue listing the details

You switched topics thus confusing those trying to help. Always start a new thread when changing topics. Thanks

sorry to all.

No problem, Spicoli01

We will get over it.

Keep asking questions and keep working on your truck.

who's the most knowledgeable in here about these inlines

Everybody- - - - -just ask 'em!
LOL!
Jerry

Now that made me laugh, thanks Jerry!

for my 1959-62 261 that is going into my 1947 chevrolet 1/2 ton pickup truck, color undecided as of yet but leaning towards a blueish green, I was planning to use my parts I have collected for the 235 that now is to be my backup engine. I have a dual carb mcgurk intake, split fenton headers, dual point mallory distributor.

I have read about cutting down the 848 head to increase combustion. is it worth porting and polishing the head while i am rebuilding the 261? any other tips and tricks to increase performance on a streetable engine. for clarification I am talking about using the 261 now as my immediate choice of engines. the mention of the 235 is what I had planned to use but now with the new purchase of the bigger engine it would seem silly not to use it and have the 235 waiting in the wings as a back up just incase some thing were to happen.

are the aluminum timing gears better than the fiber gear? I had a bad experience with the fiber and took 16 teeth off of one coming back from austin one time. v

If you want to use the Bluish Green exterior color used in 1947 (Seacrest Green), check the Tech Tips.

"I have read about cutting down the 848 head to increase combustion. is it worth porting and polishing the head while i am rebuilding the 261? "

Have you drilled the extra coolant passages in 848 head - to match the extra passages in the 261 block?
The 6 additional holes have to be drilled at a slight angle (there are posts about this).

If you can port/polish the head, go for it. I bet that was not done by most members when they rebuilt a 216/235/261 engine. There are experts here who have done this, and they will probably comment on this.

The aluminum timing gear is stronger - it was used in trucks.
The fiber timing gear is supposedly quieter - it was used in cars.
If you had a bad experience with a fiber gear, use an aluminum gear (you will sleep easier).

By the way, the title of this thread is "securing to an engine stand".
You could rename it "moving through topics".
Just change the name in the Title Box (or, better to start a new thread for each new/different topic).

Now into 4 different topics in a thread about securing the engine to a stand. Help out the search engine and start new threads please.

so many rules.

Putting dual carbs and headers on a 235 head is like tying a couple of tow chains together with zip ties. The design of the stovebolt ports is sort of like a glorified 1930's farm tractor engine, and nothing you can do to them is going to improve the breathing enough to justify going to the trouble and expense of hanging what amounts to eye candy on there. P.T. Barnum is alive and well- - - - -these days he's fleecing suckers by selling hotrod parts to stovebolters!
Jerry

Spicoli01, you have a Private Message. Click on the flashing envelope at the top of the page to view it. Thanks

Tempted to add a smart-aleck question about tires
just to add more topics ... ha ha , but no -
remember, guys - as we (finely) age, we're not
as strong as we were. Muscling around blocks
with heads can be a ' 2 guy job '. Don't get cocky.