The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Anyone have front disk brake caliper clearance Issues?

Hi - So I just installed the front disk brake kit from LMC on my 48 `1/2 ton. The kit is from CPP and states it should work on 15" and up wheels.

I have original 16" steel wheels. I am waiting to order some radials...and while waiting, I took one of the wheels to see how it fit over the disk brakes.

I know, I know .... I should have checked for clearance issues before mounting. Being 16" I thought I was good.
Also...Yes, I'm measuring the wheel properly as 16".

Looks like I would need a good part of the corner of the calipers ground down to clear. Or, maybe wheel spacers??

Anyone else experience this?

Thanks!
Steve

Oh no....I just back to the add and read the below.

"Requires use of 15-inch or larger diameter wheels originally designed for use with disc brakes."

"Originally designed?"

Wheels originally designed for disc brakes are built differently than our vintage truck wheels. If you look at the back side of your wheel, you'll see it steps down in diameter twice from the bead to where the center section welds to the rim. That second step will be smaller (larger diameter) or non-existent on a disc brake wheel. I was able to put disc brakes on my '46 with the original 16" wheels with the use of spacers and a little grinding of the caliper, about 1/16" off the crown. My kit was from a different vendor but the one shown online for yours looks very similar.

Steve

yep, it looks like if I upgrade the spacer in the kit to about a 7/16" along with a little haircut to the caliper, I'll be close...I hope

When I stepped down from a 17" rear wheel to a 16" on my Ram 1500, I also had to space the wheel out 3/4" and install longer studs. Even with some pretty vigorous grinding on the caliper, a 1/2" spacer just wasn't enough. I was compensating for a torque converter clutch that just refused to stay engaged unless I was running 75 MPH or so. Every time I'd tip in on the throttle, the converter clutch would disengage.
Jerry

Plan B might be replace the stock rims with modern safety bead rims 16” when you replace the tires.

That would solve the clearance problem and tire retention on the rim if pressure is lost.

I think I would have gone the plan B route if I didn't already take the original wheels to a shop to have the flat spots trued up. Keeping everything as original on the truck as I can with exception of the front brakes and master cylinder...Going to go with radial ply look-a-likes with tubes...

Today I got the air grinder out and quickly took some of the caliper corner back. I then took the other wheel's spacer off, and doubled it on the one I'm testing, and it looks like I'll be good.

So in short, if I use 1/2" worth of spacing on each wheel, along with some reduction on the proud corners of the calipers, it looks like I should end up with enough stud thread to work with. Off to NAPA tomorrow....thanks

Just make sure that your wheel studs are long enough to work with the spacers.