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Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 34
1
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
1 Offline
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 34
Looking for some tips / suggestions on 2 things = removing engine and what tests I should be doing on replacement engine before installing.

1st = I have the shop manual and have reviewed the instructions. Anything I need to do or mark before removing the hood to ensure when I reinstall it will have a good fit? Any tricks or tips when removing the engine?

2nd = I purchased a "rebuilt" 1952 235 truck engine based on the block & head casting numbers.. Previous owner bought it from a "friend" but never installed it in a vehicle so I know nothing about the rebuild. After some prepping of the engine, it starts good, and is running well. Compression test - 140,135,140,130,140,145,145. Oil pressure about 15 at idle. Couple gaskets are leaking and need replaced. What else should I be doing?

First time doing this so any help is appreciated.


Mike

1952 -3100 with '52 235 Iowa farm truck "Cecil"
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
Seems like you are doing good. Motor seems good if no water, air, gas or oil leaks. Not sure about a 52 but if a hood fits good, I always drill two 1/8 holes thru hinge and hood before loosening bolts... or thru any other attachment points. Drill them as far apart as possible. I use drill bids in the holes as "pins" when reassembling. Gets it in the exact same spot.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,404
J
Former Workshop Owner
Former Workshop Owner
J Offline
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,404
I always scribe around the hinges before removal.

John


~ J Lucas
2006 GMC Envoy 4.2 I6
2023 Ram 2500/Cumins 6.7 I6
2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Wife’s)
2002 Silverado 2500 Gas 6.0
1941 Chevy 1/2-Ton
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,483
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,483
You can always put the hood back in the same spot by using masking tape. Place it over the hinge and hood before removing. Then cut at the joint with a razor blade. Never fails. This by the way is how they'd do it in many body shops.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
C
'Bolter
'Bolter
C Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,832
No reason to remove hinge unless you want to paint underneath it or replace rubber gasket. The shoulder bolts that run through hinge arms and into the hood only fit one way and they let the hood come off. If you must remove hinges then Bartamos 1/8" alignment holes are best. Sandblasting, paint, or anything else won't remove holes. A dab of dum-dum will seal the small holes forever and it's easy to scrape off to re-use holes again.
Pictures below are one way to lift engine:

Puller plate that bolts to coil mount holes:
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/G9tNc8Jz/IMG-4796.jpg[/img]

Chain around intake manifold in front of carb mount---good angle to pull engine:
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/rdtCp4wX/IMG-4799.jpg[/img]

Chain at rear of intake---engine/trans sit level:
[img]https://i.postimg.cc/GB1JH284/IMG-4800.jpg[/img]




Evan
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
E
Crusing in the Passing Lane
Crusing in the Passing Lane
E Offline
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 5,096
Another good way to securely lift engine.

Ed
Attachments
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'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.

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