What method have you used for cutting the bed sides to allow for wider wheels and tires? I'm assuming a jig saw? I don't want the bed sides to look "hacked up"...nice symmetrical arches if you will.
I've got a sheet metal nibbler attachment for a drill motor. A guy could set up a jig to guide it in a perfect circle arc. That might do the job for you. It cost me all of $25 and is two ended, so when the first side wears out, just swap to the other end and keep on going. You'd generate quite a pile of little sheet metal crescents with it for sure. Or a jig saw with a similar guide would do the trick.
This one comes with accessories for a bit more money. Amazon link
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
The above instructional video shows the same methods I used to cut a 15" hole in a car hood. After I cut the hole, I ran my pinched thumb and index finger around the perimeter of the cut hole to show someone in the shop that you can indeed cut sheet metal using snips without leaving all those "metal splinters". See here:
After I cut the hole, I ran my pinched thumb and index finger around the perimeter of the cut hole to show someone in the shop that you can indeed cut sheet metal using snips without leaving all those "metal splinters".
Robert, looking at Bill's aviation snip video (again, review is always good), I notice that he wasn't so fortunate, indicated by the bandage on his right index finger.
Anyway, my grip isn't what it used to be, and cutting a 16 gauge bedside with snips is a lot of work. That's why I recommended the nibbler. As Tim the tool man would say, "More Power"
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Dude! You need to find a way to make it to Homecoming this year! We surely would appreciate every minute of what you have to say about your knowledge with metal working. I am 61 years old and am now embarrassed that I have never known how to use tin snips, having just now watched your video above. Embarrassed is not a strong enough word. Ashamed isn't either. There must be a word the Germans use for this expression.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
I did a lot of work on the bed sides and front panel. For the long straight cuts, I took the sheets to the local HVAC contractor who charged me a nominal amount to make the cuts with the big shear. Rest of the cuts were made using saber saw with fine metal cutting blades. Cleaned up the cuts with file and sandpaper.
personally, I'd avoid a jigsaw if at all possible. my experience is the blade walks around too much to make a smooth, consistent cut. Even the nibblers walk. but i think nibblers, plasma torch, or even a pneumatic cut-off wheel would be better than a jigsaw.. aviation snips may work if it isn't too thick, but man you will have popeye arms when its all done.
personally, I'd avoid a jigsaw if at all possible. my experience is the blade walks around too much to make a smooth, consistent cut. Even the nibblers walk. but i think nibblers, plasma torch, or even a pneumatic cut-off wheel would be better than a jigsaw.. aviation snips may work if it isn't too thick, but man you will have popeye arms when its all done.
I agree with most of what you said. But a nibbler would do a fine job if you want a perfect circle cut using a radius guide. Without a guide, the cut would be a bit uneven. What I'd do is rough out the cut with a nibbler if a radius guide isn't available and go back in with aviation snips for cleanup to the final line. There's no way you could cut a 16 gauge bedside with aviation snips in one pass, because the waste has to be bent out of the way, and more than about 1/2" waste would be impossible to roll unless you're doing a straight cut, and even then I'd have my doubts. For straight cuts a jump shear or hiring it out for long cuts would be the way to go. I agree about the popeye arms. [on edit] That part that Robert said about the 1/4" waste (view Bill's how to video) is important. If you have more than that, go to something besides aviation snips.
Last edited by klhansen; 02/14/202010:14 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
