What is the boltpattern diameter? These are stud piloted. Yours should be hub piloted, are your rear wheels 10 bolt? If so, you have 5/10 on 7.25" hubs. Earliest tubeless 22.5 tires and wheels came on late '50's GM 1.5 ton trucks, hard to find, look on farm trucks. If found, need thin spacer ring(easily made) to fit to old axles. 19.5 wheels are common, look under nourished on this size truck.
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires. '47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle. '54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed. '55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
Some people have used the custom wheels from Wheels Now. They are a universal wheel that get the bolt pattern drilled to suit whatever application. Because of that they have a larger than average flat center that looks odd and in my opinion quite undesirable on an old truck. If you just want a good wheel then it's probably OK... except they are also way to wide for many old trucks. (compare width to your original) If you want a wheel to look good find an older/original wheel option.
I got 2 of these for my front wheels on my 72 c-50. Got tired of rooting around looking for originals that are one piece. They work fine. They do look a lil different but they still roll fine and make the truck useable. Now if your a show truck guy you probably wouldnt want them. But one thing I should say is my front driver side wheel does rub the steering box linkage arm when I have the steering wheel all the way cranked to the right like when backing up, but it just barely touches once my brand new tires wear a bit it will probably be fine. Or I may have went with to tall of a tire for it . But either way there isn't really any issues when driving cuz I have never had the wheel cranked like that when driving only when backing up trailers or the truck into tight spaces. And not to mention wide right turns keeps it safe.
But one thing I'd say before spending 500bucks on new front rims. Then another 1k on tires to put on them. If you have any junk yards near you look around for trucks like yours and see if they have whole axles with good serviceable rims and swap. I wish that's what I did. Cuz i had widow makers all the way around bought the front wheels cuz my windows were worn and then I had rear axle issues and did a swap and got a rear with dayton rims and decent tires for 200 bucks and could have got the front axle with same rims for 150 with decent tires. So I could have saved a lot of money going that route. Might be alot of work to change axles but to save 1200bucks I think it might be worth it.
Those dont look like split rims but I could be wrong. They are definatly old rims tho. I also didn't realize you were working with such an old truck so your probably not gonna find many salvageable donors that old but idk, you canadians could hold onto stuff longer then us Americans Haha were kinda loosing it down here.
Well i got really lucky, I came across a local deal on 4 x 8.25-20 Goodyear's for the rear end ... when we were loading them up I saw he had 2 x 7.50-20 steer tires as well so I bought those too. The guys dad used to restore old IH trucks before he passed and he had these tires in his barn. All of them are brand new... next up is my carb rebuild and 12v conversion
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
