Hi All, I upgraded my tie-rod and put new ends on my 48 1/2T. Should the tie-rod-end threads point down, putting the tie-rod higher, or should it come up from the bottom? I almost feel like I shouldn't have to ask this question...
My original steering arms have the ball pointIng up with the tie rod on top.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Thanks Phil, Initially I was going to install with the tie-rod being higher, and the ball threads pointing down (my left pic), but I had someone think it should come up from the bottom (not a stove-bolt guy). This is why I posted...thanks
If your modern design tie rod ends have tapered shanks, have you reamed the holes in the steering arms to match the taper? Putting a tapered shank in a straight hole isn't going to work at all.
One old-timer I knew who had apprenticed as a blacksmith before becoming an auto mechanic used to convert those steering arms by getting the end of the arm red hot with a rosebud torch and driving a big tapered punch into the hole. No, I wouldn't recommend trying that approach! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
The answer to your question is whether the tie rod installed on top will have enough clearance when the springs are compressed to the bump stops. Also if you're comfortable with the road clearance with the tie rod mounted below the steering arms. One consideration is whether in the extremely remote chance that the cotter pin comes out and the nut loosens up that gravity will make the tie rod fall off on the road. Mounted on top, gravity would work in your favor, on the bottom, not so much. (I did say extremely remote.)
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
As good as one that's pressed in and hot riveted? I don't think I'd want to bet my life on something like that if it's got even a little bit of a loose fit. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Jerry, I'm sure your correct. I was just asked a question about a tapper and answered. My original question was on orientation of application for others with experience using the new T/R ends...
Kevin - thanks. My thoughts on the top down direction was exactly the same thoughts you mentioned. I do have spring/bumper clearance too.
