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#1343151 01/21/2020 10:07 PM
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'Bolter
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My 3100 1952 has new hood hinges. With the spring hinges disconnected, the hood shuts and aligns perfectly however when I install the spring hinges, the hood sticks up about two inches across the cowl, both sides. Seems the hinges are too strong. They are new.


'48 Panel
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Former BMW Rider
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That's a fairly common issue when the hood has been removed/reinstalled or new hinges installed. Have you followed the hood adjustment procedures in the shop manual?

Hood Alignment

52Carl has also put together a straight-forward set of procedures that should get you the desired results.

Originally Posted by 52Carl
Here is how I do it. Much of this was gleaned from the Truck Shop Manual. I wrote it in my language so that I could understand it.
AD Front Clip Adjustment Procedure
(This procedure is for when all front clip is on the truck.)
1) Loosen all nuts and bolts associated with the front clip. ALL of them. VERY loose.
a) Completely remove the bolts which attach the rear of the inner fenders to the toe board (right side) and the parking brake bracket (left side). Removing these bolts will make it much easier to move the fenders around. Once the front clip has been adjusted and bolts tightened, these bolts can easily be replaced.
b) Drop the fenders as low as possible at the rear. This will give you room to accurately adjust the hood without interference with the fenders.

c) Adjust Fender Skirt to Dash Brace Rods.
1/2 and 3/4 ton: left 27 ¼”, right 27”.
1, 1 ½, 2 ton: left 27 ½”, right 27 ¼”


2) Hood Adjustment.
a) Prop hood open with an appropriate length of wood.
b) Loosen outer hinge bolts completely (one on each side, outside of cab).
c) Remove hood supports (springs).
d) Loosen inner hood hinge bolts (two each side, inside cab). Leave these bolts just snug so that hinge can just be moved by jarring or exerting pressure on the hood.
e) Remove hood lock plate.
f) Adjust hood fore and aft to obtain 1/8” to ¼” gap between rear edge of hood and cowl edge.
g) If hood gap is not even, or not tight against the cowl rubber seal, add or remove shims between radiator support and frame cross member and tighten radiator support bolts to 5 ft. lbs.
h) Lift front of hood and place a 4” block under hood nose to hold it up.
i) While forcing rear of hood down tightly on hood rubber seal, and ensuring that rear edge of hood-to-cowl is correct and even, tighten inner hood hinge bolts (two each side).
j) Remove wood block, lower hood and check hood fit at cowl.
k) Tighten outer hood hinge bolts (one on each side).
l) Attach hood supports (springs) to hood. With hood supported by hood supports, tighten bolts to dash. This bolt tightening procedure will prevent one hood support from being fully locked in the open position, while the other being in the partially open position.
m) Replace hood lock plate just snug, and push to the rear. Drop hood to closed position. This will center hood lock plate. Raise hood, move lock plate forward 1/32” and tighten lock plate screws.

3) Adjust front clip to fit properly adjusted hood.
a) Make sure that ALL front clip bolts are loose.
b) Raise the rear of the fenders until they contact the rubber bumpers on the underside of the hood along the sides. Tighten fender-to-cowl bolts.
c) Raise hood. Tighten fender-to-inner fender bolts.
d) Carefully lower hood and check for clearance between where the hood nose meets the fenders. The fender/inner fender assembly can be moved inboard or outboard to gain proper gap by adjusting the Fender Skirt to Dash Brace Rods.
e) Tighten remaining loose bolts.

Keep us posted on your progress, good luck.


Andy

His: 1947 Chevrolet 3104
Hers: 2008 American Saddlebred

"I proudly Stand for the Flag and Kneel for the Cross" Unknown
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I assumed that since the hood closed correctly without the springs that I wouldn't need to go through the process of loosening the cab hinges and pushing the hood rearward and downward. It's already down and back. Maybe I was mistaken. It's difficult to get two additional people here to help. I guess I need to go through it somehow just to assure myself that this is or is not the problem.

Thank you.


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Renaissance Man
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When the springs are added to the equation, they alter how the hood closes by taking out the slack in the rivets of the hinges.
Follow the instructions in the Factory manual (or my interpretation of the factory procedures referred to by HandyAndy) and it should work out for you.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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I'll try it, thanks.


'48 Panel
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Yep, you have to go through the adjustment process. I did exactly as you did my first time. Left the springs off and set the hood perfectly. Once I put the springs back on the back edge sat about 2" higher. It has to do with the slack on the hinges rivets and the fact that the hinges are designed not only to pull the hood down but also backwards towards the firewall as they close. Kind of a swooping action down and towards the firewall. It's a double action. The trick was to pop the hood and sit a 4x4 block of wood on top of the hood latch with the hood resting on it. Then using a ratchet strap across the back edge of the hood pull it down almost flush with the cowl. Loosen the hinge bolts to the body from inside the cab and let them float into place. Tighten them up and remove the strap and check the hood alignment then. You may need to repeat the process a few times changing how far you pull the back edge of the hood down with the strap until you find the magic spot. I think I pulled the back edge down to within about half an inch or so above being flush in height with the cowl.


1949 Chevy 3600
1975 W-25 Hurst Olds
1970 GMC 1/2 ton Fleetside
2010 Chevy Silverado
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"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
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Ratchet straps shouldn't be needed.

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'Bolter
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I used a ratchet strap so I could push the hood down evenly all the way across the back edge. Working single handed it helps. Plenty of blankets across the hood and fenders so as not to scratch anything.

Last edited by bztguy; 02/05/2020 2:37 AM.

1949 Chevy 3600
1975 W-25 Hurst Olds
1970 GMC 1/2 ton Fleetside
2010 Chevy Silverado
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
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Renaissance Man
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I use a 14" length of railroad rail (my anvil) on a heavy bath towel place on the rear of the hood in the middle.
The only part of the hood touching the cowl seal is at the middle due to the 4" block under the nose of the hood.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission

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