This is my second post for the day. I just purchased a 63 C60. It runs and shifts good. The two speed also works as designed. However I have brake issues. I have searched the site for tips but wanted to throw out my specific issues to see if I can get some help in prioritizing the troubleshooting. First off, I have fluid in the master cylinder and no noticeable leaks from anything. The hydrovac mounted to the frame under the driver side looks to be newer. The brake pedal is stiff but will go to the floor and eventually slow the truck down. If moving slow it will lock up the right rear and takes several seconds to finally release. I'm not sure exactly what goes on in the hydrovac, but by looking at it, vacuum comes from the manifold, down to the hydrovac. Additional vacuum lines come off. One goes to a breather in the rear corner of the cab interior by the seat and the other goes to a manifold of some sorts and then back to the two speed rear. If the rear end works, I assume the hydrovac is getting pressure. I was thinking of replacing all of the brake hoses as a start (just need to find a source). What do you guys think?
Hy smokinjoe3, there is a basic test for the Hydrovac function, before you start the truck jump in and pump the brake pedal a couple of times, now press and hold the brake pedal and start the engine, if the Hydrovac is working you should feel the brake pedal move closer to the floor once the engine starts. If the brake pedal does not change you have a Hydrovac problem. I don't want to sound negative but you could be dealing with multiple problems, seized wheel cylinders, delaminating flexible brake lines, internally corroded steel brake lines, at this point I think a complete overhaul of the braking system would be the wisest move, but do the Hydrovac test first and let us know what you find, good luck
If your hydrovac is the issue, midwest remanufacturing (708-496-9100) in Chicago area will get it rebuild and back to you in a week. Well they did for me but I'm a couple hundred miles closer to them then you so it might take another day or so and a bit more in shipping fee to ups or FedEx but they are the closest place that had a clue of what I was talking about cuz napa even told me they had no way of get a new one or parts so midwest reman. are your best bet. They gave me great service and the person over phone was very knowledgeable about what was being discussed unlike most ppl over the phone Haha so I give them 5stars....
Thank you both for the advice. I'll be back on my farm on Thursday to do some troubleshooting. MechanicMike, about how much was it to overhaul your hydrovac? Also, Can someone explain how the two speed works in relation to the hydrovac? I always thought that there was a diaphragm on the rearend that controlled it, but not mine.
Later model 2 speeds have an electric motor that moves the shifter instead of a vacuum system. Look at the 2-speed shifter- - - -does it have a switch with wires, or is there a mechanical linkage that moves a vacuum valve? The vacuum-operated rear end will have two vacuum lines and a big round diaphragm on the differential housing. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I wanna say it was like 200-300 ish for the actual rebuild and another 20-30ish to "ups". it's kinda pricey but hey its brakes and that's about your only option. The old stuffs options are limited on certain things but they sure do cost a lot less then a brand new rig of the same carrying capacity. so you gotta take the every once in a while wallet weight loss regimen to keep your cost effective rig road ready. Oh and btw they cleaned and painted mine before sending back so it looked brand new!!! So that's another reason I say 5 stars to them.
@dhjmd and where were you when I was asking questions about my hydrovac rebuild.... lol I would have considered the rebuild kit but the only option I was told was the midwest reman. But I'm satisfied now I have good brakes and it looks good under there and to top it all off I didn't have to struggle with rebuilding it, the pros done it for me in a week, probably would have took me longer and my lazy butt probably wouldn't have cleaned and painted it either haha.
DIY, I agree with you about Midwest Remanufacturing. They rebuilt my old steering box. I think the guy's name is Tom that owns it. I spoke with him a bit. His dad started the business and he grew up working on that old stuff. I have recommended him many times to others.
.... and like you said, they painted my gear box and had it looking brand new.
I finally had a little bit of time to run out to the farm to look a the brakes. I was mistaken about the two speed not having a diaphragm. It does have a small one. The supply line to the rear end does come out of the hydrovac though. You can see in the pic. A rubber hose comes out of the hydro into a tee fitting. One goes to the breather and the other goes to the two speed. When I got in the truck, I pumped up the brakes to get my pedal towards the top, then started the truck. I didn't feel any difference in pedal. Does that mean the hydrovac is bad? I did notice (and you can see in the pic) that there is a date written on the unit that make me believe if was serviced/overhauled in 2014. When I press the brakes with the engine on, I notice an change in pitch in the engine like it is using vacuum. When I turn the engine off and hit the brake a couple of times I can hear it hiss through the breather which is installed right by the seat, just aft of the door.
I looks like it's set up to share vacuum between the hydrovac and the axle. Is it just the "exhaust" from the axle's vacuum diaphram that come to the tee and then to the breather in the cab? If not, if they're actually sharing vacuum, it doesn't seem like an ideal setup to me. There is a reservoir of vacuum in the brake unit that is reduced every time you shift the axle. If the axle diaphram, hose or vacuum switch springs a leak you will lose breaking force. It might be worthwhile to install an extra vacuum tank and separate the two systems. I did this and used an air tank from a semi trailer that had appropriate mounts. I bought is new and it wasn't expensive. Be sure to use a check valve between the manifold and tank.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
Hy smokinjoe3 and guys, If you are hearing noises in the cab with the engine off and while stepping on the brake pedal you are hearing the atmosphere valve on the Hydrovac opening to allow air at atmospheric pressure to enter the apply side of the Hydrovac. Air under atmospheric pressure on one side of the bulkhead/diaphragm air under a vacuum on the opposite side of the bulkhead/diaphragm the shaft connected to the bulkhead/diaphragm will move more easily toward the side under vacuum. So your booster seems to be at least partially working, but you are not able to feel the effect so something in the system must be frozen or seized. A complete inspection and repair of the braking system should reveal the problem.
Sorry MechanicMike - a result of my build taking almost ten years now! Actually almost 13 years since I bought the truck, but getting close now. #betterlatethannever #don’tbelieveeverythingyouhear
