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#1339844 12/31/2019 1:43 PM
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How many of you out there worked on S-10 brakes over the years...particularly the early 80's models?

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I had an 83' for more than 20 years, did the rear brakes probably 3 times. Just about like most GM vehicles.


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
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'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

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Originally Posted by TUTS 59
I had an 83' for more than 20 years, did the rear brakes probably 3 times. Just about like most GM vehicles.

Great! With that much hands on experience I need your assistance in troubleshooting my S-10 brakes under this old '59. TUTS take a close look these pics...notice how the adjuster arm is not in direct contact with the star wheel. I know the star wheel teeth are worn down and I will replace it. But I'm perplexed on how this auto-adjuster is designed to work. The (2) piece design is sloppy and the spring under the arm tends to lift the arm away from contacting the star wheel that can't be right. And the the link attached to the arm is a fixed length???

What am I missing........
Attachments
DSCF0910_LI.jpg (257.52 KB, 175 downloads)
DSCF0911_LI.jpg (209.14 KB, 170 downloads)

Last edited by Apache1; 12/31/2019 2:16 PM.
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Bolter
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Ok, now I’m confused. You posted in your other thread on this subject, that you were working on a Camero rear end. Now, with the exact same photos you are working on a S-10 rear end. Which is it? What information in the other thread didn’t help? Why did you start another thread on the same subject? Self adjusting drum brakes all work basically the same. It’s obvious you are a very impatient person. Sometimes you just don’t get the answer you want on a public forum. It’s time for you to go make friends with the old man that has the old dirty garage in town and get some hands on experience. I know this may seem harsh to you but you can only ignore good advice so much until the advise dries up. Good luck.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
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Wait a minute there....I have allot of experience...30 yrs in the engine rooms aboard ships you've only seen in pictures. I've done multiple drum/disc brakes conversions, '55 Chevy, '67 Chevelle SS, '69 Pro Street Camaro....shall I go on. What business is of yours that I might just tap others experiences on specific details....it certainly shouldn't offend anyone...I asked pointed questions to one particular subject an S-10 of which I haven't dealt with and you are delving out criticism. It so happens I didn't know what rear-end I had. Yes that was an oversight but really responding in such a way....think about it.
Where in the rules does it state a member can't post multiple posts or ask a question in a different fashion.

Last edited by Apache1; 12/31/2019 3:28 PM.
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Bolter
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Why not just correct your first thread and continue on. With your previous experience you should be teaching us drum/disc conversions. Your way of doing things just clutters up the Forum. My opinion and it may not be shared by all but I am entitled to it. Carry on.


Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
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I see your point....but to that point could I have had the ability to alter the Thread Title...to appease everyone or would that have been confusing as well? Have a good New Years Eve

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I responded on the previous post. For the record GM used the same self adjuster configuration with slight changes on just about everything they produced from 1964 through the mid 80's. This includes full & mid size cars, trucks, etc. I worked on many of them in shops and on my own vehicles. As I mentioned previously, you have the incorrect spring on the adjuster arm. It looks like the correct one is on the floor in the picture. Just because parts come with the kit does not make them correct. Many of the parts that are produced today do not fit correctly. Double check the hole in the shoe and the diameter of the retainer on the hold back spring on the actuator. It has to pivot at that location and It could be binding up. You may have to mix and match some of the old parts to make it work correctly.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
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I appreciate the continued assistance and sharing your knowledge. I unfortunately tossed the old left over parts. The spring your referring to under the adjuster arm is it oval in shape??? Because all the other offerings show this spring as a beehive design.

"Hole in the shoe and retainer diameter on the hold back spring" You kind of lost me there....please clarify

It looks like in 1985 GM S-10's went to a (1) piece adjuster arm. Inexpensive kit available. Do you see any reason why I couldn't just upgrade to a (1) piece arm and eliminate any error?

Last edited by Apache1; 12/31/2019 5:47 PM.
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Some criticism aimed at all of us---myself included. We are so used to tapping computer keys we forget there are very detailed exploded drawings in old MOTORS's Manuals, (MOTOR'S and NOT Chiltons). This manual usually covered a seven year span so a 1982 to 1989 would have the drawing. We have a complete set from 1929 to the mid 70's and I ignore them until I get stuck on something; usually electrical or wiring. Something you might check out.


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Originally Posted by coilover
Some criticism aimed at all of us---myself included. We are so used to tapping computer keys we forget there are very detailed exploded drawings in old MOTORS's Manuals, (MOTOR'S and NOT Chiltons). This manual usually covered a seven year span so a 1982 to 1989 would have the drawing. We have a complete set from 1929 to the mid 70's and I ignore them until I get stuck on something; usually electrical or wiring. Something you might check out.

Yes indeed and I will be headed for a library later this week...thanks.

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Your photo shows a yellow spring and the related hardware that retains the actuator and the shoe to the backing plate. The back side of the retainer has a sleeve that goes through the actuator and the brake shoe. It may be possible that the hole in the shoe is too small or it has some sort of coating on it and could be binding and causing the tang to not set on the star wheel. My reference materials show a straight spring on some and others a beehive type design. The book I have calls it a return spring. I don't think it matters much except both are considerably smaller and weaker springs that would apply less pressure. My suggestion would be to do a test and remove the return spring and see where the actuator sets relative to the star.
Fred

Something I learned during my 50 years of working on this stuff. Don't throw anything away until you are finished and it works.

Last edited by rfs56trk; 12/31/2019 10:50 PM.

1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
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Good points and I need to place a very small amount of lube in that specific area for the reasons you mentioned. I will seek out some additional springs at the local parts house. I'm leaning heavily at this juncture to installing the one piece arm. I'm thinking the design engineers made this change for a reason. Time will tell.....


Last edited by Apache1; 01/01/2020 12:11 AM.
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First things first- - - -replace the worn adjusters so the teeth will be the right height. Then adjust the pawl to contact the star wheel by doing a little careful twisting of the pawl so it makes firm contact with the star wheel. I was working on automobiles in the late 1960's when self-adjusting brakes started being used, and I taught automotive classes at the high school and Vo-Tech school level for about 35 years. A few hundred of my students learned to do that, and it works very well.
Jerry


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[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/14196/filename/Brakes 2.jpg[/img]I finally had a few minutes to dig through my Chilton manuals for the S-10. All the pictures of the drum brakes show the adjuster under the star wheel. I included the pictures and a break down of the drum assembly. I'm not sure if I am looking at the right year for your rear axle. I hope these help.
Attachments
Brakes 1.jpg (85.78 KB, 94 downloads)
Brake assembly
Brakes 2.jpg (71 KB, 87 downloads)
Brakes exploded view

Last edited by TUTS 59; 01/03/2020 1:57 PM.

~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
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Insomniac
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Hey Craig,
According to my Motor manual, GM used at least 3 different types of adjusters on the drum brakes. They were all based on the same general principle, but there were slight differences in the parts. You can see the difference in the actuator lever in your exploded diagram and the actuator lever in Apache1's picture.

Using S10 parts on a Camaro axle or vice versa may be the issue here.

Apache1: did you positively identify your axle before buying your new parts?


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Gord&Fran,

I got tripped up thinking all along that it was out of a Camaro because my front clip is....until the brake issue was exposed.

Correction : Its a GM 8.5 axle housing with a posi-unit. I was barely able to interpret the very shallow ID stamping's on the passenger side axle tube. Note: The axle tube measures 3.00 on the OD. Where and how it got a set of S-10 brakes is anyone's guess.

See Pic: I have the (ears) @ 5 and 7

Btw, I've ordered the (1) piece adjusters (w/star wheels & springs) just like the ones in the exploded views that TUTS 59 provided....should be here Monday. I'm hoping they will just fall into place. That (2) piece unit is just hokie IMHO.

I will certainly post the outcome.


Thanks again as always...everyone,

George
Attachments
download (1).jpg (8.08 KB, 41 downloads)

Last edited by Apache1; 01/07/2020 9:16 PM.
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Installed the AC Delco OEM (1) piece adjuster arm w/o any issues. Pleased with the outcome...very, very positive contact and control of the star wheel to allow incremental adjustments.

All that is left...bleeding and getting a good pedal.

Another crisis avoided...thanks fellows yahoo

George
Attachments
DSCF0918.JPG (230.27 KB, 32 downloads)

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Insomniac
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Good news. I keep a notebook and a computer file with details like part numbers, donor vehicles, sources etc. Should be helpful for the next owner.



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Apache1, glad to hear you got it worked out, another set of eyes always seems to help.

Years ago my Wife gave me one of Stacy David's project build books. It was a great addition to my 59', I record everything from part numbers to hand built modifications. I go back to it all the time to refresh my memory (or lack of).

Last edited by TUTS 59; 01/07/2020 10:40 PM.

~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane

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