I have a 235 engine in my truck. I added an external oil filter. Both the Shop Manual and the Owner's Manual say to add an additional quart of oil if using an external oil filter.
The restoration shop says they put in 6 quarts of oil due to it having the external oil filter. Oil level did not measure up to the 'ADD' mark on the dipstick that was in the engine when I bought it many years ago. Never drove it until recently when the restoration was complete, so do not know if the dipstick is original to the motor.
After pointing out to the shop that the oil level appeared to be reading low, I added an additional quart. The level rose to about half way between 'ADD' and 'Full'.
Unless there is more to the mystery someone can share, my question is, 'Is there a different dipstick that is required for engines having an external oil filter'? That would make sense, but I have not found an after market supplier of a dipstick for use with the external oil filter.
The dipstick will not make any diff. weather it has a filter or not. The engine may take more oil to fill it to the required level after an o-haul. On an oil change some oil stays in the engine. Next time you change oil, put in the recommended amount & if it still reads low, cut enough off the tube to get the correct reading. George
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
Not sure how to do that within this post. Just backup one step to Engine Shop by touching it at the top of this page and search for “Dipstick length one a 235”.
1957 Chevy 3200 Daily Driver PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights. Follow in the DITY
Using a 1/8 inch brazing rod and a common copper or brass washer you can make your own. Fill your crankcase with the right amount of oil minus 1 quart, start the engine, stop it after a while and go away for about 30 minutes. Come back and insert the brazing rod in until it bottoms out. Mark the rod at the top of the dipstick tube, remove it and bend a U about 4 inches up from that mark. Slide the washer up to the mark and solder it in place. Now with a hammer and anvil flatten the lower 4 inches of that brazing rod. Insert it until it goes no further and remove it marking the oil level on the flattened part. This is 1 quart low. Now add the extra quart and mark that on the flattened part. You can scratch these marks with a box cutter if you wish. Now using a 1/32" bit drill two holes...one at the full mark and one at the 1 qt low mark. Now remove 1/8" from the lower end of your dipstick (so it won't rub against the pan) and you're done. You can get fancy and scribe horizontal lines if you wish, but I don't think you need to. Your eye will tell you if you're half or one-third low or whatever.
If you have PCV and want to keep this part sealed in order to maintain a slight negative crankcase pressure (which I would suggest doing), find a round piece of copper that fits into the dipstick tube nicely. I used a copper bolt used for electrical work and carefully ground it down. Chuck this into a drill press or drill and using a round edge miniature file, cut two cupped slots around it spaced about 1/4 inch apart. Slide it up to the stop and solder it in place. Get 2 O-rings that match the dipstick tube ID, install them on your dipstick and you're good to go. I did this on mine and it took me about half an hour.
Good luck.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
Thanks George. That is a beautiful truck you have.
John
Thanks. It was a sharp truck. I sold it after I bought a 72 Cheyanne super. It is a low mileage original. I haven't had a chance to get a good photo & send it in yet.
They say money can't buy happiness. It can buy old Chevy trucks though. Same thing. 1972 Chevy c10 Cheyenne Super In the Gallery Forum
