I have the balancer off the 235 that will be going in my 37 and would like to put a bolt in the crank to help keep it on,is there a good way to drill the hole straight.
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet. The three main causes of blindness: Cataracts, Politics, Religion. Name your dog Naked so you can walk Naked in the park.
Is the crankshaft out of the engine? If so, just bolt the flywheel on and stand the crank up under the spindle of a floor-mount drill press. A complete engine can be set up the same way if you support it properly. Drill a hole in the crank snout 1 1/4" deep with a 25/64" drill bit. Then clamp a 7/16-20 tap into the chuck and use a long bolt in the chuck key holes to turn the chuck. Back the tap up a little every 1/2 turn or so to break the chips off and avoid jamming the tap and breaking it off in the hole. Taps are HARD and a broken one can't be drilled out. Once the hole is drilled and tapped, rent a harmonic balancer installer from a FLAPS to push the balancer onto the crank snout without hammering. DO NOT USE THE CENTER BOLT TO TRY TO PULL THE BALANCER ON! You'll strip the thread you just worked so hard to create! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
If you don't have the bellhousing on it, just stand it up on the flywheel on a tall drill press. Be sure to pack the seal area tightly with rags or paper towels to keep shavings from getting into the timing cover. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
I have R&R'd the factory dampers many times using the puller off and a hammer on method. Fortunately for the crank thrust-bearing, you can't get much of a swing at it even with the radiator out. It works but it's very tedious and I always worried about the bearings. So later I began heating the damper in the oven to 350 deg. Then with some non-kitchen oven mitts I hustle over to the engine and slip he damper into place, knocking it one time to see if it sounded "home." If you don't get it all the way home before it cools, you can pull it off and start over. On engines where I've used a "wedding band" to cover the groove the seal wore in the damper, its a little more tricky because he bands don't like to be over heated and they slip afterward. Of course, if you get it too hot you'll damage the rubber and possibly the crank seal. Remember, you can't use a three-finger puller over the large diameter even if you have one big enough because of the rubber-mounted vibration damper nor can you bang on the same outer diameter part for the same reason.
Maybe a decade ago I bought a 2-shiv crank pulley for my 235 to drive the alternator and the A/C compressor; one belt doesn't cut the mustard. It has a rubber vibration damper sandwiched between an inner and outer steel part, which is different from the factory part in that the shiv is on the outer part and is driven by the rubber. Seemed dubious. Anyway, I called the maker and asked if heating it would hurt the rubber and they said no. So I did. A couple of months later the volt meter went to 12 and the temperature gauge started climbing. Luckily I was only a few blocks from home. I watched the engine run and noticed that the fan was not turning, belts in place. What?! How can that be? The rubber damper had come loose and the shiv was no longer driving anything. I had seen that once before on a 70s Econoline van which, unfortunately, I had to fix. There was no apprentice to fob the job off onto.
I called he manufacturer and told them what had happened. They said to send it back, we'll send you a new one. The very next day, FedEX showed up with a new damper. I heated it and put it on as before. I sent the old one back in the shipping box free of charge. Now that's service. That was maybe seven years ago and I've had no trouble on that account.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
Since the engine was on a stand it wanted to move around some it took me about a hour to drill and tap,I think it would have been quicker if the drilling fixture was made so the drill bit could have been stepped up. Starting out with 1/8 and work up to the correct size.
