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Joined: Nov 2002
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C
Carburetion specialist
Carburetion specialist
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,766
Too many threads on this (and certainly other) forums about defective accelerator pumps causing everything from acne to nuclear fission!

The accelerator pump in a carburetor is a CONVENIENCE, NOT A NECESSITY!

Most engines, excepting those where a power valve is in the bottom of the accelerator pump well, will run at wide open throttle with the accelerator pump completely removed from the carburetor. This practice was quite common, at least in rural areas, during WWII with gasoline rationing.

The main function of the accelerator pump is to furnish some fuel to transition from the off-idle circuit (NOT THE IDLE CIRCUIT) to the main metering circuit when the operator wishes to go immediately from idle to wide open throttle.

If one is not in a hurry, one can feather the accelerator pedal (assuming the idle is properly adjusted) and accelerate the engine. Just more slowly up to some RPM, which will be different for each class of engine. Above this threshold RPM, the accelerator pump does nothing, regardless of the dynamic speed of RPM change.

Do accelerator pumps go bad? Certainly, but generally over decades (neopreme pumps used in ethanol fuel are an exception, and can fail very quickly). The two carbs on my shop truck are approaching 22 years of service without being touched (no new pumps, no new adjustments). The single carb on my hot rod has been in place untouched now for about 10 years; again, no new accelerator pump, no adjustment.

So why does an engine bog from idle?

Assuming the engine still has its original ignition system (if not, consult an electronics engineer):

(A) most common cause is the idle is set TOO RICH!
(B) second most common cause is a defective advance mechanism in/on the distributor
(C) then we have valve springs, and other causes.

Explaining "A" above.

Most carburetors have TWO idle ports per primary throttle. So a one barrel would have two, a two barrel would have four, and a four barrel would also have four. There are exceptions, but this is most common. Since most here are dealing with a six cylinder, we have two idle ports. One is called the lower idle port, generally is round, and generally has the idle mixture volume screw sticking either into or close to the port. This port is below (engine side) of the throttle butterfly. The other idle port has a variety of names, most commonly called the off-idle port or the idle transition port, or the idle transition slot. Generally, this is a vertical slot beginning at approximately the center of the throttle butterfly when closed, and open for a distance upward from the beginning point.

For really good performance with most carburetors (again, there are exceptions), a good rule of thumb would be 65 percent of the volume of idle fuel being supplied by the lower idle port, and 35 percent supplied by the idle transition port. To achieve this balance, the throttle butterfly MUST be slightly open at idle to expose the idle transition slot to the air stream. Many enthusiasts set the idle with a vacuum gauge (correct for carburetors with an air-bled idle, but not correct for most single barrels that will be found on Chevrolet sixes). If the enthusiast sets the idle for the highest vacuum; at what throttle condition is set? Vacuum is measured to the engine side of the throttle plate, so highest idle vacuum will be acquired when the throttle butterfly is completely closed. How does this effect the idle fuel flow? With the throttle completely closed, the idle transition port is covered and provides zero fuel, and 100 percent of the volume of idle fuel comes through the lower idle port. But more importantly, there is virtually no air velocity in the intake runners, which creates "puddling", a condition where droplets of fuel adhere to the walls of the intake manifold. Now, the operator opens the throttle. The sudden inrush of air into the intake runners sweep the droplets into the cylinders, creating an instantaneous over-rich condition, and a hesitation. But the idle transition slot had no fuel flowing, so there is no inertial flow of fuel BEFORE the accelerator pump fuel arrives and there is an instantaneous fuel starvation, and the hesitation becomes a bog, or even a stall.

So before throwing rocks at the carburetor, and its accelerator pump; test the pump! (A) start the engine, (B) stop the engine ("A" and "B" are necessary to assure that there is actually fuel in the carburetor, modern fuel can evaporate overnight), (C) remove the air cleaner, (D) put on a pair of goggles, (E) open the choke butterfly, (F) look into the top of the carburetor from a respectful distance, (G) rapidly move the throttle arm from the idle position to the wide open position. You will either: (H) see a stream of fuel - the pump is good, or (I) see no stream of fuel - the pump should be replaced.

Once you have determined that the accelerator pump is functional, find the real problem!

And should you disregard ALL of the above, and are totally convinced without testing, that your accelerator pump should be replaced.................................I know a guy that sells carburetor kits!!!! wink

Jon.

Last edited by carbking; 12/05/2019 3:41 AM.

Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
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Good read Jon!
Maybe this should be added as a tech tip.
Then we can refer folks to the tip.
Hopefully John will see this.

Thanks
Don


1967 GMC 9500 Fire Ladder Truck
"The Flag Pole"
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1946 2-Ton grain truck
1946 3/4-ton pickup,
1953 1-ton pickup
1957 1-ton flatbed dually,
1954 Pontiac Straight Eight
Of all the things I've lost in my life, I miss my mind the most!
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Insomniac
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thumbs_up thumbs_up

Thanks!


Gord 🇨🇦
----
1954 1/2 ton 235 4 speed
Joined: Dec 2002
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Moderator - The Electrical Bay
Moderator - The Electrical Bay
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This explains a lot of why my 327 is so finicky.


Another quality post.
Real Trucks Rattle
HELP! The Paranoids are after me!
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'Bolter
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Thank you Sir! I do enjoy and appreciate these short information post'. Keep em coming.

Another vote for making the above a sticky.

RonR

Last edited by moparguy; 12/05/2019 12:58 PM.

RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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'Bolter
'Bolter
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Thank you Jon for taking the time to write such a helpful article! You are a wealth of knowledge and we are all grateful for sharing your years of experience with carburetors with us.

Many thanks!!!


Chuck
1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original)
1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod)
1941 Chevy coupe
1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
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'Bolter
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Yes, Thanks Jon!


I invest my money in precious metals, mostly rust!
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B
Sir Searchalot
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Jon, when I tell people to look down throat to see a squirt or not, I'm doing it usually to confirm there is fuel in the bowl on a "no start" condition or a "will not come off idle" condition. (not bog). This is to determine if there is a fuel delivery problem to the bowl inlet or bad level/drop of float....or something back upstream. Not looking for bad accelerator.
If it won't start or they can't feather, the squirt test is a good beginning step for those symptoms. I do understand what you say about the accel pump also.
Do you agree with that?


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Nov 2002
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C
Carburetion specialist
Carburetion specialist
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Bart - looking for the pump squirt is not a test to confirm fuel in the bowl. A "no squirt" condition could be either bad pump or no fuel in bowl. This is why I suggest to start the engine first, before testing the pump. Today's fuel will evaporate the bowl completely dry.

On a no-start, we suggest filling the bowl with gasoline using a repurposed mustard squeeze body through the bowl vent.

Jon.

Last edited by carbking; 12/06/2019 8:22 PM.

Good carburetion is fuelish hot air
The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify.
If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes!
The Carburetor Shop
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
Again, I'm speaking of no start or will not accelerate but idles. It may include no power on hills and such. I will just have to give my suggestions according to what works for me. If it squirts it's probably not fuel delivery. If it does not, I check fuel pump flow and if it flows , I rebuild the carb. I will also spray gas down the throat like everyone else does to see if it starts that way. That tells me it's the carb also.
Does not matter to me what part of the carb is not working.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,652
D
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I am always amazed at what I learn around these parts. Many thanks Jon for a terrific explanation!

Last edited by Dragsix; 12/07/2019 1:39 PM.

Mike

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