Hello; Trying to get back at this project....Working on the propeller shafts and found the U joints in need of replacement. I found a Spicer catalogue on line and it looks like #5-178x will work. Can anyone confirm this or have a current model # that works? This is for my 52- 9430 1 ton
I used that part number on my '48. I had to modify one of them for some reason that I can't now remember, grinding a little metal off for wrench access or something similar. Not a big deal or I wouldn't have done it.
Should be a Spicer # 1350. If you ask for that at O'#### or similar, they will want an application and their books don't go back that far. So pick a u-joint for a Chev 3/4 ton from however far back their books/computer go. That should be a #1350. Next size up is #1420. That won't fit. Take the dimensions with you to check.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
If you ask for that at O'#### or similar, they will want an application and their books don't go back that far. So pick a u-joint for a Chev 3/4 ton from however far back their books/computer go. That should be a #1350. Next size up is #1420. That won't fit. Take the dimensions with you to check.
A better solution would be to go to a driveline specialty shop and ask for a #1350 u-joint. There's one near where I live. They don't ask you year, make, model, engine, paint color, etc. They just get you what you need. They carry quality (Spicer) parts at better prices than your generic parts store.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
There's actually a place here in Pgh Pa called Driveline Service that I've delt with numerous times. I've got joints installed while I waited cheaper than I could of bought em and Installed them myself. Not to mention ,"the support small businesses thing " I like to do. I'm sure there should be something similar in your area. Hopefully
I second using the balljoint (probably a spell-check glitch Glenn) clamp/press for u-joints. It's way better than the neanderthal hammer and socket method. I bought one of those a number of years ago and even use it for ball joints. That Spicer catalog link is a good resource, too. I've saved a few of the items from there on my computer for reference.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
