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| | | | Joined: Jun 2016 Posts: 182 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2016 Posts: 182 | A little help please. I am trying to finish my restoration and I'm down to the brakes before I can go for a test drive. For the last several days I have been trying to get the brakes to work. I have bled the four wheel cylinders at least 6 times all around. I don't believe there is any air in the line but I still have a soft pedal. If I pump the pedal 6-10 times the pedal firms up a bit but 10 minutes later........no pedal pressure and I have to pump the pedal again. Should I recheck the brake shoe clearance and recheck the pedal to floorboard clearance on the backside? Any thoughts from anyone on what is my problem? | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 Crusing in the Passing Lane | | Crusing in the Passing Lane Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 5,096 | Have you adjusted the shoes out enough so they are almost touching? If not, several pumps will be required just to get them out to the drum
Ed
'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 | Did you Bleed the Master Cylinder?
Julian Carter
1970 Triumph GT6
1967 Triumph TR4A
1952 Chevy 3600
1948 MG-TC
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2014 Posts: 357 | I don"t care I"ll bring it up. How do you Bleed the Master cylinder? I owned about 30 cars from all over the world. Never have I needed to Bleed the Master Cylinder. So How is it done.
Julian Carter
1970 Triumph GT6
1967 Triumph TR4A
1952 Chevy 3600
1948 MG-TC
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,480 AD Addict & Tinkerer | | AD Addict & Tinkerer Joined: Feb 2019 Posts: 4,480 | My new MC came with a plastic plug that I screwed into the outlet port. I supported the MC in a vice. Filled the MC with fluid and slowly pumped the rod while looking inside the reservoir looking for the air bubbles to stop. Takes 10 or more pumps to eliminate the air.
I’ve also seen a kit that contains a nipple and a tube (or two for dual MC) that screws into the outlet, then you place the tube into the reservoir filled with fluid and pump until there is no more air bubbles in the tube.
It’s important to keep the MC full while you bleeding it.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc BrakesProject JournalsStovebolt Gallery Forum | | | | | Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2002 Posts: 2,839 | I'm sure there are lots of youtube video on how most MC's are bled, while on a shop bench. That's how I've done mine before.
Craig My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
| | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,280 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,280 | Assuming that you have Huck brakes, I will ask a stupid question. Take no offense please.
Are you adjusting both stars on each wheel?
One thing that I have found beneficial for bleeding Huck brakes after major changes (new shoes, turned or new drums), is to adjust one star until you can barely turn the wheel, then back it off until you can just turn the wheel with some drag. Do this with all eight stars. This will take all of the mechanical slop out of the shoes, allowing them to solidly contact the drums without excessive pedal travel..
Now double check the master cylinder push rod adjustment as per The Manual.
After this, bleed the brakes.
Once you have a high, firm pedal, adjust the brakes as per The Manual. There will be no brake drag after this adjustment.
If none of this works, you need a new master cylinder even if the one you currently have is new, All too often, we find bad new master cylinders for every vehicle made these days.
Carl
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2016 Posts: 182 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2016 Posts: 182 | Thanks everyone for your help. | | |
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