The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Trying to get the correct size brake shoes

All of the brake shoes I see on line from Rock Auto etc. if they have measurements on them, I see 14x2. How are they measured? Beginning of metal over brake pad to end of metal?
Mine measure 15 inches x 2. Maybe a tad over 2 inch wide.
I just hate to waste time and money ordering things then having to return them and still not have the correct parts!

The first number is the diameter of the brake drum where the shoes contact. The second number is the width of the lining. Are the brake shoes damaged to the point they can't be relined? The simplest way to assure you get the right parts is to rebuild what you've got. There is a huge quantity of brake lining material available on Ebay, plus the rivets needed to install new linings. relining brake shoes is not rocket science, even if bulk lining material has to be cut to the right length and rivet holes drilled in the right places. Bonded brake linings can be removed by heating the shoes with a torch to loosen the glue they're attached with, and riveting new linings on in their place. Most older brake shoes are drilled for rivets, even if they have been reconditioned with bonded linings.
Jerry

I presume you have original shoes? Just get them reclined, there are plenty of places that do brake shoe and clutch reclining. If you cannot find anyone local, ask on here for someone.

Ed

Great! Placing new lining is what I wanted to do but then again I did not know where to get the correct size. So my the brake drum is 12 inches inside to inside. The lining is right near 2 inches wide, definitely not 2.5 inches. So I will try to order the lining with the rivets, do I just measure my old ones and get that length. I know that sounds dumb!
I have placed brake lining on my Cessna and I have that rivet tool, it should work on the truck too?

A little off subject but in order to now start a whole new blog, I removed the differential drain today in preparation to replace the seals. I was amazed that there are no threads in the plate of the cover! Threads on the plug nut but nothing to screw into. It only had plumbing tape on the threads! Is this normal?

No, that's not normal. Someone has stripped the threads in the cover plate. I'd suggest removing the plate and having a welding shop braze half a pipe coupling to it so you can screw a pipe plug in securely. That would also be a good excuse to clean up the differential housing with some solvent and refill it with fresh gear lube after the cover plate is replaced.

If you choose to use bulk lining material, simply measure the length of the original linings and duplicate them. Clamp the new lining to the brake shoes, drill the rivet holes in the proper place by drilling from the brake shoe side, and countersink the holes in the lining deep enough to prevent the rivets from scoring the drums. A depth stop on a drill press quill will prevent drilling those counterbores too deep. You might be able to find direct replacement linings, but making them from scratch isn't difficult. Some brake linings are different length front and back, so be sure to take pictures and make measurements of everything before you disassemble the brakes.
Jerry

Thank you Jerry, the linings are not flexible, correct?
PS, I brought home some aviation 100LL. That stuff will clean anything oil base!

Bulk lining material comes in a loosely coiled roll, and is slightly flexible. Direct-replacement linings aren't as flexible, and are usually molded into a radius to match the brake shoes. Truck brake shops are usually willing to send hard to find shoes out for relining, but some places charge outrageous prices for what is a pretty simple do it yourself procedure for anyone with a little common sense.
Jerry

Great, I found all of these materials on E Bay. Rolls. Wanted to be sure I order the right material. What I am looking at is 2 " , 3/16" woven brake lining. Does this sound right? Also I will have to ask him for rivets. Do I cut the pads to the correct length or do I ask him to do that?
Thanks

I don't think the woven lining will be best for service brakes. That's usually used to reline parking brake bands. Woven lining material will wear too quickly to have much of a life if it's used for relining the brake shoes. Look for a set of molded linings for a 12" diameter brake shoe. They come in various lengths, and if they're for Bendix-type brakes the lining on the forward-facing shoe will be a little shorter than the one on the rear shoe. If you've got the Huck or Lockheed style brakes both linings will be the same length. How does the brake adjustment system work? Huck brakes have adjusters built into the wheel cylinders, with toothed adjusters that move with the wheel cylinder pistons. Lockheed brakes have a cam type adjuster that is moved with a hex nut adjuster for the backing plate for each shoe. Bendix brakes have a single floating star wheel adjuster that's between the bottom of the brake shoes.
Jerry

glennj3 ,

Why not do this the easy way .

There's a real nice set of GM NOS brake shoes on ebay .

The price is $44.95 or BEST OFFER .

GM part # 3703513

Go to ebay & type in the search box...........3703513

Then there's no more debate over woven lining material , rivets , size , etc .

You are making this way to complicated for yourself ............IMO .

PIC

https://i.postimg.cc/76Zr7BwT/3703513-Brake-Shoes-NOS.jpg


You can probably get the whole set of ( 4 ) shoes for $40.00

The made in china after market brake shoes are probably more than $44.95 or best offer .

I would not recommend junk yard brake shoes .


G.

When one is ignorant about something and without a good advisor he tends to think a lot, research a lot and buy the wrong stuff.
I found a set at NAPA for about $34 ! Ordered the set for the front. I plan to overhaul the wheel cylinders and should I replace all of the springs?

Thank you all so much for your assistance. The show has just begun!