The Stovebolt.com Forums Home | Tech Tips | Gallery | FAQ | Events | Features | Search
Help is a click away!

VEHICLE
INFORMATION
KITS


at the

GM Heritage Center
All the details are here.

Searching the Site - a click away
click here to search
New here ??? Where to start?
Click on image for the lowdown. Where do I go around here?
====
Who's Online Now
9 members (klhansen, rfs56trk, Bill Hanlon, 1955 1 Series, DHedrick, Otto Skorzeny, 39Master85, greenie-reddy, Peggy M), 136 guests, and 3 robots.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Statistics
Forums66
Topics128,087
Posts1,056,399
Members48,442
Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for pictures in the forums
Brad Allen's photos

AD Chevy Trucks

Pictures galore
Over 6,000 pictures

Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips.

Check them out!

Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!

Big Thanks!

THANKS!

For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for

over 30 years!

and not clogged down
with Ads!


Again, thanks!

Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,291
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,291
On my 1954 Chevrolet Truck, the two hood panels were bolted together using 8-32 machine screws / nuts. I see in the GM Factory Assembly manual it shows using GM 441308 Rivets. I couldn't find any information on the rivet but I'm guessing it was probably a steel rivet of some sort. Anyone know any details on the "rivet". Most likely it will go back together using new 8/32 machine screws, washers, lock washers and nuts, unless modern aluminum structural rivets would work? Any suggestions?


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,093
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,093
On my hood, the rivets are semi-tubular type. Those are still available, but take a special tool to set them. A suitable substitute (and probably more readily available) would be steel pop-rivets.

Last edited by klhansen; 10/06/2019 4:01 AM.

Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,254
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
"Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,254
And if you like shiny, they make stainless rivets. Either rivet would hold up better than the aluminum rivet over time.

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,286
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,286
Is there enough room to fit a standard rivet tool in that space under the hood? I used the little nuts and bolts in stainless steel.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,093
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,093
Originally Posted by 52Carl
Is there enough room to fit a standard rivet tool in that space under the hood? I used the little nuts and bolts in stainless steel.
I believe it would work fine towards the back, but might be a little tight at the front. That's likely why the factory used semi-tubular rivets, along with a plier type (likely powered) rivet tool. Not sure they had pop-rivets back in the AD era. Actually just looked it up. Pop-rivets were patented in 1917.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,291
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Moderator for Tons o' Fun , Co-Moderator Driveline Forum
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,291
Thanks for all of the input, it is appreciated . I placed my standard rivet gun , head flat against the inside of the panel and it looks like it would work. I can see myself denting the panel while wrestling with the rivet gun. I think I'll stick with the 8-32 machine screw, might give a little wiggle room ti get both halfs lined up . Thanks everyone.


Ron - - Dusty53
1954 Chevy 3604
In the Gallery Forum
"You can't dance with the Devil and then wonder why you're still in Hell."
"They will forget what you've said, and they will forget what you have done but they will never forget the way you made them feel."
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 5
D
New Guy
New Guy
D Offline
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 5
I've got a 1937 1.5 ton flatbed I'm restoring. I need to replace the hinge between the two cowling pieces. The hinge is riveted to the cowling halves. Any advice on getting those old rivets out without damaging the cowling? Thanks.


Moderated by  klhansen 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Home | FAQ | Gallery | Tech Tips | Events | Features | Search | Hoo-Ya Shop
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 8.0.0