The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Some pointers needed-Sub Framing Small Block etc...

Let me start off by saying that I have done some searching but have not quite found what I need.

I recently brought home a 51 3600 "parts truck" that I intend to have running/driving asap. I only want reliable transportation out of it, and will rarely if ever need to use it for hauling. I'm thnking cool daily commuter here.

The truck is in need of pretty much everything. Rust removal and panel straightening/patching has begun. I'll need to pick up all new glass, weather seals etc. Dash is stripped. Head and intake etc are gone-short block and tranny only, you get the idea.

This is perfect for a street rod type project, so I picked up a subframe from an 81 Camaro last week. I also have a line on a "running when it was pulled" complete 307 and powerglide from a 69 Camaro.

My current concerns are finding some detailed info about grafting in the subframe. I'd like to find a nice write up with some detailed pictures to help me along the way.

Secondly is the engine. I know a 307 is not the ultimate small block choice, but it is nearly free. I don't really want the PG, but it isn't costing me anything extra. Can the current 4sp(?) be mated to the 307? I don't know the condition of the original tranny, but if it could work then I'll take a look at it. If not, then I won't even bother.

Also what gearing is in the original transmission? I have a 8.2 open rear with 2.73 gears from my 68 Camaro that will be replacing the current rear as well, so I need to work out what my final drive ratios are going to be.

I know there are a lot of questions here, but I would appreciate any responses I can get.

Thanks in advance!

Bret

Yes, I think so. You need a different bellhousing, but they are available with a SBC bolt pattern that will mate with the old 4-speeds. They're cast iron, and I've seen them all over E-bay for around the $50 range. I picked up one too.

As far as welding the subframe goes, you are probably forging the way. But if the width matches up well, it shouldn't be too hard. If not, then it becomes harder. But if you have all the equipment and are handy with a welder, it's probably do-able.

Having done a subframe to an AD truck I would say it is probably not the easiest method to go as there are many details that need to be worked out along the way. If you are set on this path then do not use the 2nd generation Camaro subframe but instead find a rear steer sub from either a first generation camaro/firebird or a 70-74(?) nova. It will make some things easier later on. Check out the pictures on my signature link to see how I have done it. Oh it can be done but there are not many who recommend the 2nd gen subframe for your year truck. They work great in the task force series though.

Hot Rod Dad, thanks for the heads up on the transmission/bellhousing! Do you happen to know any casting numbers/part numbers etc? I did a quick ebay search for "chevy truck bellhousing" and came up with several different styles, including cast iron and aluminum. If no casting number, perhpas some specific applications such as model years to look for?

Houston54, I'll check your site when I get home tonight (work firewall prevents me from viewing your pictures.) What specifically about the 2nd gen Camaro is undesireable? The front steer setup generally has better geometry than the 1st gen. It is also more readily available, at least to me, and comes with disc brakes and power steering. If the track width is the issue, I'll compensate for that with some late model style wheels with lots of backspace and if necessary, I'll section the crossmember.

Thanks for the responses guys, keep 'em coming!!

Exactly what bellhousing is important if you are using the original mounts and clutch linkage. It's far less important if you are not keeping the stock rear crossmember.

If your crossmember is what I expect it will have flat surfaces where the bellhousing bolts to it. There is no V-8 bellhousing that fits that crossmember. In '54 the crossmember changed to angled mounts. That same style mount was used for years afterward, and the V-8 bellhousings for the later crossmember (starting in '55) will fit the '54-'55 1st crossmembers. They are not hard to find, I bought one at a swap meet for $5.00 a year ago.

All that to say that if you can score a '54 or '55 1st crossmember, you can then easily bolt the '55 to '67 (I think?) bellhousing to the crossmember and readily support a V-8. Clutch linkages vary and I am not the one to spell out those details.

All that said, with the 2.73 gears I'd consider running the Powerglide or maybe a Turbo 350 instead of the original 4-speed. I have an SM420 (what yours should be, provided its a 4-speed) in my '55 1st GMC, with a 270 and 3.08 gears.

Shifting from granny 1st to 2nd isn't really very driveable, and starting in 2nd sometimes I wish it had deeper gears. As small blocks go, a 307 has relatively more torque, but I'm wondering if you will be happy with it and those 2.73 gears.

Back to the bellhousing and crossmember, if you go with a later car type manual transmission or the Powerglide or Turbo 350, you can use the transmission mount instead of the bellhousing as the rear engine mount, and some of your problems go away.

Running an automatic with a torque converter the concerns about the 2.73 gears go away also.

Bret, I am working on a 1940 1/2 ton that I bought after a guy had just welded on a 1969 Trans Am sub frame and have several pictures of getting it painted and on four wheels so far. Don't know how to get them to you. I may try to make a web page or something. I love working on my truck.
Bob Wade

As far as your subframe goes, I have a similiar situation I have a vette subframe but front and rear but I plan on running a bagged suspension so rather than scab pieces to the old frame and have to deal with boxing it and reinforcing it I have choosen to build a new 2x3 boxed frame. It will make for a cleaner,stronger foundation. Just my 2 cents.