The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine for my 51 pickup

I'm starting a new project with no engine or trans. I want to stay with an inline 6 and a 4 speed tranny. I can get my hands on a stock 292 and need advice on what to expect if I purchase that one. It sounds like the 292 is an awesome engine with lots o power. I'm hoping to spice it up a little with headers and a carb, maybe a cam. Your thoughts!?

Welcome to the Stovebolt. So if you have no engine or transmission, is there a torque tube attached to the rearend? That will be a factor in how you proceed.

Also, these guys will want to know what truck (make and year) you will be working on.

292 swap is definitely not a drop in and drive deal.
Too long to clear radiator.
Weird motor mounts.
Rear axle needs to be switched to modern open driveshaft.

This is for my 1951 Chevy 3100 pickup. I have no engine, trans or rear-end.
I've read that if I went with a 292 I would need to move the radiator and I've read that it will fit as is. So what is the deal? I know the mounts are offset so that I know will need to be modified. Should I go for a 250 instead?

I would suspect the 250 would be the same as the 292 since they are in the same engine series.
Am I correct?

The 216, 235 & 261 are one family of inline engines and the 230, 250 & 292 are the newer family.

Since you need everything you have a clean slate to work with.

How good are your modification skills? If you're going with a manual trans you'll need to pay attention to the clutch pedal linkage/setup...are you staying stock with that?

Lots to consider, but all doable.

Mike B

Sounds like I need to stay with a 292. If I need to modify mite as well make it worth while. I can deal with some modifications if not too major. Not sure what stock is but I would like a 4 speed manual. I was reading that the Muncie M20 or the SM465 were good. Not sure how they play in to the 292 idea. Still lots to learn for me.

I put a 292 in a 1950 PU and a 1940 passenger car without moving the radiator.
There are three lengths of water pumps that fit that series of engines. I used the shortest, along with a flat face flex fan.

Thanks Dave, that is really good to know. Where do you find info on the water pumps?
Were you happy with putting the 292 in your 50? Also, what trans and rear end did you use?
Thanks to all for this great info!

292's are great engines, just need to allow for offset mount. They like fuel, so gear them carefully for intended loads and trips.

Ed

I heard it was a gas gussler and the gearing is important. I'm starting from a blank frame so I'm thinking the Muncie M20 (4 speed manual) and getting a Nova rear end. I'm also reading the T5 overdrive tranny is a good choice. I'm looking to make this a nice and comfy highway driver. I do have the IFS setup for the front so that will help. Always looking for comments and advice.

I have the Muncie 420 in my stock 1953 1/2 ton truck, and I have a 261 engine with torque tube and 4:11 rear gears. The granny-low first gear is about 7.1:1 ratio and un-useable in traffic. 5mph and the engine is screaming. It is only useful for pulling a heavy load, pulling the truck into the garage, or a parade. I use 2,3,4 for driving. And with the 4.11 rear end, 55mph is about top end and the motor is somewhat wound up. So I'm wondering if maybe a newer 4-speed (maybe the SM465) or T-5 might be of better use in your truck since you want a nice highway driver.

Why not just change your rear ended to 3.55 or so? I can run my 216 with 3 speed at 70 mph without issue since I changed to 3.55 rearend. I can’t pull weight, but I don’t care to pull with it.

A 465 has direct high gear so it will not help, T-5 has OD gears.

Ed

I think FlowKooler makes the only high flow water pump I know of. They don't make it in chrome but if you juice it up it's a good choice. There are kits for the motor mounts out there.The 292 takes a small block bellhousing and pretty much any trans you want. I would also upgrade your radiator and might as well get one with a shroud and electric fan as a kit. My old rear end is a 12 bolt 6 lug from a junkyard 40 years ago. There are people here that know what to get a rear end from, Then just weld your perches on and bolt it in. Find a longer drive shaft and have it shortened. The 292 is an awesome engine, torque monster. I'm putting one in my 53 3100. You can find them on ebay running for around $500 sometimes with free shipping. The 292 and 250 share the same head. The 292 is basically a stroked 250. Good luck. There is lots of bling available for the 292. Here is a tamer version of the one I'm building now.

Awesome pictures! And thanks for the info about the SM465, I did not know that.

Personally, with my truck being stock, I don’t care to go over 55 for safety reasons. I have drum brakes and straight axle. Not exactly equipment meant for today’s highway speeds.

Now if you are talking about improved front suspension, disc brakes, etc, then yes I would like the 3.55 gears as well.

Green,

I have a straight front axle with everything stock, minus disc brakes and anti roll bar on the front. I seat belt kids in and go. She rides smooth without any issues. I can comfortably keep up with traffic without thinking that I will die.

Chris

I have a 48 3600 with a 292, T5 with .86 OD, and a 4.11 14 bolt rear end. When I swapped the rear end, I should have found a 3.73, or searched for a .72 OD transmission. Otherwise, I really enjoy it. You will have to modify engine mounts, and the fan does sit too low with respect to the radiator. I am still working on my final cooling solution. I am trying to stay away from electric fans.

Jon

My 53 with the 235 (slightly juiced) had 373's and SM420 trans in it. I drove it a couple of hundred thousand miles including a few cross country trips. It highwayed fine. I now have a Frankland rear end with 128 choices for rear end gear ratios. I know I'm out there but just showing what you can do.

A 292 is a high torque engine that was mostly used in midsize trucks- - - -1 ton and larger. You'll be able to pass most everything but a gas station with it- - - - -really lousy gas mileage!
Jerry

Nice "tame" 292 Mick. I'd like to see your "untame" version. My plan for mine was a carb, headers and some lipstick! That's a beauty!
I'm looking at a 75 Camaro posi rear end that the guy says is a 2.56 but that sounds like a strange gear. Does that sounds right? Would that work with my 292 and 4 speed? He says it's 62,25 flange to flange so the width is close enough. Also it's a 8.5 10 bolt.

51Gib, the 2.56 gear was fairly standard in most GM cars with Auto trans. Most 10 bolt axles had either 2.56 or 2.73, the problem is when you decide to change to a deeper gear you need 3.08 or lower, you need to change the carrier as well. I ran into this with my 10 bolt. I found a ring gear spacer that allows me to keep the carrier and change the gears. It took some searching around but they are out there. GM made the 10 bolt with an 8.2 and 8.5 , the 8.5 is the stronger of the 2 carriers so be sure what your looking at. As a note the 10 bolt for a Pontiac was completely different and the carrier will not interchange with other GM's

Here's some information on GM 10 and 12 bolt rear ends.
https://www.chevydiy.com/history-and-identification-of-chevy-10-and-12-bolt-chevy-differentials/

The fan in an AD/ late-model swap (552nd on, 235, 261, 250 or small block) will not clear the lower radiator outlet if the radiator is in stock position. With a pair of heavy-duty tin snips you can modify the radiator mounting flanges to drop the radiator about four inches or so. You'll need to drill new bolt holes. Then a 16" fan will clear the outlet. Using a shroud with such a setup will require some good sheet metal skills as the fan swings lower than the radiator's bottom tank. It clears the cross member, though. I've done this using a 6-blade, high-pitch truck fan and a 4" radiator core. I put an electric pusher in front of the radiator but it only comes on after shut-off on a hot day. Oh, one more thing: I moved the radiator to the front side of the mounting hoop, though there are work-arounds these days I understand so you don't have to do that.