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Hey everybody! Thank you all so much for your input and advice! My mom fell suddenly sick so I've been taking care of her but she's finally getting better after a week and a half so if all goes to plan I will be able to test out some of your theories tomorrow and update the thread. Y'all rock!

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My initial thoughts were an exhaust leak but if you listen you will hear a knock after he releases the throttle. My money’s on team Jerry.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Crusty Old Sarge
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Bigfunsixone... Any update on your engine knock?


~ Craig
1958 Viking 4400
"The Book of Thor"
Read the story in the DITY
1960 Chevrolet C10
"A Family Heirloom"
Follow the story in the DITY Gallery
'59 Apache 31, 327 V8 (0.030 over), Muncie M20 4 Speed, GM 10 Bolt Rear... long term project (30 years and counting)

If you don't like driving yourTruck, you won't drive yourTruck..| Living life in the SLOW lane
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Hey everybody! I want to reiterate how grateful I am for everyone's independent. I've been dealing with a real [censored] storm in my personal life BUT I finally had a moment to get a better video. I'm also going to buy a remflex gasket and replace the cheap one that I bought and installed. Maybe since I filmed this right next to the engine the sound will be more identifiable. Thanks again!


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'Bolter
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sounds to me like a sticking or burned valve or possibly a bent push rod. You can also see the weight on the heat riser bouncing indicating a miss. Won't take but 2 minutes to remove the valve cover, start the engine and watch the valves in action

Last edited by harv; 11/21/2019 3:53 AM.
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Keep revving it- - - - -pretty soon you'll be able to look through the big hole in the engine block and you won't have to do any disassembly. I'd suggest disconnecting one spark plug wire at a time to see if the noise changes with the ignition disabled on one of the cylinders. You've got enough valve clatter from seriously out of adjustment valves that it's masking the other noises, but there's still a noticeable hard knock, either main bearings and/or at least one cracked piston. You can use it for a boat anchor before too long unless you start doing some serious diagnosis. Too bad- - - -it's definitely salvageable right now. Once it starts throwing pieces in all directions it won't be!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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Yeah, if it weren't already glaringly obvious I have no idea what I'm doing. I'll try not to unwittingly kill it in my quest to heal it.

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'Bolter
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Big, first of all “Best of Luck” as you work to save and enjoy another Stovebolt. Folks have had a bit of fun in their quest to help with your engine issues. That aside, were it me I’d take the advice above and adjust the valves. Search will yield much how to help. Then do as Jerry suggested and pull one plug wire at a time and see which cylinder is responsible for the knock. Results of doing those two things will dictate the next steps.

Added in edit; How to adjust valves from Tech Tips here.

Also, Jerry posted a very good how to adjust valves sometime ago, however I couldn't find it just now.

Good Luck,
RonR

Last edited by moparguy; 11/21/2019 2:37 PM.

RonR


1951 3600 with Clark flatbed, T5, 4.10 rear
1970 340 Duster
1990 5.0 V8 Miata (1990 Mustang Gt Drivetrain)
1964 CJ5
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Crusing in the Passing Lane
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And check for bent pushrods as Harv suggested.

Ed


'37 GMC T-18 w/ DD 4-53T, RTO-610, 6231 aux., '95 GMC running gear, full disc brakes, power steering, 22.5 wheels and tires.
'47 GMC 1 ton w/ 302, NP-540, 4wd, full width Blazer front axle.
'54 GMC 630 w/ 503 gasser, 5 speed, ex fire truck, shortened WB 4', install 8' bed.
'55 GMC 370 w/270, 420 4 speed, grain, dump bed truck from ND. Works OK.
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Search the site for "companion cylinder valve adjustment"- - - - - -the information should come up on several threads.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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Replace the missing exhaust manifold nut at the front of the engine and see how it sounds.
Hal

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Originally Posted by OrangeOne66
Replace the missing exhaust manifold nut at the front of the engine and see how it sounds.
Hal

OK, guys- - - - -would one of you like to educate him, or should I do it?
Jerry



"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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'Bolter
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In the first video I thought that the noise is piston related, in that it sounded like more of a "clatter". But in this newest video the noise coming through as a heavier "clunking". I have to change my guess to "something is wrong on the bottom end". I agree with HRL, keep revving the motor and "All will be revealed".

SimS


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Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
"OrangeOne66]Replace the missing exhaust manifold nut at the front of the engine and see how it sounds.
Hal."

OK, guys- - - - -would one of you like to educate him, or should I do it?
Jerry
I don't know the answer since every 216/235 I have ever owned, someone apparently wrung off the front and rear ones clean off leaving nothing but stubs...


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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'Bolter
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this missing nut?
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Screen Shot 2019-11-23 at 8.29.22 PM.jpg (283.78 KB, 125 downloads)

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Bolter
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Let’s educate instead of belittle. Obvious OrangeOne66 doesn’t know they are suppose to be studs not bolts.🛠

Correction: the proper term is “Pin” not studs. Studs commonly have threads and pins don’t.

Last edited by Justhorsenround; 11/24/2019 3:19 PM. Reason: Corrected terminology.

Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
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In the interest of education, they are locater pins. Mine is exactly the same.
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Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
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Joined: Mar 2010
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Renaissance Man
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Originally Posted by Justhorsenround
Let’s educate instead of belittle. Obvious OrangeOne66 doesn’t know they are suppose to be studs not bolts.🛠

Correction: the proper term is “Pin” not studs. Studs commonly have threads and pins don’t.
Not belittling anyone. If anything, I am exhibiting self-deprecation. I, for one, was puzzled by the nutless studs when I first started working on these engines.
BTW, don't these items have threads. Are they not threaded into the head? "Threaded pins", maybe?


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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Yes, the holes in the head are threaded. Some people install bolts or studs in an attempt to straighten a warped manifold, which usually cracks it or breaks the ear off.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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'Bolter
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If it's got an unidentified heavy noise go easy on the revving and loading of the engine or you can end up like the owner in the story below.

On about the third day of a new job, the foreman sent me out into the yard to see about a 5-ton corn binder that had come in on a hook. All he said was it had a bad miss and a bad oil leak. First thing I did was open the hood and check the oil. It was about three qts low. So I put oil in it and started it up. Ran nice and quiet - on 5 cylinders. But as I reved it up I noticed a strong vibration; enough to shake the mirrors. So I shut it down to have another look under the hood. But as I walked around from the cab to the engine, I slipped in a puddle of oil. I got some floor-dry to sop up the oil and crawled under the engine to have a look. A couple of inches above the oil pan was a hole in the block about six inches by 8 inches. Inside I could see the bottom third of the connecting rod still attached to the crank throw.

Back to the foreman. "They need a new engine." I said. Aw baloney," he replied. "The owner said it's been making some noise but since the noise quit it started missing and lost power. Check the plugs and pull the valve cover."



1951 3800 1-ton
"Earning its keep from the get-go"
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1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
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Got a Monday morning chuckle. Thanks Tommy.


1953 Chevrolet 3100
261 cu inch, sm420, 3.55 rear, torque tube still,omaha orange, still 6 volt, RPO green glass, side carrier spare, all done
In the DITY Gallery
Video of the 261 running

1964 GMC 1000
305 Big Block V6, sm420, the next cab off restoration
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Sometimes that little guy inside the crankcase with a sledgehammer actually succeeds in getting out!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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