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#1333860 11/15/2019 1:18 PM
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 395
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I'm planning on pulling out the "pig" from my rear end and taking it to the Ring and Pinion shop NE of Detroit. If they can save the gears they'll rebuild it. I'll do it when I have some time and it's not quite so cold here in central Michigan.
I have 2 questions:
First, Does anyone know the current state of available gear sets? Seems like Patrick had them, but there's been uncertainty in recent years if they're even still in business. I'm wanting to stick with the current 3.90 or go to 3.55. Catalogs online only show a 3.36 available. That would defeat the purpose of the T5 in my opinion.

Second, R&P shop said to "remove the C-clips, slide the axles out then the pig should come right out the front". Sounds great, but what exactly does that mean? Do I need to remove the 2 large bolts on each side of the gear and carrier? What about the smaller bolt in the center of each side between the larger ones?

(Photos taken when I resealed it a few months ago)
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Last edited by Just Mark; 11/15/2019 1:19 PM.
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Bubba - Curmudgeon
Bubba - Curmudgeon
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Patrick's is no longer in business.

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O
'Bolter
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O Offline
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Take out the bolt holding the center pin (red arrow)
Once the pin is out, then the axle thrust block will slide out from between the side gears & axles.
Now you'll see the c clips on the axle tips. Remove them, then the axles.
Finally, as previously mentioned you can remove bolts from the front of the axle and slide the whole unit out the front.

PS. I'm running the 3.38's and 32" tires behind my 4 speed 1:1... engine turns ~2200rpm at 60mph
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55t-3rd-members.png (1.24 MB, 171 downloads)

Last edited by Ott3r; 11/15/2019 2:02 PM.

'59 Chevy Suburban, NAPCO
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3
3B Offline
'Bolter
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Hy Just Mark, good advise from Ott3r. I would say that by the damage caused to the ring gear carrier by the pinion gear moving back and into it that your gears and every bearing and seal will have to be replaced because of all that removed metal constantly circulating through everything as you drive down the road. Someone obviously ignored the noise that differential must have been making for a long time.

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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
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Thanks guys. What's the axle thrust block look like?

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T
'Bolter
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When you take that small bolt out that the arrow is pointing at , the round pin will come out. The thrust block will then fall out it is square maybe 1 inch square and 2 inches long, the push the axles in and the c clips will come off, pull the axles out and take the whole unit out the front. Be careful it is HEAVY.


Tommy
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J
'Bolter
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great info. Thanks guys. I'll keep you posted. Might be a week or more before I can get to it. Wanted to be prepared.

Anyone have info on new gear sets?

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O
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by 3B
I would say that by the damage caused to the ring gear carrier by the pinion gear moving back and into it that your gears and every bearing and seal will have to be replaced because of all that removed metal constantly circulating through everything as you drive down the road.


Holy cow! i was wondering what those marks were from.
Those gears are thrashed big_eek

That is the only ratio available for new gears that i know about... anything else i think you'll have to find a used set.

I used the bearing/seal kit from just differentials:
https://www.justdifferentials.com/GM8-2-Master-Install-Kit-p/mkgm55chevy.htm
Nice koyo hi-cap bearings, mmm so smooth.

Last edited by Ott3r; 11/16/2019 12:57 AM.

'59 Chevy Suburban, NAPCO
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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That carrier is in terrible condition. I'd want to start with a complete center housing from a donor rear end and scrap the entire center section you've got there. There's no telling how much load has been put on the housing casting, or how many stress cracks there might be in it, just waiting to destroy all your hard work and expense of a rebuild job. These rear ends aren't that scarce, as the same assembly was used for a range of several years from the mid-1950's to early 60's.
Jerry


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J
'Bolter
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Originally Posted by Hotrod Lincoln
That carrier is in terrible condition. I'd want to start with a complete center housing from a donor rear end and scrap the entire center section you've got there. There's no telling how much load has been put on the housing casting, or how many stress cracks there might be in it, just waiting to destroy all your hard work and expense of a rebuild job. These rear ends aren't that scarce, as the same assembly was used for a range of several years from the mid-1950's to early 60's.
Jerry


Good advice. I'm looking. If you are aware of a decent one let me know!


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