The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Fuel pump compatibility

I have a 1954 1/2 ton with a 1962 engine block. The fuel pump has seen better days and it is time to replace or rebuild. Since it was a 54 truck I was thinking about installing a glass bowl pump for the looks. However most of the catalogs/websites list the glass bowl fuel pump up to 1957.

Does anyone know if there is a glass bowl fuel pump that fits the 1962 235 L6 engine? From most of the pictures online the full metal and the glass bowl fuel pumps look similar in mount and lever arm. I know looks can be deceiving.

Any help is greatly appreciated

I'm guessing that a 54 235 and a 62 235 have the same fuel pump physical fit parameters. I'm guessing that the PSI and Volume requirement for the carb is what the difference is. If that is the case, the difference is fairly small. 4-5 PSI range and 20-25 GP range for 54 and 62. Both had 1 bbl carbs. Don't quote me on this. Among others, tclederman . Pre '68 Dave . CarbKing are the experts.

If that is confirmed, you can use a 1954 glass pump on your 62 motor..... or this guy on any pump.

Thanks, the gph and psi range you stated is what my current pump is rated at. Most websites provide little information regarding rebuilt pumps. Since I'm running a stock engine with a 1bbl carb. I'm guessing it will work. Guessing being the main word.
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The glass bowl pump will fit fine and work fine. The difference is in the angle of the fuel lines entering/exiting the pump. You can use on the '62 engine, without issue, either the AC 9797 (combo pump with the vacuum assist for the wipers) or the AC 9798 (no vacuum assist section if you don't need it) that were spec'ed for the '54 235 with glass fuel bowl and straight across fuel line orientation. The later pumps (after '58) had a different fuel line orientation - about a 120 degree angle between fuel line fittings, as opposed to the earlier pumps that oriented the fuel lines at 180 degrees - straight across.

Thanks for the info, I was also using this as a excuse to run new fuel lines so different orientation won't be a problem.

Rebuilt fuel pumps can be a huge pain at times. Older ones can have rubber parts that don't play well with ethanol-added gasoline. A lot of the new ones are made overseas and the failure rate is horrendous. Don't assume because it's new, that it's "good". ALWAYS do a volume, pressure, and vacuum test on your newly-installed fuel pump. Then say a small prayer that it doesn't leak!
Jerry

Thanks for the reminder I will definitely take the time to verify the new pump

Even new ones have a high failure rate and the brand doesn't seem to matter. Just because it's new or newly rebuilt doesn't mean it'll stay new. The last new pump I bought lasted me maybe 5,000 miles or about a year before it started leaking oil and making a mess. I replaced it's predecessor because it put out almost 8 PSI and invariably flooded the carbs when shut off, even for a minute. I have been using an electric pump that puts out ~4psi since. Six months and a dozen 350-mile trips over the mountains; so far so good. They must be filtered on the inlet FWIW. I know it doesn't look stock but if you're still working these ol' trucks you have to make a few work-arounds.

It's possible to gut out a mechanical pump and use it as a dummy with a straight line routed through it, then put an electric pump under the cab out of sight near the fuel tank outlet. Just use an oil pressure sensing switch and a relay to power the pump so it stops pumping gas in case the engine stalls.
Jerry

Thanks HRL. A relay is one of those things I know I should have done but have not gotten around to. Your idea sounds pretty easy to do. I'll get on it.