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Hi Everyone,

Quick request here, but first the specifics: 1953 3100, 235 engine with standard 3 speed transmission.

I'm getting ready to install the 235 into my truck. I have the basic 3 speed transmission already attached to the engine and hope to install both as a unit. The hood is removed from the truck. All front sheet metal is in place. My request: can anyone provide tips, tricks or pitfalls to avoid when installing an engine this way? I hope to keep all the sheet metal in place, if possible. I have no experience doing this, so nothing is too basic for me!

Thanks in advance,

Is the radiator removed?
Is the radiator frame/housing removed?
If the “top cover” between the grill and radiator housing removed?

Tim,

The radiator is out.
The radiator frame is still in the truck.
The formed sheet metal between the grill and radiator is out.

I was wondering if I should try to get the grill bars out. If so, how hard is that to do?

Leaving the front sheet metal on requires the assembly to be at an extreme transmission down angle and plenty of clearance under the truck. It can be done but it requires a lot of “down, back, up, tilt, down, back, down and more tilt” in order to ease it into place. The motors are awkward enough on a cherry picker without the transmission. You may have to place a couple hundred pounds of weight over the back wheels of the picker to balance everything out. Not fun!

If front clip comes off in one piece, that is the "ticket", as the law said. "Shoot low Sheriff, he's ridin' a Shetland"

Gray Ghost,

The two posters above have posted, as usual, good advice.

Removing the front clip is really pretty easy. Biggest challenge you'll likely have is the need to twist off most of the bolts if they're original. Replacing it is also not that difficult, and gives you a good opportunity to adjust a little if needed. I posted a video on YouTube if you want to spend 5 minutes seeing how it's removed. Removing the front clip

If you haven't already done it you might consider the water pump relocation. Do a search on that if you are not familiar with it. Much improved cooling if you are using the stock radiator. It would be easier to do before installing the engine.

Greg Brown, GREAT vid on removing the front clip. I had not expected it to be that simple. I hope to swap in my new to me, 261 in the next several months and hadn't really considered pulling the front clip. Now I've got to seriously consider that option. I also need to replace the kingpin bushings and freshen up all the front suspension bits. Sure would be nice to have the front clip out of the way. And here I go, heading back down the "while I'm in there" rabbit hole.

Oh, does it go back together in 6 minutes?

RonR

If you remove the front clip, you will have excellent access to the front metal brake lines. I took advantage of that with mine.

Sorry, but it's going to take a bit more than 6 minutes to replace it. It honestly wasn't that bad though. The worst part was dealing with the fender welting I added between the cab and fenders.

I have a couple suggestions, assuming your front end is pretty well aligned right now. Don't loosen any bolts except those needed to remove the clip. On the support rods, either mark the location of the nuts, or leave the rear nut in place as I did. Then when you put the clip back on, leave all the bolts a little loose. Use the support rods to pull the clip up into place before tightening everything. I left the support rods in place, so I'm not sure how much play there is in the rear mounting holes, but regardless I think this would work. They do interfere a little with the inner fenders when you remove the clip, but it wasn't that bad to work around them.

The biggest problem is all the little side projects you're going to want to do with the clip removed.

I have removed & set in engine and transmission together twice in my '53 without removing front clip. Remove hood, radiator, and radiator support frame. Remove the shroud with the hood latch. The grille stays in place. Inside the truck, remove the center floor pan, which permits you to lift and guide the back of the transmission into place.

We DON'T r&r engines with the front clip in place but if one feels they MUST then we made a tool that makes the job at least 80% easier. First: the lift bar

A piece of 2x3 rectangular tubing with 1/8 wall thickness. Holes are drilled to align with the rocker bolts/studs on a 235/216. The top surface of the tube has a hole big enough for a socket and extension to pass through. Extra holes pictured are for a Buick straight eight and Pontiac I6. Nuts on the underside of the bar keep the bar off the rocker assembly and multiple holes sideways through bar are for hoist hook chain adjustment.

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/YG47XbFq/engine-lift-bar-005.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/SnMY2fR8/engine-lift-bar-002.jpg[/img]

Procedure: Set hoist chain on lift bar so engine hangs nearly vertical.
Remove fan blade and water pump
Lower till rear of trans hangs on cross member and continue to lower till chain goes slack
Move chain to a balanced position and when raised engine will slide back into position by itself

I had thought about removing the front clip, but when I went under the truck to apply some penetrating oil, I noticed that the passenger side sheet metal was damaged by rust where it connects to the cab. This wasn't a huge surprise to me, as the inside of the cab is also rusted out where the fresh air heater would attach. I was hoping to leave everything untouched, as it seems to be firmly in place at the moment. Once I can make the truck move on it's own, I planned to address the metal repair. I need to be able to move the truck out of the garage to do this, as I'm sure that I would cause a fire in my garage with welding or grinding. Taking the front clip off isn't really the issue. Storing it while I get to everything is the issue. It's a sad reality for me, but I have no space in my garage for that. Maybe, once I install the engine, that floor space could store the clip. I'll have to think this through....

Thanks, though, for the suggestions!

I removed the front grill and supports along with the rad. I also used a load leveler . I am glad I had that tool.

I had wondered if that would work. I also have the load leveler. How bad was the angle and how much back and forth was required?

All of the rusted/stuck bolts either broken off or cut off. A few remaining bolts still there, but loosened, so the clip doesn't fall down. Hopefully I'll get the clip off and the engine installed this coming weekend.

Now, back to the original question: other tips, tricks, advice or pitfalls to avoid when I try to install the engine. Anything else?

Heating rusted or stuck bolts with a torch and letting them cool down, oil when still warm, will allow most to be easily removed as the heat loosens the rust.

Ed

I've done 2 engine/tranny swaps recently on AD trucks, a 235/3-speed with torque tube on a 49 Chevy 3100 and a 350/TH350 auto on a 49 GMC 100.
I documented them on youtube. Some are informational and helpful, some are rambling & probably not as engine swaps on AD's were new to me at the time. I figured it out as I went. It's not rocket science and if you have mechanical abilities you will be successful. Don't get in a hurry and address the problems/concerns as you encounter them, they'll be very evident if there.
Good luck
Dave

I agree, good tutorial Greg on removing front clip.

Back in 90 or 91 I removed the 235 in my 55-1st 3600 with the fenders in place. I removed hood, hood latch/ filler plate, radiator, core support and grille. That method worked okay, but if I had it to do again I would remove the front clip as a unit.

A bare chassis and firewall is an excellent opportunity to break out the degreaser, wirebrush and clean up, repaint with por15, or whatever. I did that and am glad i did. I found several spots where rust was starting. Unless you plan on pulling the engine again, you wont have an opportunity like this so even if it adds some time to your schedule, its time well spent.