The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Re: What did you get done on your 'Bolt today?

I got my 4.10’s installed tonight!
Cruises a lot better now and no more leaks. I think the oil like substance inside the housing when i took it apart was probably from the 50’s haha.

I finally got that spare tire carrier installed on the '47! The keyed lock should be delivered tomorrow.

Thanks for your help with this project Harold46!!

For the first time I got my truck on a real road, and got it up to 50 mph! AND I got it inspected so I can get license plates.
Big deal, first time it has been out since 1981.

Tim

Bluesman, very COOL.

Got the radiator repaired and back in the truck a couple of weeks ago, and finished putting the top support and the hood on today. I noticed the generator was wobbling, so I tightened that up, as well as a small fuel leak at the carb. I went for a quick ride around town, and I’m again a very happy Bolter. Nothing better than driving these old trucks!

I removed the torsion bar suspension on my 1960 Apache shortbox, I got an 1987 suspension bolted in over the weekend.

Fitted up the grill after painting. Gotta make a few more adjustments but great progress.

Finished up the windshield washer jar install...

Removed the rusty, crusty tailgate chains and spent about an hour with them on the wire wheel. Soaked them in a jar of clean 30 weight, then wiped them down and reinstalled them. They turned out great!

So yesterday and today were very productive. With the help of some good friends, we were able to pull the front clip off and get the engine pulled. Put the engine on the Cradle and loaded it into my other truck to take to the machine shop in the morning. I will try adding some pictures soon.

Thanks to the Stovebolt nation for all your help and support!

Brian Moore

Installed custom fabricated 3" lowering blocks on the 10 bolt rear end, ('81 Camaro) on my '50 3100. I'm using the original leaf springs. I've replaced all of the bushings...nice and tight. As you are probably aware, the leaf spring pin is not centered on the spring. To maintain the original wheelbase, 116", I had to have the blocks made so that I could properly locate the 10 bolt and still utilize the leaf pin for "securing" it if you will to the axle. I fudged to 117" since I'm going to 18" rear wheels. I prefer to maintain the original look as far as wheelbase.

Gave the '51 a little love today. Changed oil and by-pass filter. Adjusted valves using Hotrod Lincoln's method. Cleaned and adjusted points. Checked compression.

Really happy with the compression test. 1st one in 6 years of ownership and about 15k of driving. After changing the 15w40 diesel oil and driving 10 miles or so to get things up to temp for the valve adj. session all cylinders were 120 to 125 psig dry. I was hoping for 100 psig.

RonR

Last few days I worked on getting the kink out of the center of the bumper apron I picked up on my mega-road trip this past spring.
Needed some way to push the flanges apart. First tried a single threaded affair tacked in place. Had some success, but not enough (Photos #1 & 2). Then dreamed up a pulling fixture so I could flatten the bulge where the flanges got pushed together. Had more success with that. I spread the all-thread pushers out so I had room for hammer and dolly work after pulling a bit. More photos.

For final straightening, I pulled out my running board press gizmo. Just about done, except for a bit more finishing hammer work.

Saturday morning I departed home on a 120 mile round trip road trip to a race shop and swap meet. it was a pretty day, the sun shining riding with the windows down enjoying my surroundings when all of a sudden I have hot running water in the cab of the truck.So I had to stop on the side of the road and disconnect the heater, luckily I had 1 gallon of water behind the seat. Back on the road made it to my destination attended the swap meet and headed back home. Cruising at 65 mph turning 2300 rpm with my t5 overdrive. When I made it back home ,stopped to fill the tank with gas and find the brake pedal slowly sinking to the floor. I guess now will be the time to change to the dual cylinder master cylinder. All in all it was still a good day in the sunshine for a nice ride.

Tommy, nothing like a nice drive in the winter when temps allow windows down. Also great when trouble strikes, and one's prepared.

Kevin, that's some great work. Hopefully I'll remember your technique when/if I need to do something similar.

Assigned machine duties as usual. Throttle shaft clashed with the coolant outlet tube on an LS with a FiTech port injector set up on a 1970 Jimmy(Blazer) mounted on a 2002 Tahoe 4wd chassis. The shaft needed shortened and a new set screw flat milled. Couldn't tap the shaft out of the accelerator cable pulley so bored a 25/64 hole in a 3/4" round stock to fit down over the 3/8 diameter throttle shaft; couldn't press on the end of the shaft as it is weak from the long slot in the center where the throttle plate goes. Used a 9/16 socket as a receiver for the pressed out shaft. Found out the reason the shaft wouldn't tap out is FiTech uses a SECOND set screw on top of the one that locks the cable pulley to the shaft. Needless to say the 55 ton press jut pushed the set screw out the side of the aluminum throttle cable pulley. Milled out the entire damage in the original set screw area, built up with the tig welder, milled surface flat and even with the adjoining surface, then drilled and tapped a new set screw hole. Now a mere two hours later I shortened the throttle shaft and milled a new set screw flat on it. Could only charge the customer for a half hour.

After 3 attempts I finally got the heater controls and heater box to fit into the same space.

Got the right side inner cab corner and rocker welded in today. The cab is finally starting to go back together. Was able to remove the bracing across the right side door opening as well once the rocker was in place. Put a little patch on the floor as well.

I got the new gas tank installed and shielded part of the rear wire harness.

Replaced the rear wheel seals on my 1949 4400. thanks for the help 3B finding the correct seals 3B!

I tore down and rebuilt my AD speedometer. I guess the first time around I wasn’t thorough enough. Lubed up and works great...on the drill. We will see how she performs on the 2nd “first drive” when the roads aren’t slush.

Jeez Kevin...you’re brave! Looking good, fella!

Even though it was yesterday, I finished up patching the passenger side floor and toeboard for my '58. Now to do the driver's side, it should be much easier and quicker!

Got welds on the rocker dressed up today and fitted the passenger side cab corner. Only 7 hours! Fit, cut, fit, cut, fit, trim, fit, hammer a little, fit, etc, etc.

Am I glad I have the cab on a rotisserie instead of doing this upside down? You bet I am.

Cab corner welded up today. I'm not as good as Robert (MPandC), so a little spot putty will be needed along the seam.
Plug welds along the B pillar, dot MIG welds on the horizontal seam, and spot welds along the inner corner and bottom where it meets the inner cab corner. The patch panel (Triplus brand) didn't need much massaging at all. I'm happy about that. Sure wish I had a one-sided spot welder. That would make the cowl panels so much easier to install.

Sorry Folks if this is sent twice, I'm new. Kevin did a good job, my attempt turned out looking like crunchy peanut butter. I had the guy do it, rats

There are welders and there are weld grinders....... I grind all my "welds".. and Progress is progress.

I finally got all the parts I needed to finish installing my new gas tank. The burb runs under its own power now.

Thanks
Actually the welders term for that is birds**t. I've made my share of welds that look like that. And I've worn out at least one grinder. Practice, practice, practice.

Got the driver's side repaired, now to do a little more floor work and then the kick panels.

Weekend update.
Changed the oil and fixed the brakes.

Got the Carter YF back from the shop in California completely rebuilt, so prior to installing it I put the truck up on ramps and drained 4 gallons of old ethanol gasoline from the tank. Didn’t want any of it running through the new carb. Now all I have to do is go buy 5 gallons of ethanol free gas to put back in the tank and then install the new Carter and it will be ready to start up. I sure hope it runs good.

I recently had some online tutoring about front suspension set up and proper steering geometry followed by a lecture on the sins of Hot Rodding a truck...all from HRL. This afternoon I ordered a 6 degree shim kit from Performance Online and new main leafs for the front springs from Classic Parts. I'm also looking at a reman Saginaw 708 steering gear from Lee Steering, they offer a unit with 14 to 1 ratio and a 35lbs pressure valve set up . I 'll need to rebuild the front spring pack and set the caster... again. The 59' should steer like a gocart after all this.

Thank You Jerry, I enjoyed being back in shop class.

When I rebuilt my front springs, along with new main springs from Classic Parts, I also bought spring liners with lips from Speedway PN 91033036-BLK for $12.99 for each spring pack. Classic has the liners but I couldn’t confirm if they have the lips to keep them in place. If you do go this route, buy new center spring bolts as the spring pack grows with the liners in place.

I can’t say how good they ride as I only put a few miles on them but they feel tight and are silent.

I inspected the rear light wire harness. I found one hidden repair that was loose and fixed it.

I bought the liners from Speedway several years ago when I built the spring packs the first time, I'll use them again on this go around... with the Teachers approval of course.

Changed the oil in the motor, gear box and rear end.



We then went out and got 600# of pathway rock for our side yard.

I got the new rear shocks all permanently mounted up today. It was definitely not as easy as I originally planned. The 3/4 ton stuff is all on its own especially with it being a ‘49. The easiest thing for me to do was to weld in 2 plates and mount the new upper mounts to them and then on the rear end i used some shock stem eliminators with some washers so i could mount to the rear without any real modifications. Im happy with the end result for the little work I actually had to do. Heres some pics.

Weekend update: Replaced the rad hoses and cleaned the engine bay.