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#133047 09/16/2005 12:49 AM
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The 235 I plan on rebuilding is a 1959 out of a car. I'm sure it has a hydralic cam. The question is, should I use a hydralic cam for the rebuild or solid? I plan on 2 carbs with headers. I see Patricks offers bigger cams, but both are solid type. Why no hyd.? Any suggestion on grinds?
Thanks,
Roy

#133048 09/21/2005 6:12 PM
Joined: Dec 2000
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The 59 blocks lifter galleys were drilled for hyd or solids. As to which is up to you. Either are ok. The Patrick Solid lifter "Howard's" M4F 3/4 cams are fine cams. Make sure you get the solid lifters from him at the same time.


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#133049 09/22/2005 11:13 PM
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I've heard the problem with the hydraulic is getting enough oil to them to keep them pumped up.

The other real problem with hydraulics is that they are very very expensive by comparison to solids. Somebody (Eggie Machine) bought up all the ones a manufacturer had and now the price is through the roof.

Solid lifters are fine, they just require you to adjust them a few times after you build the engine to get the lash to what the cam manufacturer reccomends.

You will notice that the solid lifters have a groove cut in them which lines up with the oil passeges in the block. The groove on the lifters I got from Patrick were stock and not too deep. The other day I saw a set on e-bay that had a deeper groove for $25/set of 12 (Auction Number 8000855675) Cross References: Sealed Power #AT874; TRW #VL34; Perfect Circle #213-1657. They look like they'd promote better oil flow and lubrication.

There are lots of different cams out there to choose from. Patrick's has Howard's cams, Langdon has dual pattern cams, Clifford's sells a variety of cams.

The 1954 corvette came with a 235 using a stock 261 cam...

Don't forget to replace the valve seats to accomodate unleaded gasoline. Also, drill and tap the two timing cover bolts with the heads inside the oil pan to bolt from the outside rather than have to pull the oilpan next time you need to pull the timing cover.

If you need connecting rod bolts during the rebuilt, try big block chevy bolts and once they're on the rod grind the heads, like they do with stroker engines, and then balance the pistons and rods. If you don't grind the heads they'll hit the cam...

Rocker arm assembly can be rebuilt for about $100 plus shipping.

Search here for tips on how to build your own HEI distributor, it is very simple.

Think about converting the Road Tube to a PCV valve.

Consider having the machine shop drill your block so your 235 will have full pressure full circulating oil filtration.

In a month or two Patricks should have their new Fenton Dual Carb Intakes which are supposed to mount up to the Fenton Dual Exhuast without needing any grinding!!!

Before you buy valve springs for your head figure out which cam your gonna use 'cause if its got lots of lift you may need a higher tension spring to combat spring bind/coiling.


'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
#133050 09/23/2005 12:50 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I am new to working on 6 cyl and have realy been helped on this site.

Roy


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