Sorry guys, and gals, I did a search of this site and still cannot find a definitive answer. And not all of the vendors agree: How were the vehicle (body) serial number plates/ identification plates attached to the door pillar in the various years? I'm talking Chevy A-D series trucks. Both of my 1950's had the plate attached with two small rusted Phillips head screws in opposite corners, that I have no doubt were original. Some have reported that clutch head screws were used in some years. Starting in 1952 (53?) hollow rivets were used. I actually don't remember how the plate was attached in my 55.1 that I bought in 1989.
Has anyone published a guide to this info?
I know we have discussed VIN's and serial numbers and titles ad nauseam, but how can I tell if the plate is original/ correct. I'm pretty sure if I see a plate attached with shiny new pop rivets that it's not original, which I have seen.
Thanks guys. Jim Carter sells the clutch head screws same as in Tim's link above. He has the 51 and later rivets listed wo/ a picture, and a note that they are on backorder. Anyone else have the correct rivets available? Could a guy find these at a hardware store? How are they installed? I seem to remember a discussion recently about those rivets, but can't remember where. Thanks!
Thanks guys. Jim Carter sells the clutch head screws same as in Tim's link above. He has the 51 and later rivets listed wo/ a picture, and a note that they are on backorder. Anyone else have the correct rivets available? Could a guy find these at a hardware store? How are they installed? I seem to remember a discussion recently about those rivets, but can't remember where. Thanks!
The Filling Station has them. I just ordered them last night, and they apparently in stock, as I got a shipment notice this morning.
Gord, I once had a Model A body that was held together with Robertson (square recess) fasteners. Seems like they used a lot of them back in that era (late 20's - early 30's).
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I have owned & parted out over 100 AD trucks over the last 40 years & here is my experience with VIN plate attachment...
1947-1950 Chevy trucks used the machine hex head/clutch head screws. 1951-1955.1 Chevy trucks used rivets. I have never seen a Chevy truck with factory phillips head screws.
The only wild card is the GMC trucks because in addition to the hex head/clutch head screws..... I have seen a few of those attached with factory phillips head/pan head sheetmetal screws.
As Brad mentioned....Using the incorrect or brand new shiny hardware to attach an original VIN plate is a sure way to raise suspicion of the validity of the truck with prospective buyers , motor vehicle departments & law enforcement.
As Brad mentioned....Using the incorrect or brand new shiny hardware to attach an original VIN plate is a sure way to raise suspicion of the validity of the truck with prospective buyers , motor vehicle departments & law enforcement.
I'm not worried about shiny hardware, although in some jurisdictions, it could definitely be a problem. A dip in phosphoric acid can easily take the shine off the rivets is someone is really worried about it. Someone building a truck from pieces without a title, might have a problem, but if you have a title that matches the VIN plate to start with, it shouldn't be. But again, YMMV.
Last edited by klhansen; 10/17/201910:40 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I knew there would be mixed reactions to my questions. I also Know both of my 1950’s were built in St. Louis and had Phillips screws. Thanks for all discussion.
I have owned & parted out over 100 AD trucks over the last 40 years & here is my experience with VIN plate attachment...
1947-1950 Chevy trucks used the machine hex head/clutch head screws. 1951-1955.1 Chevy trucks used rivets. I have never seen a Chevy truck with factory phillips head screws.
The only wild card is the GMC trucks because in addition to the hex head/clutch head screws..... I have seen a few of those attached with factory phillips head/pan head sheetmetal screws.
As Brad mentioned....Using the incorrect or brand new shiny hardware to attach an original VIN plate is a sure way to raise suspicion of the validity of the truck with prospective buyers , motor vehicle departments & law enforcement.
I would agree on the GMC used Phillips pan head screws
Thanks all. And thanks Brad. In your picture of the 1949 GMC ID plate the clutch head screws appear to be round instead of hex shaped. Which helps make my point that the attachment of the plates was inconsistent.
Thanks all. And thanks Brad. In your picture of the 1949 GMC ID plate the clutch head screws appear to be round instead of hex shaped. Which helps make my point that the attachment of the plates was inconsistent.
I zoomed in on that picture and they are hex.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
My '51 3800 was built in Oakland CA and the number plate is riveted on with the hollow rivets.
My '51 also came from the Oakland plant and had the hollow rivets as well.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
These are the rivets. You place them in a hole and use a small punch in the middle to expand the "tabs".
Phillips head screws is an interesting subject. They were not all that popular back in the early days. They became more popular when electric/pneumatic drivers were used on the assembly line. The driver was self centering and self locating. OK for low torque applications. If you see Phillips head used on the plate and nowhere else on the truck................red flag.
This post is bouncing between how to tell if a plate is original by the looking at the fasteners................ and how to attach a plate........... and how to make it not look suspicious. Let us not forget that you are not supposed to attach a plate yourself without DMV supervision. The Stovebolt is not here to help otherwise. There is no legit reason for a plate to have ever come off, even to sandblast or paint the truck. If it's off, call the DMV.
You can't buy a title and plate and use them. You can't buy a blank plate, stamp it and use it. You can't take a plate off of a salvage truck and use it. You can't do anything without DMV instructions and inspection. Getting away with it is no proof that it is OK.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Thank you bartamos. That puts a cap on this thread.
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)