The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Question regarding chassis mods for towing

Hi all,

I have a 55 big window that I would like to completely redo into a quality daily driver/shop truck. I want to use the truck for towing a car trailer and of course car within. It is a short box half ton by the way. No mods yet to the chassis, but I am going to either camaro sub frame it or IFS system, and the rear will remain leaf but upgraded to 4 wheel disc all around.

If I can keep the original frame (depending on all of your responses, but it is in good shape now), I plan on boxing most all of the frame, leaving openings for wiring access, ect. I would then re-enforce it with 2" tubular for cross braces where possible (I would likely emulate one of the aftermarket chassis I often see in ads).

After all of this, would I still be able to haul 5500 lbs. with the original chassis beefed up, or should I have just bought a whole new chassis set up to haul this much weight?

I can do all of the fab work myself, so labor isn't an issue (and I definitely have the time since I am fairly money challenged). Just wondering if after boxing and some bracing, would an old frame like this be up to hauling that much weight even after all of the re-enforcing? Or do I have to get a new aftermarket chassis?

Thanks in advance!!!
Tobin.

If your gonna use it for towing the first thing you need to do is update the brake system

Lets start at the back and work forward. The stock frame should be fine for just about any towing you can handle. These trucks are Chevys and are tough. The frame will have to be fitted with a suitable class III or IV receiver hitch assuming your trailer is a bumper pull. Once you find a receiver hitch that will match the width of your frame rails you will have to bolt it or weld it in place. I would suggest bolting using at least class 5 hardware.

Boxing the frame will not increase your towing capacity and is only necessary if you want a stiffer chassis for handling purposes.

The rear axle will be improved by going with a truck 12 bolt which are readily available in salvage yards with gearing of 3.73 or 4.11. This gearing will affect your mileage so an overdrive tranny would be wise for your daily driving. Whereas they did not come with disc brakes you really do not need them. Drum brakes work just fine. While on the subject, you will need to install a brake controller for the electric brakes that should come on a trailer of the capacity you describe.

Engine and trans will need to be up to the task in the torque department and have adequate cooling which none of the task force models were blessed with when it comes to high performance motors. Trans cooler and oil coolers will be needed.

Front end will be good with either the camaro or the IFS kit. I would go with the camaro subframe myself.

Good luck and send in pics.

Not to hijack this thread, but I have a related question regarding towing. My 54 GMC 1/2-ton longbed came with a "Bardon" rear bumper, that I was told was a dealer option at the time. This bumper is quite stout and has a hitch ball already attached. My question is how strong is this Bardon bumper and just what type of towing capacity will it be able to handle safely? Here is a pic of the Bardon bumper:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/109004051/109004051DoOMlv

Thanks.

Most often the towing capacity of a truck is determined by the weakest link. The ball, the coupler and the hitch many times have different ratings. 10,000, 6,000 with load distributing bars, 5,000 tongue weight. The truck frame is probably the strongest item in the mix so the rating will start with the hardware used to secure the receiver hitch or, in the case of Cujo8, the bumper to the frame. Grade 5 or Grade 8 minimum. If you are not sure of your hardware or what you have is old original bolts/nuts, change them out to a known quantity. You can get Grade 8 hardware from any good hardware store and Lowes has it also. (Home Depot has chosen not to carry it in the Houston area). The hitch pin that holds the hitch bar in the receiver is also another link that must be up to spec for your application.
I would rate the Bardon bumper as a 5,000 lb max. Always use safety chains and criss-cross them under the tongue of the trailer.

On my rig, the trailer is rated at 7,000 lbs but weighs in at 1300 so I can carry anything 5,700 lbs or lighter. Most cars and trucks are around 4,000 or less so I feel I am good with a 6,000 lbs rated ball. Others may want more of a margin. As long as you are on the high side then I feel you are safe.

I should have included drive train info (planning on mild 350 with torque numbers about 350 or so), 400 tranny with OD and and cooler hooked to a 12 bolt rear end (I will likely go disc anyway, just for looks). Reliability, safety, and practicality is the objective, the trailer will haul the hi po toys ;)In the end the goal is to build a mild hot rod shop truck that really works like a truck when you need it to.

I am planning on fabricating my own reciever hitch since I will be lowering the truck and would prefer to weld it to the frame and through/around the bumper (I am known as mr. overkill amongst my friends, but everything I make is basically bomb proof when I am done with it ) Electric brake controller installed is a given on this project.

Still getting my research together for what I will need and need to do as the truck sits in a barn at my inlaws 60 miles away. I will get pics to the gallery when I get a chance. Thanks much Houston for the insight, much appreciated (and I really enjoyed the update pics from your project, your truck is really coming along well!!! I know you are not crazy about the polishing, but those Edelbrock valve covers are bitchin looking in there!).

Tobin.

Tobin,
One thing I will mention if you decide to box the frame is to remember to provide access inside the frame rail to access bed mounting hardware and anything else that may be bolted to the frame. That is why I added the holes to my boxing plates.

If I could believe my son would keep the valve covers polished I would consider replating them but you probably know how that goes.

houston54,
where did you get your boxing plates, and did you cut the holes in them? if so what did you use? i want to do the same in my 59 after i finish my nova clip.

The plates forward of the k member were made from some 1/8 - 3/16 sheet I had laying around getting rusty. The rear plates were cut from a partial 54-55.1 frame I had laying around. I used some construction paper to make templates for the overall shape.

The holes were cut with my cutting torch. I found a couple of lids to something in the garage and used then as templates. The holes were then smoothed with a grinding stone on the angle grinder. It did not take too long to get them done.