Is it necessary to remove a master cylinder in order to rebuild it? There is only a very slow leak at the from of the MC, and otherwise has been working great. Thanks,
It’s not usually necessary to remove master or wheel cylinders to hone and rebuild them. Sometimes better to leave them installed if removing might lead to more work than you’re prepared for. Alternatively often easier to just remove them and work on things on the bench and get a better view.
Assuming we are talking about a below the floor master cylinder, I just removed mine in about 15 minutes on my 52’ 3100 to rebuild it. After cleaning and honing, I decided to replace it due to corrosion in the bore that I could not remove. I don’t think I would have seen the issue with the master cylinder installed. I also can’t fathom performing all the work involved in the rebuild lying on my back. In addition, the back of the master cylinder is only a few inches from the rear transmission crossmember so honing it would be near impossible.
I second Grigg’s suggestion to remove and work on the bench. Your back will thank you
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Anyone know where a guy can get s dust cover rubber boot for the pushrod plunger? I have nalresdy replaced the interanls, but now can’t find the dust boot independently to complete the rebuild.
Sorry to hijack...😜
I vote remove it as well. Working on your feet is so nice; plus you don’t have dirt falling in your eyes (or your new cylinder!).
Last edited by Fox; 10/10/20193:25 AM.
1970 Chevrolet C10 Grandpa's -- My first truck -- In progress to shiny Follow the build in the Project Journal 1950 Chevrolet 1-Ton Dually "Ole Red Girl" In the Stovebolt Gallery More pictures here 1951 GMC 9430 1 ton dually--Shiny! | 1972 Chevrolet C20- Rusty- the puzzle box lid for the C10 | 1962 AMC Rambler American- my wife's Parts trucks- 1951 GMC 9300 | 1951-GMC 9430 | 1951- Chevrolet 1300
I vote remove it as well. Working on your feet is so nice; plus you don’t have dirt falling in your eyes (or your new cylinder!).
I try to work sitting down whenever possible. Even nicer than working on my feet. I removed my MC after the cab was off so didn't have to worry about the dirt.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Anyone know where a guy can get s dust cover rubber boot for the pushrod plunger? I have nalresdy replaced the interanls, but now can’t find the dust boot independently to complete the rebuild.
You should find what you need on one of these sites.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Morerog: I have never even thought of doing it on the truck so don't know how hard it is. I've only done it on the bench. could not do a good inspection, ream job, parts insert job or bleed job lying under the truck. It's the brakes you know.
Hijacker: Most, but not all, of the parts at Steele are American made with American rubber. They will last way longer than all the other off shore pieces. Email them to see if this boot is made in USA. If not, the cheaper ones may be from the same source*. If made here, buy that one. Steele used to be 100% American made parts. I guess they had to compete with some parts or not enough demand to build tooling. Anyway, they still make most at their factory.
* Their site says they buy some parts from outside vendors who buy from off shore.
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