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Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 51
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 51
Is it necessary to remove a master cylinder in order to rebuild it?
There is only a very slow leak at the from of the MC, and otherwise has been working great.
Thanks,

Roger Schroeder
1951 Chevrolet 3600.

Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
G
.
.
G Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,878
It’s not usually necessary to remove master or wheel cylinders to hone and rebuild them.
Sometimes better to leave them installed if removing might lead to more work than you’re prepared for.
Alternatively often easier to just remove them and work on things on the bench and get a better view.


•1951 GMC 250 in the Project Journals
•1948 Chevrolet 6400 - Detroit Diesel 4-53T - Roadranger 10 speed overdrive - 4 wheel disc brakes
•1952 Chevrolet 3800 pickup
---All pictures---
"First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,496
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Assuming we are talking about a below the floor master cylinder, I just removed mine in about 15 minutes on my 52’ 3100 to rebuild it. After cleaning and honing, I decided to replace it due to corrosion in the bore that I could not remove. I don’t think I would have seen the issue with the master cylinder installed. I also can’t fathom performing all the work involved in the rebuild lying on my back. In addition, the back of the master cylinder is only a few inches from the rear transmission crossmember so honing it would be near impossible.

I second Grigg’s suggestion to remove and work on the bench. Your back will thank you
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Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Joined: Apr 2002
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F
Fox Offline
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
A teacher, but always an apprentice.
F Offline
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,168
Anyone know where a guy can get s dust cover rubber boot for the pushrod plunger? I have nalresdy replaced the interanls, but now can’t find the dust boot independently to complete the rebuild.

Sorry to hijack...😜

I vote remove it as well. Working on your feet is so nice; plus you don’t have dirt falling in your eyes (or your new cylinder!).

Last edited by Fox; 10/10/2019 3:25 AM.

1970 Chevrolet C10
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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Originally Posted by Fox
I vote remove it as well. Working on your feet is so nice; plus you don’t have dirt falling in your eyes (or your new cylinder!).
I try to work sitting down whenever possible. Even nicer than working on my feet. thumbs_up
I removed my MC after the cab was off so didn't have to worry about the dirt.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
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H
'Bolter
'Bolter
H Offline
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,321
Quote
Anyone know where a guy can get s dust cover rubber boot for the pushrod plunger? I have nalresdy replaced the interanls, but now can’t find the dust boot independently to complete the rebuild.

You should find what you need on one of these sites.


TRY HERE

Ebay

Steele Rubber

Harold

Last edited by Harold46; 10/10/2019 11:38 AM.

Harold
Is a restoration ever finished?
Joined: Feb 2019
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AD Addict & Tinkerer
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You can buy it at Classic Parts but shipping is $9.95 minimum. Do you need anything else?

https://www.classicparts.com/1947-72-Master-Cylinder-Boot-Manual-Brake/productinfo/71%2D285/

Last edited by Phak1; 10/10/2019 11:56 AM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
Project Journals
Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
B
Sir Searchalot
Sir Searchalot
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,983
Morerog: I have never even thought of doing it on the truck so don't know how hard it is. I've only done it on the bench.
could not do a good inspection, ream job, parts insert job or bleed job lying under the truck. It's the brakes you know.

Hijacker:
Most, but not all, of the parts at Steele are American made with American rubber. They will last way longer than all the other off shore pieces. Email them to see if this boot is made in USA. If not, the cheaper ones may be from the same source*. If made here, buy that one.
Steele used to be 100% American made parts. I guess they had to compete with some parts or not enough demand to build tooling. Anyway, they still make most at their factory.

* Their site says they buy some parts from outside vendors who buy from off shore.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn

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