The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Deciphering VIN

I have been trying to decipher the VIN on a 1950 3100 I bought a few weeks ago. The only thing I can come up with is the original builder of the truck had a new plate punched wrong. It is titled and registered so I am not worried on that front.

HBAxxxxxx and there is not a numerical at the beginning.

Any help would be appreciated.

My guess is the "B" should have been a "P"...

Mike B

That H could originally have been a 14 - or else it's a 1 and a 4 stamped so close together that it looks like an H. That would explain the missing first numeral.

Waiting for the fear mongers to tell you that your truck is illegal and you're in violation of federal law and will go to prison for the rest of your life.

Thanks for the reply guys. The metal tag is definately not original to the truck. Currently it is stamped clear. I am really looking to ensure it is a 1950 and to see if there would be anyway to tell the true original vin. I didnt check the vin closely before purchasing as he had it registered in the same county and state as I will be registering and figured it wouldn't be a problem.

This has strayed away from the OP’s help request. Back on topic or it gets locked. Thank you.

Back in 1950 the engine serial number was used by most, if not all State's for titling purposes.

HBAxxxxx is an engine serial number and would be different than the Body number.

H = 1950
B = 216 in a 3100 Truck
A = Flint
xxxxx = unit number starting with 1001

So, your new VIN tag has been stamped with an engine number to match the title...I assume the original 216 engine is gone?

Mike B

That would make sense. Yes the 216 is gone but not sure how long ago. Thanks for the info. I'm sure I'm not alone but I would love to be able to track the lineage of the truck.

Unfortunately that info went out the door with the old Body tag and is lost forever...

Mike B

I agree with Mike B. About the engine serial number and that the history is lost.

Your title number appears to be for a 1950 216 engine. You have good papers, so no worries. Now you want to know if the truck is actually a 1950.
In my opinion, since the ID plate is attached to the cab, then the cab should be considered the "truck". One problem with the '47-'50 cabs is that the ID plates are held on by small screws. This makes it easy to switch ID plates without any evidence of doing so.
If the current plate is attached with small screws, then you have a '47-'50 cab. ('51-'55.1 ID plates are held on by rivets, but the holes in the hinge pillar are larger and not threaded.)
If the top of the cowl, behind the hood seal lacks a channel which allows rain water to travel left and right along the top of the cowl, then you have a '47 cab. (The rain channel was added after1947.)
If there is a center rear cab mount and the reinforcement structure to support it inside of the cab, then you have a '47. (A behind the seat gas tank won't fit in a '47.)
If the center headliner bow is screwed on, and there is no center rear cab mount, then you have a '48 to early '49 cab.
If the center headliner bow is free floating, then you have either a late '49 or a '50 cab.
I do not know how to differentiate between a late '49 and a '50 cab.
Carl

Carl's "differentiations" are excellent.

Here are some more early 1949 vs late 1949 features (much of the information provided by Jim Carter).

Here are 1950 features (again, much of the information provided by Jim Carter).

Here is another excellent article that describes 1949 and 1950 differences.

I bought my 50 from the original owner and the title and vin start with HBA so it has not been changed or modified. I just think at the factory they were just not that concerned about the serial numbers. Yes I think the B should have been a P.

Maybe the "VIN" was the Engine Serial Number, in your state and in that year (not an uncommon "happening")?

Do you have the original engine?

If yes, what is the Engine Serial Number - pressed into the ledge in the block, at the rear of the distributor.

The driver's side cowl vent lever changed in 1950. See the spotter's guide.
Spotter's Guide

Yes I have the original block. Serial number starts with HBA but from there all of the numbers are different than on the door plate. Must have been made on a Friday 😂

flattop49,

What is the code on the door plate?
What is the code on the block?

The code on the door plate is called the Vehicle Serial Number, and, the code on the Engine/block is called the Engine Serial Number (it is pressed into the engine-block on the machined ledge at the rear of where the distributor enters the block).

Those codes would be different codes.

locations and meanings of various 1950 Chevrolet Truck Serial Numbers (codes)

The block and the door serial number start with HBA but the serial number has 5 numbers but the block has 8 numbers. None of the numbers are in the same sequence.

Curiouser and curiouser... As Tim's link details, the Vehicle Serial Number for a 1950 1/2-ton starts with 1 or 2 numerals that identify the assembly plant, then H for 1950, then P for 1/2-ton, then a letter for the month of assembly, followed by the sequence number. That's the number that was originally on the door plate. Since your door plate number does not fit this pattern, it cannot be the original plate. Despite the way the numbers are stamped - not always straight or level - the factory was always concerned about the serial numbers.

There is much discussion about the fact that some states used the engine serial number as the VIN on the title. I have read that some states removed the body serial number tags... though that info needs a good citation.

If your title has as the VIN a number that agrees with the number on the door plate - no worries. If your title has as the VIN the engine serial number of the actual engine in the truck - no worries. Any other mismatched numbers - you do have worries... Though most states have a legal way to overcome those types of title/VIN problems, but you may have many hurdles to jump over.