Hello; I'm adding a fuse block after the ignition switch, and wonder if I'm on track. The photo shows what I'm thinking will work but would sure benefit from your input. Obviously the block is not in yet, but to illustrate;
On the left side the blue wire coming in from the left will be 10 gauge coming from the ignition switch. Since this old block does not appear to have a metal bar extending down the lead side my plan is to link each fuse down the line. Each pole after the fuse leads to an accessory (radio, cigarette lighter, blower motor, etc.) and then from the accessory will be grounded to the body.
My simple (but complicated) question is... will this work?
Not sure what aspect you are asking "will work"? If the words "after the ignition switch" means the ignition switch will supply the power, then one side will be switched hot, the other side will be switched fused hot. I would definitely not use that fuse block unless you are trying to simulate what you think was stock. Where will it be mounted?
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
Instead of the ign switch carrying the full load of all those circuits, you might what to consider using the key switch to activate a relay and let it carry the load. I did this recently with good results.
May increase the ign switch's longevity. Good luck Dave
Roger, I can't tell for sure from the photo, but the first terminal on that block where the blue wire feeds in looks like it may connect through to its mounting bracket. I would not use that terminal if that is correct, since it would normally ground when mounted to anything metal. Instead, you could use the first fuse terminal as the feed point, and jump to the next. But in fact, since that block has a cracked end - on the right - the insulator material is probably brittle, and to echo Bart', I would not recommend using that particular block.
It would be better to get a new block with an appropriate feed buss, such as made by Blue Sea Systems, for example: 6 Glass Fuse Block. They also have fuse blocks that use modern blade fuses, and choices for the number of circuits. If interested, look around their website, find a part number for a style that you like, and shop online at multiple sources for better pricing. Their blocks are generally better made than some of the no-name, foreign-sourced fuse blocks that you may see online.
Any high current circuits (typically lights, horns, etc) would benefit from using point-of-load relays as Dave suggested, although for best protection, they should be fused in their power feed, in any event.
If you are going to use this old style fuse block, smash a piece of copper tubing flat, and drill 4 or 5 holes in it as a bus bar. Better idea is to get an ATC fuse block.
Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
A relay is a good idea. On my 46 I ran separate grounds to every light. I used the ground or neutral bus strip used in circuit breaker panels as a common connection point. They sell them separately at the home improvement stores.
Thanks all. I went with the ATC fuse block approach for unswitched items (headlights, etc.). I like the idea of letting the switch activate a relay for switched accessories. Already installed relays for headlights.
GWWirth; If I read your note correctly you ran a ground wire back from every light to a common grounding bar. (Better than me trying to find a good ground under the rust). Did the bar get the ground directly from the battery ground strap? Thanks
