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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 | I don't know much if anything about air compressors. I have a 60 gallon Speedaire single phase 220V vertical tank compressor without an operator or parts manual. Its been acting up and running poorly. I believe it is a single stage low buck compressor I bought used a few years ago. It does produce air - but the mechanics of it are worrying me.
The on-off switch has what looks like a small brass pressure release or check valve. This past winter, when the tank was full, that switch with valve just started blowing continuous air or releasing a constant loud hiss. Then the belt started squealing bad, and it now smells like it is really hot. And the compressor cylinder or piston clanks. It seems that the compressor then runs full time when this valve begins to hiss away. I suspect this is causing the overheating issue or belt slip because of time and wear.. or is the issue deeper than that and in the compressor itself? I should add that it takes a fair amount of effort and time for the unit to get up to full speed - to gain momentum - it seems to be bogging down and working very hard to get up to normal.
Oil level is full.
I need a tutorial about these issues - and about compressors in general. Can you help point me in the right direction to do some further research?
1. Is this brass item a pressure release? and is that part replaceable or, do I need to replace the entire switch?
2. I have found that I cannot use a random orbital disc sander without it over-taxing the compressor - meaning I don't think it is supplying the air I need for bodywork. It works fine for an air nailer or intermittent pneumatic air fastener tools, and for using my HVLP spray gun. But I want to acquire a sandblaster someday soon and run an inline sander or an orbital sander.
What would you recommend? Would an 80 gallon compressor be better suited? and how what type of compressor would be and more efficient?
For a guy that has several truck projects going, and moving into retirement - what investment would you make into a compressor? Type? brand? etc.
I'm open to learning more, as I said, help point me in the right direction and I can do further research...your opinions are welcomed.
Thanks. Tom
Last edited by tom moore; 09/06/2019 2:05 PM.
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | Answer to #1..... yes and yes.
#2..... I don’t think the single stage compressor you have is really rated for continuous use. Upgrading to the 80 gal unit will provide enough air for the D/A but you will have to open your wallet wide to get a good compressor sitting on top of the tank. Good luck.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 | D/A's use gobs of air. A single stage, 60 gallon will have a hard time keeping up. Trying to power a sandblaster with it is impossible, My way around the D/A issue, was to go electric. My Dewalt does a great job and probably ends up costing less in the long run. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 | Seems like the air coming from the switch is not the valve afterall, but the cast aluminum housing that holds the switch, valve and line together. Might be a crack or hole that ket go on it.
One problem solved. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,214 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,214 | what investment would you make into a compressor? Type? brand? etc. I've always been a Quincy fan...by many they are considered to be the Cadillac of compressors (Northern Tool carries them). Bigger tanks take longer to fill which means more run time...not always a good thing. I think you'll need something in the 5 to 7.5 hp, two stage range with either a 60 or 80 gallon tank. I sand blast with a 5hp Quincy, 2-stage, 60 gallon vertical tank and yeah, the compressor runs while blasting, but I never run low on air pressure...stays at about 90 pounds all day long. I also like that it's made in the USA...I like keeping my neighbors working! Mike B  | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,006 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,006 | It sounds like your compressor is a bit worn out, or just undersized. If you've taken care of the leaking fitting, there's nothing to say that you couldn't replace just the compressor itself, along with the drive belt/pulley system (which possibly needs adjustment) and keep the tank. You didn't say how many horsepower the motor is rated for. If it's 5 HP, you'd be fine replacing the pump. The critical thing is how many CFM the pump will put out at your desired pressure. The tank is really there to reduce the number of motor starts, and allow the pump to "catch up" with the air demand. You can get an estimate of your current pump CFM by measuring the time it takes for the pump to raise the pressure in the tank to the rating pressure from a lower pressure. Your tank is 60 gallons which is about 8 cubic feet. So for example, if your compressor runs for one minute to raise the pressure from 80 psi to 90 psi, then it's approximate capacity is 8 CFM at ~85 psi. I have a small sandblast gun (haven't used it yet) that the instructions say requires an air volume of 11 CFM. If you hit that, you'll be good.
Last edited by klhansen; 09/06/2019 5:48 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 | Ok, Mike B. I've seen the Quincy compressors online and they appear to be well made. I agree a two stage is best. 5 - 7.5 hp should be sufficient knowing that its CFM's I'm after. Good to know that your set up works for you. Will look into after-all. Think I'll sell this single stage 60 gallon once I have a newer one delivered. There are a couple bigger ticket shop tools that I would like to acquire - a better compressor, and a gantry for starters. Then its a shop addition, a lift,, build a portable spray booth, will it ever end? Ha!
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 | Thanks Kevin. I may look into and was wondering about that. This was an early Speedaire made in 2001. Serial number 00069. 2Hp motor. It has worked but barely adequately knowing its limitations. Good for what I describe, filling tires, etc. But not to run tools that demand more air for longer periods of time. Its a clanker.
Last edited by tom moore; 09/06/2019 6:39 PM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 | Found this 3-4 part series... https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...30F1749AB9816EC37DD&&FORM=VRDGARLeeson (higher quality motor ) 7.5 hp single phase compressor motor: $550.00 (others are as low as $215.00) 2 Stage 5 - 7.5 hp 2 cylinder compressor pump $815.00 (higher end pump other as low as 400.00 and upward of $2400.00 for industrial pumps) Spec: 17 CFM @ 175 PSI (5 HP), 23 CFM @ 175 PSI (7.5 HP) So... I can retrofit and upgrade this tank (assuming its good) for a 7.5 hp 2 stage 175 cfm compressor for about 1400.00. Not including the unknows for plumbing, pulley etc. Or as low as 700.00 for lower cost pumps and motors. I('m beginning to think the tank is the cheapest part of a compressor)
Last edited by tom moore; 09/06/2019 6:49 PM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,006 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,006 | With a 2 HP motor, you're going to be hard pressed to get enough air for what you need. The motor has to have enough power to run the pump. A 5 HP would be minimum for what you need.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,214 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 6,214 | This is what I have...got it last year...right at $1400. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200350475_200350475The compressor it replaced was also a Quincy...5hp two cylinder single stage that ran well for me for over 25 years and was used when I got it, but it was on a very old (1933) 60 gallon tank that I was getting worried about, so I treated myself to a new unit. Mike B  | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Quincy compressors are or were well regarded as excellent quality for many many years. The QR series I believe is what earned that reputation. They are heavy, run slower than other brands might, so quieter and last longer because, and they have internal oil pumps and often external spin on filters. Industrial quality all around. They usually have unloaders too that work on oil pressure and before oil pressure builds at startup or if pressure is lost they unload and freewheel for easier starting, longer life, and to reduce damage if run out of oil or other oil system failure.
The QT series are a somewhat newer offering as their more affordable line with fewer of those good design features. They may not all be US made compressors?
The recent QR series are similar to the good ones of old but have fewer cooling fins on the cylinders and rumours of not being quite as good as the old ones.
I have about 6 Quincy compressors, two of the cheaper QT series, 3 older and one newer QR series with the oil pumps. All good compressors. | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 | Thanks for the information. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2018 Posts: 112 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Oct 2018 Posts: 112 | You didn't mention. So I'll just throw it in; If your tank isn't emptied, that is, if you don't empty the water accumulation in the tank. It will limit the tanks (air) capacity, which also effects the run time for the pump -- seems to run constantly. But in the end, even if you do find that there is a lot of water in the tank. It looks that if your wallet will support it, it's probably in your best interest to simply get a good (better) replacement pump for your tank.  Harbor Freight often has decent pumps on sale for a good price, and most of them offer a lifetime warranty -- and made in the US of A.  Chris
Last edited by Detroit Iron; 09/09/2019 6:38 PM.
'64 Chev C20 LWB stepside (Ol'Blue)
| | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 934 | I decided to replace the switch and sell this hobbyist level one and upgrade. By the time i upgrade to a better motor, pump, switch, wiring and plumbing - I might as well buy a new one with a new tank. This tank seems fine but its old. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2011 Posts: 1,901 | If you have the room it could still make a nice reservoir tank .
Give me ambiguity or give me something else
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 367 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jul 2009 Posts: 367 | Woah !! just posted about a sand blaster and read this post. Depressing. I looked hard at compressers when I bought this one but looks like I should have cashed in my 401k to get something much larger. But thanks for the knowledge
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | . . . . Harbor Freight often has decent pumps on sale for a good price, and most of them offer a lifetime warranty -- and made in the US of A.  Chris "We guarantee this product to be free from defects in materials and workmanship 90 days from the date of purchase. Limitations apply." Chris, when did you buy a lifetime warranty air compressor from Harbor Freight? They used to provide lifetime warranty on all tools. I think their warranty now is 90 days. And, I now see only one large compressor advertises? | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,006 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,006 | If you have a Lowes nearby, they sell a 5 HP 60 gallon unit (Campbell Hausfield pump) for about $550. Less than that HF compressor.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,006 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,006 | Tim It's actually the Kobalt branded one, but has a C-H pump on it the last time I looked at one. Kobalt Air Compressor 10.7 CFM at 175 psi. It's also $100 more than a friend bought one for. The $650 is an Alaska price so might be a bit less down in the Lower 48. (Yep, priced at $589 in KC). I think the $550 he paid was a sale price. BTW, HF's 20% off coupons exclude compressors, welders, etc. 
Last edited by klhansen; 10/14/2019 7:11 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 Bubba - Curmudgeon | | Bubba - Curmudgeon Joined: Sep 2001 Posts: 29,269 | Thanks very much, Kevin
Thanks also for the HF discount info.
That Kobalt unit looks good, but, my local store does not stock it. 3 year "limited" warranty (not clear on what)
they will not ship it to my store.
$589 less 5% discount for new charge account plus $79 for shipping/delivery (or, drive 50 miles to pick it up - I'll probably pick it up). plus $150 for an added 4 years of warranty
Last edited by tclederman; 10/14/2019 8:24 PM. Reason: updated and added information
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,440 | When you read HF’s fine print on the 20% off coupon all the cool stuff is exempt. No jacks, compressors, welders, etc.ðŸ›
Martin '62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress) '47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project) ‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily) ‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence) “I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one! Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop! USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,006 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,006 | You're welcome, Tim. I think you'll be happy with the compressor. My friend likes his. I wouldn't pop for the extra warranty, myself. Compressors are dirt simple, and unlikely to wear out/break on you within either the standard or extended warranty period. $150 down the toilet, IMO. But it's your choice.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | |
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