| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | |
1 members (baldeagle),
158
guests, and
2
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,110 Posts1,056,241 Members48,437 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 6 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 6 | Hello, I am in the process of installing a mustang II ifs. I was wondering if I need to put the cab on the frame to do this. I have a 41 Chevy truck. I have been told you should, to make sure it's squared. The install instructions don't mention this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks | | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 662 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 662 | Did you mark the frame for axle centerline before you tore it down? I didn't (just measured and screwed up) and wound up cutting out the IFS and moving it back 2". Not fun. If you haven't, I'd strongly suggest putting the cab and fenders in place and marking (drilled hole so you can't grind it off) where you want the centerline to be. http://www.chuckthetruck.homestead.com/page16.html | | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | Its not that you need the cab in place to make sure you get the suspension square. What you care about is that the suspension be square with the frame. You'll square the cab to the frame later.
The reason to put the cab and fenders on now would be to make sure the wheels end up sitting in the wheel well the way you want.
I'd suggest mocking up the truck, with the intended wheels and tires, sitting under the fenders. Make sure they are set at the correct track width, and then adjust the body up and down and the wheels fore and aft to get the look you want.
Verify that you'll still be able to turn and that there are no interference problems, and if all is well, mark the axle centerline and measure the height (frame above floor) so you'll be able to put the crossmember in the right place to get that look.
Its a lot more work than a couple paragraphs!
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 | Good advice from chuckthetruck.Mark your center line on the frame to make sure you wheels remain the same front to rear.I had good instructions when I put mine in.The proper measurments etc..On mine I measured back from the front of the frame,then did an X measurement to make sure it was square. Good luck | | |
|
|
| |
